Who has dumped their ARC for regular shocks? Recommendations please...

[cloud2or3]

Originally Posted by swshawaii

Cloud- All the right parts in all the right places. Great upgrades!
Keep in mind when choosing shocks, larger sway bars will slightly
increase ride stiffness. If you've driven your Explorer for a while,
the handling improvement is astounding. Never seen a bad review.

What do you mean by 'stiffness' exactly? I would GREATLY welcome less body roll...

In terms of 'reviews' which part in my recipe are you referring to?

Thanks!

[cloud2or3]

Originally Posted by SoNic67

I have installed the Monroe fifth one (SC2958).
Supposedly has Full Displaced Valving (better valving range on both the compression and extension cycles) and Micro-Cellular Gas Design (allows unit to be mounted horizontally).
Now, Bilstein have two versions too of their shocks for our Explorer, like KYB.

Bilstein has two options? For the 5th shock? I havent seen 2 options on their site???

[cloud2or3]

Originally Posted by CDW6212R

I'd wait on the front sway bar for now, you are doing a bunch and it wouldn't hurt to leave that until last. Concentrate on tires, shocks, springs, and bushings for those items.

Didn't you say you had replaced the leaf springs? I ask because the ARC leafs are soft, and I know how poorly they do with any kind of load in the back. I'm planning to change leaf springs some day myself, that can be a big job.

Ive got 18" Rims with GENERAL Grabber UHP... Do the switchover this week.

For the rear, what are ALL the bushings I will need / you would recommend?

I bought new leaf springs from a local manufacturer for about $450... saved a TONNE buying direct. The install was easy, but I did take it to a mechanic friend of mine with a hoist in his garage. Probably took an hour all in. The hardest part was hammering out the old screws. Hoist helps, and supports for the axle from what I remember...

Hope that helps!

So, what are all the bushings???

[SoNic67]

Originally Posted by cloud2or3

Bilstein has two options? For the 5th shock? I havent seen 2 options on their site???

No, for the rear ones. 36mm and 46mm (normal and heavy duty). Didn't know that they have the fifth one too.

The fifth just controls the rear sway, I think it doesn't need to be monotube (or variable valving).

[swshawaii]

Originally Posted by cloud2or3

What do you mean by 'stiffness' exactly? I would GREATLY welcome less body roll...
In terms of 'reviews' which part in my recipe are you referring to? Thanks!

Maybe "stiffness" isn't the proper term. The larger bar won't flex as much,
giving you less articulation. That's the primary reason off road setups use
disconnects or remove the sway bars entirely. As for less body roll, that's
the biggest benefit with reduced bump steer. Regarding reviews, I was
referring to Addco or Explorer Express sway bars having a huge following.

[cloud2or3]

Originally Posted by SoNic67

No, for the rear ones. 36mm and 46mm (normal and heavy duty). Didn't know that they have the fifth one too.

The fifth just controls the rear sway, I think it doesn't need to be monotube (or variable valving).

That 36mm one is the 5th shock.

[1996BLKBauer]

I have had the sensa-traks on my Explorer for just over 2 weeks, and LOVE them. they really showed me how bad my old one where. no longer am I bouncing for seemingly ever after going over a bump.

[cloud2or3]

Originally Posted by 1996BLKBauer

I have had the sensa-traks on my Explorer for just over 2 weeks, and LOVE them. they really showed me how bad my old one where. no longer am I bouncing for seemingly ever after going over a bump.

Do you carry weight? Or is it typically just you in the truck? Most reviews i've seen say that they can be soft... perhaps 2 weeks isnt enough time to 'settle in'.

[CDW6212R]

Sway bars are usually only noticed or felt in corners, that's their purpose. So in normal driving where you contact any bumps equally left/right, the sway bars have no affect on ride etc. When you sometimes hit a bump with one tire alone, such as turning sharp into a parking lot that has a step up into it, the front suspension will feel stiffer for that moment that the one tire is forced upward, with a stiffer front bar. That is the only time you will notice a stiffer ride with bigger bar sizes, besides off roading as mentioned.

The Bilsteins are available in two versions, which differ in how stiff they are in each direction(jounce/rebound). I chose the one best for a lower vehicle, they resist down(jounce) more. That makes them feel a bit stiffer than the other version, but they are also less likely to bottom out(given the shorter travel available down). I would call these "strong" shocks, good and firm, and I have really never bottomed out with them. I've only used them for a couple of years, the truck is rarely driven since 2005, but I like them better than the Edelbrock IAS shocks I had.

[CDW6212R]

Originally Posted by cloud2or3

Ive got 18" Rims with GENERAL Grabber UHP... Do the switchover this week.

For the rear, what are ALL the bushings I will need / you would recommend?

I bought new leaf springs from a local manufacturer for about $450... saved a TONNE buying direct. The install was easy, but I did take it to a mechanic friend of mine with a hoist in his garage. Probably took an hour all in. The hardest part was hammering out the old screws. Hoist helps, and supports for the axle from what I remember...

Hope that helps!

So, what are all the bushings???

I had those tires last, in 265/60/18's, I didn't like them much. They didn't grip well in rain and didn't impress me for general handling. I chose them based on reviews for those things. Now I have Pirelli's, 255/60/18's, which are much better for me. I was impressed on one day when I found snow on the roads going to work 21 miles. I drove faster than I should have given snow, I was late, and it fortunately never slipped. I own dedicated snow wheels/tires for bad conditions.


If you did replace all of the front suspension, then you already took care of the bushings on the control arms. Those are the most important. The sway bar bushings are next to renew or stiffen up with urethane. I suggested waiting on the front bar because each bar takes a different frame bushing, plus the Addco bar needs a different frame bushing bracket than what they supply. It took me a while to get my preferred machine shop to make some for me.

[cloud2or3]

Originally Posted by CDW6212R

The Bilsteins are available in two versions, which differ in how stiff they are in each direction(jounce/rebound). I chose the one best for a lower vehicle, they resist down(jounce) more. That makes them feel a bit stiffer than the other version, but they are also less likely to bottom out(given the shorter travel available down).

ok, two references to a secondary option from bilstein. I need links to see these.

don, which ones exactly did you buy???

Are these 'heavier' options the B6 46mm? > With intended use for motor homes? Need clarity.....

When I visit the Essex Distributor site and enter the vehicle info (YEAR, MAKE, MODEL) I do get 2 options, but one is described as for use with a 2wd, the other with 4wd or awd.

http://www.bilsteincanada.com/

Heavy Duty Series (B36-2135-H0) Axle Wrap Rear (24-021357)
Heavy Duty Series (B46-2131-H0) 2wd Front (24-021319)
Heavy Duty Series (B46-2132-H0) 2wd Rear (24-021326)
Heavy Duty Series (B46-2133-H0) 4wd Front (24-021333)
Heavy Duty Series (B46-2134-H0) 4wd Rear (24-021340)

[cloud2or3]

Originally Posted by CDW6212R

I had those tires last, in 265/60/18's, I didn't like them much. They didn't grip well in rain and didn't impress me for general handling. I chose them based on reviews for those things. Now I have Pirelli's, 255/60/18's, which are much better for me.

If you did replace all of the front suspension, then you already took care of the bushings on the control arms. Those are the most important. The sway bar bushings are next to renew or stiffen up with urethane. I suggested waiting on the front bar because each bar takes a different frame bushing, plus the Addco bar needs a different frame bushing bracket than what they supply. It took me a while to get my preferred machine shop to make some for me.

I bought the tires for those same reasons, based on reviews, too. They seem to be fine for me. But I'll keep the Pirelli's in mind for next time. One one summer on the Generals so far, so it might be a while.

I'm certain we did the upper control arms. We did not 'replace' the lower control arms, but im certain we did replace the ball joint on them... hmmmmmm... have to check on that.

I actually do have a clunk on the front still under/near the drivers foot. Most times it sound like something is 'flexing'... like a snapple bottle cap... gives and pops back.

Anyone else have this issue?

[CDW6212R]

Oops, the tires, I mixed up what you have with my two trucks. I meant the 18's I had first on my Mountaineer, those were Yokohama G52's IIRC. I have the 245/70/16 General UHP's on my 99 truck, they are better than the Yokohamas were for grip. I wouldn't avoid the General tires, they are close to what reviews suggested I think. They aren't great in the rain, but not bad like I would describe the Yokohama tires I had.

[CDW6212R]

I had to call Bilstein to clarify which shocks were best for a lowered truck, the descriptions didn't help.

I still have one rear shock unused, because I couldn't remove one of the shock mounting bolts. I can check that box for the model number shortly, if it isn't visible below.

It isn't in this picture or others not re-sized. I have a bigger one that shows the RF shock, it's a 2133 for sure.

[CDW6212R]

Since you have a 1997 truck, check the torsion keys. From 1995-97, those had a kevlar wear pad built onto them. Those wear out, and result in a creaking or clunking. In 1998, the frame portion was revised and included an insulator device, similar to a large piece of urethane. Below shows my 1999 key and the insulator part above it.

[swshawaii]

Originally Posted by cloud2or3

I actually do have a clunk on the front still under/near the drivers foot. Most times it sound like something is 'flexing'... like a snapple bottle cap... gives and pops back. Anyone else have this issue?

Agree with Don, check your torsion key pads. Isn't this guy awesome?
Also check the #2 drivers side body mount. Better yet, check them all.

[1996BLKBauer]

Originally Posted by cloud2or3

Do you carry weight? Or is it typically just you in the truck? Most reviews i've seen say that they can be soft... perhaps 2 weeks isnt enough time to 'settle in'.

Right now I have 6 24 packs of water, and 2 12" subs, along with more misc. stuff. it has quite a bit of weight. Also cornering has gotten better too. like today after a run in with a road raged driver I made a corner at 45 mph, and the shocks held it up real nice, although, now I am thinking of a better sway bar.

[CDW6212R]

I discovered that something was worn out in my 99 truck going through a corner at 60mph+. It was scary that night, for a 45mph zone that is usually safe to do at 60mph. The back end hopped around badly. I don't usually push the truck, or trucks, but sometimes it's fun. The next day I discovered one rear end link bushing virtually gone, and the other side very loose.

Check the end link bushings regularly.

[cloud2or3]

Originally Posted by CDW6212R

The Bilsteins are available in two versions, which differ in how stiff they are in each direction(jounce/rebound). I chose the one best for a lower vehicle, they resist down(jounce) more.

Don is your vehicle lowered?

[CDW6212R]

Yes, I began with the EE kit($800 or so), which is 1.375" down in the back with the EE blocks. I later lowered it more in the front, just before buying new tires. I ended up a good 2" lower in front at least.

Not every Explorer is the same though, my 99 truck doesn't seem to be able to get as low. The front alignment didn't do well with it lowered like I wanted it, so it's a good bit higher than my 98. This 99 is a 4WD, not ARC, so it has stiff leaf springs. I added 1" lowering blocks to it and adjusted the ARC height sensor.