06-07 V8 Spark Plug Issue - Change Them Early?

[Explorer_PL]

I run at least 5 to 10 tanks of sea foam prior to the job, but if you think about it and later you see that just the tip of the plug sticks out from the head, not sure it helped much.

[idgaf52]

Just finished changing plugs on my Mountaineer and it went OK. A couple of plugs squeeled pretty bad, but took my time, added some carb cleaner to a couple of bad ones and they came out ok. I put some nickel based anti-sieze on the plug shank per the ford TSB and hope this will help with removal the next time. The key to this operation is not to be hurried and not let this go more than 50 or 60 thousand miles without changing the plugs. I changed the plugs at 50,000 miles and they were gapped at about .075. I don't think these plugs will go 100,000 without some serious loss of performance. Maybe I'll use the Champions that allow you to adjust the gap the next time, and pull and regap after about 35,000 miles.

[jdc28va]

You guys quoting $400 or so for the dealer spark plug replacement... did that estimate include replacing the coils? I asked my dealer about this today when I was there for an oil change (I'm at 70,000 so this will be coming up soon), and he said the job was about $1500 because they recommend coil replacement along with spark plug replacement.

Also, why would a dealer charge extra for a broken plug? Ford designed and built the engine, designed or at least spec'd the spark plug, determined the maintenance interval, and the dealer broke the plug during a routine service. How is that OUR problem?

[feetwet]

Originally Posted by jdc28va

Also, why would a dealer charge extra for a broken plug? Ford designed and built the engine, designed or at least spec'd the spark plug, determined the maintenance interval, and the dealer broke the plug during a routine service. How is that OUR problem?

In principal that makes perfect sense, however the dealers are indepedant businessess, they are not FO-MO-CO. Who will pay the dealer's mechanic for the extra hours to deal with a broken plug.

[Explorer_PL]

My coils have 127k miles on them, no issues.

I have the same naive way of thinking: why should I pay extra $ 1000 if Ford screwed it up, but the mechanics need to get paid still. It's more between FoMoCo and dealers.

[EX-SV]

Good info here, but I think I will just get rid of my 07 Explorer V8 before it has 75K miles on it or so.

Sounds like another revenue stream for dealer service department, like radiators, wheel bearings, exhaust manifolds, blend doors, etc.

[bracksa]

Ok so my 06' 4.6 3v has 99,000 on it and I did the spark plugs today and did not break a one!!!! So here's how I did it so someone could benefit from this horrible job and only take you 1 hour to do the complete job!
First go and run a can of BG 44K injector and fuel system cleaner. This is only found in professional auto parts stores or shops. Run the complete tank of gas as far as you can make it. This has two benefits. First cleans your injectors and fuel system and secondly it removes a lot of carbon built on the SPARK PLUGS and upper cylinder head. After you do that, to perform the next part of the job, you need to let the vehicle sit over night. The engine needs to be COLD! Now you need a 3/8" air impact gun or electric. This is a must. However air is needed for the second part now. Use an air nozzle to blow away the dirt and debris from around the spark plug boot areas so none of that will fall done the spark plus well and into the motor. After you have done that now remove the electrical connector from the coil pack and the fuel injector. DO EACH CYLINDER ONE AT A TIME! This will prevent you from mixing up the connectors to different cylinders. Now take a 7mm socket and remove the bolt holding the coil pack. Pull up the coil pack and replace the electrode spring and boot on the coil. Save one old boot for later. I'll tell you later in the write up. Put dielectric grease on the end of the boot going to the spark plug. Take a 9/16", 6 point, deep well socket and use and extension with a long handle 3/8" ratchet and break the spark plug loose 1/4 turn. Be sure to stay straight on the plug or you will break the porcelain. Now take your impact gun and take it out the rest of the way. Take your old spark plug boot and push it down the tube of the loosen plug and pull it out. Out it comes!! No broken plugs and no wasted time! Replace with the OEM or equivalent spark plug. Replace the coil pack and tighten bolt. BAM! Your done! Move to the next cylinder and so on! Job is done in just about and hour. My theory on the impact gun is that it is breaking the carbon off as it impacts and it does not have time to build on the plug as it is coming out. When you use a ratchet the carbon binds and builds up on the plug and eventually breaks off in the head. Hope this helps! I got it from a tech who has been doing these for years!!

[Explorer_PL]

Interesting, I would be concerned about stripping the treads in the head with an impact gun. But good for you if it worked.

[TowingExplorer]

Originally Posted by bracksa

Ok so my 06' 4.6 3v has 99,000 on it and I did the spark plugs today and did not break a one!!!! So here's how I did it so someone could benefit from this horrible job and only take you 1 hour to do the complete job!
First go and run a can of BG 44K injector and fuel system cleaner. This is only found in professional auto parts stores or shops. Run the complete tank of gas as far as you can make it. This has two benefits. First cleans your injectors and fuel system and secondly it removes a lot of carbon built on the SPARK PLUGS and upper cylinder head. After you do that, to perform the next part of the job, you need to let the vehicle sit over night. The engine needs to be COLD! Now you need a 3/8" air impact gun or electric. This is a must. However air is needed for the second part now. Use an air nozzle to blow away the dirt and debris from around the spark plug boot areas so none of that will fall done the spark plus well and into the motor. After you have done that now remove the electrical connector from the coil pack and the fuel injector. DO EACH CYLINDER ONE AT A TIME! This will prevent you from mixing up the connectors to different cylinders. Now take a 7mm socket and remove the bolt holding the coil pack. Pull up the coil pack and replace the electrode spring and boot on the coil. Save one old boot for later. I'll tell you later in the write up. Put dielectric grease on the end of the boot going to the spark plug. Take a 9/16", 6 point, deep well socket and use and extension with a long handle 3/8" ratchet and break the spark plug loose 1/4 turn. Be sure to stay straight on the plug or you will break the porcelain. Now take your impact gun and take it out the rest of the way. Take your old spark plug boot and push it down the tube of the loosen plug and pull it out. Out it comes!! No broken plugs and no wasted time! Replace with the OEM or equivalent spark plug. Replace the coil pack and tighten bolt. BAM! Your done! Move to the next cylinder and so on! Job is done in just about and hour. My theory on the impact gun is that it is breaking the carbon off as it impacts and it does not have time to build on the plug as it is coming out. When you use a ratchet the carbon binds and builds up on the plug and eventually breaks off in the head. Hope this helps! I got it from a tech who has been doing these for years!!

For the BG44 K, did you run the can that you push in through a fuel line or the fuel tank additive or both?

I agree with this theory. My dealership actually refuse to change my plugs unless I pay for the very expensive fuel system cleaner instead. They said they require it because they rarely break any plugs after the cleaning.

If you can't feel the plug separate when removing them by hand, then I would say there is no harm in using an impact gun assuming the plug is actually moving. If the plug is completely frozen, don't turn the gun strength up. This also means don't use a 1000 ft/lb gun setting.

How much space is there under the hood for a gun? I haven't looked myself.

[bracksa]

Originally Posted by TowingExplorer

For the BG44 K, did you run the can that you push in through a fuel line or the fuel tank additive or both?

I agree with this theory. My dealership actually refuse to change my plugs unless I pay for the very expensive fuel system cleaner instead. They said they require it because they rarely break any plugs after the cleaning.

If you can't feel the plug separate when removing them by hand, then I would say there is no harm in using an impact gun assuming the plug is actually moving. If the plug is completely frozen, don't turn the gun strength up. This also means don't use a 1000 ft/lb gun setting.

How much space is there under the hood for a gun? I haven't looked myself.

I used the in tank stuff. Don't let that stuff get on your hands. Nasty stuff. Use a 3/8" air gun. More compact and less torque. Mine is a cheap one. About 200lbs of torque. So nothing with brute power and you will need it compact to get it in those tight spaces.

[TowingExplorer]

Thanks for the response bracksa.

I see some BG44K on eBay for about $24 shipped or less in quantity. Might pick a can up.

[pikinpu]

Thank you for all info submmited.

I have a 2006 Eddie Bauer. I was to take out the spark plugs, but they where so tight. In spite of that I took my torque wrench and dev¿cide to apply extra torque to untighting first spark plugs. The result was that the hex hed came out, but the spark plug axle is still on place (I mean, the remaining parts (terminal, ceramic insulator and ground electrode). That axle is stiky to the (lets say) spark plug sit. I'm imagine that the methalic part of the spark plug (just the cylinder attached tho the ground electrode is stiky to the sorrounding shell in the spark plug sit. I really don't know how to take out this spark plug axle without cause any damage to combustion chamber.

I'm attachig the picture of the hed hex that was taken out.
I really appreciate any help on this isuue.

Regards,

Pedro

Originally Posted by feetwet

Changed my plugs yesterday at 42k Miles. 3 out of 8 plugs broke. The Lisle tool worked flawlessly! Needed quite an assortment tools to complete the job! Lots of sizes of deep well sockets, air compressor, torque wrench, various socket extensions, long needle nose pliers, etc.

No real pattern to the plugs that broke... Front two on the left side, and back one on the right side.

Replaced with the new 1-piece Champion plugs.

Feel free to send me any questions.

[feetwet]

Yikes... you'll probably have to break off the top half of the plug and grind out some porcelain to enable the Lisle tool to do it's tricks.

[Explorer_PL]

Not sure what's left in the head from those pictures. You may have similar problem like I did where my plug sheared of right below the hex leaving the tread sleeve in the head. I had to drill the head and tap in an adapter. Can you post better picture what's left, and what came out ?

[Bill MacLeod]

I could be wrong, but looks like the thread part of the plug (hex head) broke from the electrode. Would it not be just the carbon holding the remainder of the plug in place?

Did you use any carb cleaner, WD40, etc prior to removing the plug?

[pikinpu]

Originally Posted by Explorer_PL

Not sure what's left in the head from those pictures. You may have similar problem like I did where my plug sheared of right below the hex leaving the tread sleeve in the head. I had to drill the head and tap in an adapter. Can you post better picture what's left, and what came out ?

In my case the thread sleeve is still in place but joined to the ceramic part and terminal.

[pikinpu]

Originally Posted by Bill MacLeod

I could be wrong, but looks like the thread part of the plug (hex head) broke from the electrode. Would it not be just the carbon holding the remainder of the plug in place?

Did you use any carb cleaner, WD40, etc prior to removing the plug?

I really have not used any carb cleaner. I'm thinking to apply it directly to the spark plug axle who left in.

By other side, I placed the head hex back to the spark plug axle and it is working normally, I mean the spark plug is working in spite of the head hex is not stiky to it. My guess is that the sleeve of the spark plug is attached to the sit by some methal oxide.

[pikinpu]

Originally Posted by feetwet

Yikes... you'll probably have to break off the top half of the plug and grind out some porcelain to enable the Lisle tool to do it's tricks.

Hi everybody,

I finally found a really good and exact explanation of the spark plug issue. Excellent video from Champion is located in youtube. See the link below. The issu was recognized by Ford in its TSB called PSB08-7-6. You could see it at http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-...g-removal.html

Champion Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoSh9O3XOho


Say hello to everybody.

[scurry57]

I just did the plugs in mine and only broke 1 out of the 8!. Id say i got pretty lucky there. The Lisle plug tool is the greatest tool ever made!. these plugs has right around 63k on them. I debated for a while on wether or not to change them hot or cold. A few people I know changed them hot and the TSB said do it room temp, I changed them cold, cracked them all loose and soaked em' with PB blaster for awhile and then worked them loose. One of them had been changed cause I had 7 motorcrafts and 1 autolite plugs in it. The autolite still had new white porcelain on it. I had the dealership change some coils on it before I bought it, they could have changed it then?

This whole plug swap Idea came about cause I had a faint low end misfire without a code when accelerating at like 45-55mph. After some extensive googling I ended up here in this thread learning about the amazing problem they had with the 3 valve. Its suprising it didnt run worse than it did since the gaps on some of the plugs was pretty large. I put some new E3.70 plugs in it. they were cheaper so i figured id give them a try. It fired right up, runs great and no more low end miss for now, well see how it goes once I get some miles on her.

[TowingExplorer]

Originally Posted by scurry57

I just did the plugs in mine and only broke 1 out of the 8!. Id say i got pretty lucky there. The Lisle plug tool is the greatest tool ever made!. these plugs has right around 63k on them. I debated for a while on wether or not to change them hot or cold. A few people I know changed them hot and the TSB said do it room temp, I changed them cold, cracked them all loose and soaked em' with PB blaster for awhile and then worked them loose. One of them had been changed cause I had 7 motorcrafts and 1 autolite plugs in it. The autolite still had new white porcelain on it. I had the dealership change some coils on it before I bought it, they could have changed it then?

This whole plug swap Idea came about cause I had a faint low end misfire without a code when accelerating at like 45-55mph. After some extensive googling I ended up here in this thread learning about the amazing problem they had with the 3 valve. Its suprising it didnt run worse than it did since the gaps on some of the plugs was pretty large. I put some new E3.70 plugs in it. they were cheaper so i figured id give them a try. It fired right up, runs great and no more low end miss for now, well see how it goes once I get some miles on her.

How long did you let them soak with the PB?