94' Explorer/Navajo - Fixing camber angle

[markfothebeast]

I recently dropped my truck a good 4-5" in the front and 3" in the rear. My camber angle is very obvious in the front. I'm wondering what pushes the front tire out. I'm not sure what those bars are called that have the bushing but it seems that may be related. A member mentioned an "eccentric bolt" but I'll have to do research to determine exactly what that is. Any ideas?

[markfothebeast]

Anyone? I just need to adjust my camber. Any way to adjust camber?

[Maniak]

When you lowered your truck, you lowered the outside end of the beams. Since only 1 side is lowered (pivot isn't moved) the end of the beam now has negative camber. You can adjust up to "around" 3 degrees of camber out using camber shims (they go around the upper ball joint).

If the lowering moved it more than 3 degrees you need different beams. They do make drop beams (I even have a set off a parts truck) which are designed for dropping the truck without messing the camber near as much.

~Mark

[markfothebeast]

I'm unfamiliar with the suspension setup on this type of vehicle. I did take a good look underneath. Do you have a link to where I can purchase these camber shims? I am not sure which part of the suspension is the "beam". I do know there is a black metal bar that angles back and there are two aluminum looking bars that are in parallel with each other going to each wheel.

[Maniak]

The short answer is, you need an alignment.

Depending on how you lowered it, it may not be alignable. What did you do to lower it that far?

Setting Camber yourself can be done, but you need special tools to measure the camber (like an SPC91000). Once you know how far off your camber is using that tool you can look at your current camber shims and replace them with the ones you need to get yourself aligned.

~Mark

[markfothebeast]

I cut the springs. If I can't align it I can always re-fabricate some of the components to lengthen/shorten. I looked up the camber kit and it's some sort of bushing that's adjustable. It looks like there may also be adjustable ball joints.

[94Gexplorer]

the bushings are for the raidus arms they mount right about in the front of the doors on the frame but you need the one for the balljoints

[Maniak]

If you lowered it by just cutting springs, and it went more the 2", there is no way your going to get it aligned.

They do make adjustable camber cams but they don't adjust as far as the non adjustable ones can go.

They do make Dropped I-beams that will fit the explorer. Those will let you drop it about 2-3" and still be alignable. Heck, I might still have access to a set off that parts truck that is at the neighbors. He was asking $125 for the pair.

This is what the cams look like that go around the upper ball joint.


~Mark

[markfothebeast]

My truck drop is far too low. But I will take the time and modify the I-beams to properly adjust the camber. I should be able to bend or weld the ends for the camber to angle at a different degree.

[markfothebeast]

I may have to cut a C-notch in the frame...That's how far my drop is. But it looks cool. I'll make it work. Everything takes time to do it right.

[markfothebeast]

[Spdrcer34]

Cut springs are DANGEROUS....

But your X looks good...

Ryan

[markfothebeast]

Before I took a look at cutting the springs I did come to the conclusion that on this particular I-Beam suspension the worst that could happen would be that the I-Beam would hit the frame stopper. That's it. You could drive this truck without the springs in it, which I have done for short distances. If it were a Ford Taurus it would split open your tire and possibly roll the vehicle over. The spring is seated very well and I trust that it will hold the vehicles weight just fine since it isn't 4x4 and it does not pull trailers.

Anyway, I have come up with a better solution that is free for me to fix the camber angle. I will need to heat the I-beam tips with a torch and bend them down evenly so that the wheel camber is proper. Depending on the outcome, I could do a little reinforcement welding to insure that it is safe. I will have to be precise with my angles.

[Spdrcer34]

I am glad you are NO WHERE near me....

You and your 'ideas' are dangerous.

Ryan

[FIND]

I won't be driving in the twin cities any time soon myself.

Springs aren't just for holding the vehicle up, and heating those parts to bend them is going to make them brittle. Oh well, its your truck, make sure you keep your insurance premiums paid.

It looks good, but why not just spend money and do it right?

[Nedwreck]

If the drop beams are ~$125-ish as mentioned previously... I'd definitely go that route. It would be a great time to freshen things up in the front, and I daresay this would be one fine handling and driving vehicle.

IIRC the front beams on my 2wd are cast, not stamped or forged.... heat at own risk! (!)

[Maniak]

New drop beams are $300+.. The set lying at the neighbors house is $125. If they aren't sold by the October auto swap meet he will take them there to sell them.

~Mark