Control arm caster bolts?

steadyhand · 02-09-2012, 01:21 PM

I am putting on new balljoints, inner and outer tie rods, brake pads, shocks, and control arms.

My problem is on the driver side control arm. I have the new control in place, but I am having trouble getting the caster bolt back through the rear most part of the control arm bushing. There is what appears to be a fuel line in the way and I can't seem to move it.

It was pure luck the bolt ever came out.

My question is, can I put the bolt through the rear side of the bushing and the caster towards the front of the vehicle. It was opposite of this when I took it off, but I can't seem to get it back the way it was without possibly rupturing that fuel line.

This is the only thing holding me up.

I have tried it both ways and the rear part of the control arm doesn't appear to "adjust" like the front side does. So does it really matter which side the bolt goes through?

**Turdle** · 02-09-2012, 01:45 PM

Those are "camber bolts" not caster--the difference is huge.

You really should install an adjustable camber shim kit while you have it apart, as the factory ones do not allow much adjustment. You should put them in the way they came out for ease of alignment tool fitment.

drbenz · 02-09-2012, 02:42 PM

I've done a few of them, the rear bolt is as tight as old nick's hatband but it will go. Putting in an aftermarket adjustable bolt does make a lot of sense, it's easier and will allow adjustment.

*gmanpaint* · 02-09-2012, 06:14 PM

Those are the brake lines in the way. You can move them if they are giving you too much trouble. There are a few plastic xmas tree holders that can be removed, and the lines pushed back a bit for room to work.

I would replace those stock bolts with an aftermarket set that allow more camber degree adjustment. Moog makes a set sold at auto parts stores and can be found all over the net.

steadyhand · 02-09-2012, 09:07 PM

Thanks. I finally got them out. I did have to remove those plastic trees so I could move the line. If that bolt was a little shorter it could be put back in with no problem.

I'm also looking at that camber kit mentioned before. As I recall, there was a problem on a 97 Explorer I had before. I went to get an alignment and the mechanic said he couldn't align the passenger side wheel due to a limit in the camber adjuster, so instead of leaving one wheel slightly off he adjusted both the same so they would wear evenly with each other.

Bob 2000 Exp · 02-10-2012, 06:57 PM

I am replacing some of the suspension on my 2000 Sport this week. I bought the camber kits on ebay. The big washers move on the bolt, where as the stock washers do not move. They went on alot easier than trying to install the stock camber setup.

02-09-2012, 01:21 PM	#1
steadyhand Wannabe Elite Explorer Missouri 99 Mercury Mountaineer Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 80 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Control arm caster bolts? I am putting on new balljoints, inner and outer tie rods, brake pads, shocks, and control arms. My problem is on the driver side control arm. I have the new control in place, but I am having trouble getting the caster bolt back through the rear most part of the control arm bushing. There is what appears to be a fuel line in the way and I can't seem to move it. It was pure luck the bolt ever came out. My question is, can I put the bolt through the rear side of the bushing and the caster towards the front of the vehicle. It was opposite of this when I took it off, but I can't seem to get it back the way it was without possibly rupturing that fuel line. This is the only thing holding me up. I have tried it both ways and the rear part of the control arm doesn't appear to "adjust" like the front side does. So does it really matter which side the bolt goes through?

02-09-2012, 01:45 PM	#2
Turdle Old and in the way Humboldt, Kansas 2000 Mounty Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 23,785 Vehicle Specs	Those are "camber bolts" not caster--the difference is huge. You really should install an adjustable camber shim kit while you have it apart, as the factory ones do not allow much adjustment. You should put them in the way they came out for ease of alignment tool fitment. __________________ Jon 2000 Mountaineer Turdle-gone Vitamin D Wagon Sold also

02-09-2012, 06:14 PM	#4
gmanpaint Torsion Bar Free since 2010 94 XLT-95 FX4 Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 6,925 Vehicle Specs	Those are the brake lines in the way. You can move them if they are giving you too much trouble. There are a few plastic xmas tree holders that can be removed, and the lines pushed back a bit for room to work. I would replace those stock bolts with an aftermarket set that allow more camber degree adjustment. Moog makes a set sold at auto parts stores and can be found all over the net. __________________ The Black Hole Pugly

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02-09-2012, 02:42 PM	#3
drbenz Wannabe Elite Explorer High Point, NC 2000 EB 5.0 Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 187 Vehicle Specs	I've done a few of them, the rear bolt is as tight as old nick's hatband but it will go. Putting in an aftermarket adjustable bolt does make a lot of sense, it's easier and will allow adjustment.

02-09-2012, 09:07 PM	#5
steadyhand Wannabe Elite Explorer Missouri 99 Mercury Mountaineer Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 80 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Thanks. I finally got them out. I did have to remove those plastic trees so I could move the line. If that bolt was a little shorter it could be put back in with no problem. I'm also looking at that camber kit mentioned before. As I recall, there was a problem on a 97 Explorer I had before. I went to get an alignment and the mechanic said he couldn't align the passenger side wheel due to a limit in the camber adjuster, so instead of leaving one wheel slightly off he adjusted both the same so they would wear evenly with each other.

02-10-2012, 06:57 PM	#6
Bob 2000 Exp Wannabe Elite Explorer Bristol, Va 2000 Explorer, 95 Ranger Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 25 Vehicle Specs	I am replacing some of the suspension on my 2000 Sport this week. I bought the camber kits on ebay. The big washers move on the bolt, where as the stock washers do not move. They went on alot easier than trying to install the stock camber setup.