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5r55s transmission problems, possible solenoid block?

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Old 12-05-2011, 09:09 PM   #1
Dmartin66
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CAN 5r55s transmission problems, possible solenoid block?

Hi all, I was on a long drive the other day (4 hr journey) when all of the sudden I felt/heard a clunk. Then realized the trans wouldnt shift into 5th, I was doing 100 km/hr at about 2200 rpm. I was in the middle of no where so I tried to take it easy and get home but eventually I lost 4th gear and the OD light came on with code p0775 ***only. Now the trans is slow to engage in first and reverse including manual first. It feel like the hydraulic pressure is delayed causing a slow engagement... The transmission is a ford reman with about 90,000 kms 70,000 ish miles. I know the solenoids were common in these. Should I put a solenoid block in it and see or should I take it to a transmission expert???? Any ideas??? I used to be a ford senior tech but transmissions were never my specialty. Thanks all!
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:13 PM   #2
Ronin8002
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Solenoid block could be part of it...though it could also be worn out servo bores. I'll have to look up some things and get back to you.




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Old 12-05-2011, 09:28 PM   #3
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Thanks ronin, that'd be great! I'm on the fence whether I should buy a solenoid block off eBay and put it in or just take it to a ford transmission tech.
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:05 AM   #4
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Well if you do buy one off Ebay don't get a "remanufactured" one...most of those seem to be bad parts being passed off as good ones. Look for one that is NEW. The mileage is about right to swap it out...might as well get it done...so look around for a new solenoid block. Here is a good writeup on replacement...but again, heed the cautions of getting a "reman" part...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...solenoid+block

So, after looking around it looks like your symptoms point pretty strongly towards worn servo bores. Basically with these transmissions the case is aluminum and the pins on the intermediate and OD servos feeds right through a bore in the case. Unfortunately those pins are made of steel so that starts to wear into the bore giving them more of an egg shape (though not always visible to the eye) and leading to pressure losses, slipping/burned bands, etc. One way to address it is to pull the trans and sleeve the servo bores with bronze inserts. I am not sure all places or dealerships do this as part of their standard rebuild.

The good news is there is a cheaper and easier way of fixing it.

Try this site:

http://www.fordservoboretransmission...com/index.html

Also, read the below link and see if that sounds like your problems:

http://www.fordservoboretransmission...m/history.html

It even has great instructions with photos on the site. I am getting ready to do this mod myself to head off any problems before they happen.

Anyway, get that done along with a band adjustment and you should be good to go.

Here's a thread on this forum with people who have already done it:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=313199




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Old 12-06-2011, 06:01 AM   #5
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P0775 is usually a broken overdrive servo piston. Usually 2nd and 5th will be soft or missing shifts.




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Old 12-06-2011, 06:24 PM   #6
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CAN

Thats about what's happening to me, except with the addition of no manual 1st 2nd and 3rd. But I have left it with a ford dealer to have a trans tech tell me what's wrong with it. Then I'll go from there.
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Old 01-29-2012, 11:24 PM   #7
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I was driving yesterday at about 70mph and got a loud clunk and quick shudder. The od light came on shortly after. No check engine light bit the od light is steady flashing. The truck seems to drive and shift fine. Maybe a bit sluggish.

Would this be the solenoid block as well????

Any help would be great fellas!!!
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Old 01-29-2012, 11:26 PM   #8
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Also, what's the band adjustment everyone keeps talking about??
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:37 AM   #9
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Been there, same symptoms...not an easy fix.

Check out this thread...it might help.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=341593

Michael
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:32 AM   #10
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Michael/LTCpipkin

Thanks for the reply. Just a quick question, after the solenoid block, did it fix your problems? I'll check the thread link out tonight when I get home. I am watching a new block on eBay and want to order it but if my symptoms were just like yours and it didn't fix it I'll save the money on a new tranny all together.

Thanks

Eric
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:38 PM   #11
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I replaced both the OD and IM Servos with the o-ring fix...still broken.

I replaced the Solenoid Block...still broken.

Invested $585 in parts and labor that I should have given the ATRA Tranny guy!! I think my subtle symptom difference was the dramatic CLUNK during the downshift from locked TC to 5th to 4th, etc. I never experienced any "slipping or flaring" symptoms. I couldn't check the resistance of the solenoid block thru the PMC 175B connector, so just got pissed and removed the old solenoid and tested on the kitchen table. All the values tested within range, but I was pissed and installed the new solenoid block anyway.

Recommend you not get frustrated as you work through this decision. It cost me money and time.

When I look back, I should have taken the "long term solution" route. I plan to keep this Explorer a while, so I should have just replaced the tranny with one that had the recommended bore fix using the brass sleeve. As successful as the o-ring fix has been for some folks here, I don't really have the time to replace the o-ring as they will eventually wear.

Good luck with your decision...
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:41 PM   #12
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Okay awesome and thanks for the response. I pulled the drain plug tonight and the fluid smells burnt. I will pull the pan and filter tomorrow I guess and see what I find.

Quick question for anyone out there; will I see any indicators in the pan to lead me one way or another. Obviously if I'm making metal or the torque converter is smoked I should see some sort of debri either way. But will there be any indicators of the solenoid block or valve body I should look for?

Thanks ahead of time.
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:35 AM   #13
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Yeah, I had all the same symptoms...including nasty, burnt fluid. Looking back, I guess I had a BIG indicator that I didn't understand at the time. I had the usual powder-like particles clinging to the pan magnet, but something suggested that I filter the fluid that I had drained. I found a single copper/brass colored flake of metal that my ATRA Transmission guy said was part of the OD Planetary. Once disassembled, that was my PRIMARY problem as see in this pics I posted in that link I gave you. Below is a pic of the flake I found that indicated burnt OD Planetary!!

http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...opperFlake.jpg

Michael
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Old 02-10-2012, 03:06 PM   #14
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Rebuilt Transmission

I just thought I would share my experiences. I have 72,000 miles on my 2007 Explorer Sport Trac. I bought it new. I drive with light and easy throttle inputs. I noticed a consistent drop-off in my gas mileage about two years ago. About 6 months ago ~68,000 miles I began to notice an occasional sluggish 2-3 upshift. Then I noticed an occasional pause when shifting into reverse of 2-3 seconds. So after about 6 months of this I began to notice I could deliberately cause the sluggish 2-3 upshift. Then I noticed a lagging downshift when turning a corner with a loss of ability to accelerate for about 1-2 seconds. This behavior really got my attention because essentially the only control I had was steering and braking which is an unsafe condition IMO. I took my Explorer to my trusted local Ford dealer and the transmission mechanic diagnosis read as follows:
Verified customers concerns and observations and "REMOVED TRANS DISASSEMBLED FOUND INTERMEDIATE SERVO BORE WORN REPAIR SERVO BORE O-HAULED TRANS REPLACED SHIFT SOLENOID PACK FLUSHED LINES AND COOLER RECAL PCM ROAD TESTED OK"
The parts replaced were as follows:
PISTON AND ROD - INTERMEDIATE
PISTON AND ROD OVERDRIVE SER
SOLENOID ASY
BAND ASY
SCREEN ASY
KIT - GASKET
FLUID TRANSMISSION
SERVO BORE REPAIR BUSHING
The total cost of parts was $808.23 and the labor was $1,706.55

I asked the service adviser about the contents of the material found in the pan and was told the mechanic did not detect an excessive amount of metal or clutch material which put me at ease. The vehicle shifts beautifully now - just like new. I got a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty with this repair. Yes, it was costly but a rebuilt transmission installed was quoted at $3,900. I feel confident this repair will take the transmission another 70,000 miles and probably more with the occasional transmission oil change which is not called for in the maintenance schedule until 100,000 miles. I would recommend, I don't know why I didn't follow my instincts, a transmission fluid and filter change every 20,000 miles. My belief is the original fluid lost its ability to properly lubricate as designed which then caused the bore wear problem. Of course, it could be a weak design problem but I'm inclined to go with my first reason - maybe a combination of the two might be closest to the truth.
As I stated earlier, I drive with a light throttle foot to get the best gas mileage. Two years ago I did transport about 10 high weight loads of building material 15 miles/load. IMO, this probably caused the problem to show up sooner but was not the cause the problem.
Anyway, I absolutely love the way the transmission shifts now and will continue to enjoy the vehicle for a few more years.
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Old 02-10-2012, 08:53 PM   #15
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All I'm in a simular situation. Im debating about buying a rebuilt trans from powersource usa for 2100 with a 3 yr 100,000 mile warranty or a rebuilt trans through ford for 2100 with a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:49 AM   #16
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Go with the better warranty - I put about 40K miles a years on my Ex, so the 3 yr, 100K would be my choice. But if you don't exceed 12K per year, then research thoroughly the details of each company's rebuild process!! I actually called the Customer Service for the two choices I had here in Richmond, VA....Moveras (Advance Auto) and Drive Power (Autozone). Both understood the problems with our 5R55S, both were about $1700 plus installation cost, both had a decent nationwide warranty, both required a 5 day build time plus 2-3 days shipping. I couldn't wait, so went to my local ATRA guy and have been pleased so far.

Good luck...
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:39 AM   #17
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I was about to order the moveras transmission from advance auto, with the 100 rebate it was going to be 1519 before tax. Then i called moveras and the tech support had to keep asking his supervisor for anwsers. I figured I just had a new tech person, so i looked them up on better buisness bureau. That's what seal the deal for me, they have an F rating due to problems with warranty. I also read another horror story where it took 6 weeks to get a replacement transmission. Moveras sounds good, there website looks good, but i wouldnt risk it.

Im leaning more towards powersource with the 100,000 mile warranty. Sine i put on about 30 to 40k a year.
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:10 PM   #18
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OK....my turn. Mine just went down yesterday! Same symptoms...same problems. SSDD. But...we can rebuild, we have the technology!! Just a little SixMillionDollarMan humor, there. Trying to keep my sense of humor with all this.

From what I've been reading for a while, now, it seems the "sealed" transmission, lack of regular fluid changes, and the servo bore wear, is a death knell for most, or ALL of these transmissions; the reason behind their failure. So, I would think that a bronze bushing in the servo bore, and regular fluid changes would be the best road to follow. But, I will ask of the remanufacturers, to see what they recommend. Obviously, if they have to warranty their work, they would have a recommended maintainance schedule for their products. I'll get back with a report on MY particular experience...when I can drive, again!!
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:52 AM   #19
ybugster
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US Transmission problem on my 02 Explorer XLT

Hello everyone. I'm looking for some advice for my 2002 Ford Explorer XLT. Was driving down the road the other day, stopped at a red light and when it turned green I drove about 200 feet and the drive went out of my SUV. I still have reverse and neutral but no drive and no drive 1,2, and 3. The transmission is a closed system and I also had the transmission re-built 2 years ago to date. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. I'm disabled and really cant shell out another $3000 to Ford to have it re-built again.. Thank you all in advance for your help. Matt
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Old 02-16-2014, 07:12 AM   #20
D Hook
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Any warranty left?




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