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I'm in DIRE NEED of HELP!! Please!!!

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Old 10-03-2012, 08:27 PM   #1
Augum
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Angry I'm in DIRE NEED of HELP!! Please!!!

Hi Everyone! I'm new here and I know nothing about fixing cars. I'll give you all the details and HOPEFULLY someone out there can help me.

My 1998 Ford Explorer - V8 - AWD - Eddie Bauer.... Needs new FUEL VAPOR HOSES. Here's the problem:

The hoses are discontinued by Ford. Based on my VIN, the two hoses that come up have the same part number: F67Z-9G271-DA

These hoses connect to the Vapor Management Valve (Part# F67Z-9C915-CA)

Found the hoses, bought them, gave them to the dealer/service to install. One hose has the right sized connector, the other does not. It turns out the second hose USED to have part number: F67Z-9G271-CA. The -CA number has a larger connector than the -DA number. When Ford discontinued the parts, they MERGED the 2 part numbers together to simply the -DA number.

I can find PLENTY of -DA hoses... but NO ONE ON PLANET EARTH has or recognizes the -CA number.

My SUV was originally from California (I'm now in Texas). I've tried contacting salvage parts (due to cash for clunkers) dealers, vintage parts dealers, every dealer that Ford Motor Company gave me (they're sorry for my trouble), and every other place I can find on the internet. My otherwise mint Explorer that I just spent $3k for other repairs on is now nothing more than a $3000 paperweight. I can't drive it for fear that the leaking fuel vapors into my engine compartment will ignite when the engine gets hot.

If ANYONE out there can help me find this part I would be forever grateful. My SUV has been in the dealer's service area for over 2 weeks until I finally gave up and had it towed home.

PLEASE HELP ME!!!!
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:35 PM   #2
Blee1099
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Doing a search on our of site supporters, Fastpartsnetwork, he shows that part with F67Z-9G271-CA available.

http://www.fastpartsnetwork.com
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:25 PM   #3
arco777
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You can't just use standard fuel vapor hose?

If your hoses have the fancy clip-on connectors on each end, sounds similar to the issue I had on an 06 Super Duty's damaged PCV hoses. I simply picked up standard rubber fuel vapor hose from my local parts store for under a dollar per foot. The clip on fittings are flared which works fine but I added hose clamps for good measure. Never had a problem. You can fix this yourself in a minute or two with no special tools, just a screwdriver.

Fuel vapor isn't under much pressure so it shouldn't be hard to rig up. Replaced all the damaged plastic evap lines on my 90 Mustang this way, using affordable fuel vapor rated hose, from tank to canister to intake.

EDIT: Looked up the part number and diagram you referred to. My above solution should work fine for your situation. Exact same situation as with my Super Duty.

The clip on hoses are simply an over-complicated version of a rubber-based hose with a hose clamp. More parts to fail and cost more, and in my opinion reduced durability. Classic case of something that wasn't broken, so Ford ''fixed'' it.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:21 AM   #4
Augum
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Talking Thank you so much!!!!

Blee1099 and Arco777 THANK YOU!!!!

I went to the link and the part does come up. I'm going to purchase and HOPE that it is TRULY the part I need.

If NOT... then going with Arco777 plan (although knowing nothing about cars will have to pass the info on to someone who does)

Hell, got to find someone who knows cars even if it IS the right part!

I am so grateful as I have been stranded for over 2 weeks with my hope diminishing more and more each day.

THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:17 AM   #5
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Looks like we go with Plan B

After finding the part on Fast Parts Network then adding the part to my shopping cart, I paused and decided to double check that they had the actual -CA part... this was the reply:

That is the only other one listed to fit the purge valve to engine and test port # F67Z9G271CA , and of course has been discontinued, and no one has it.

So, looks like Plan B... Hopefully when I show the post by Arco777 to someone that understands, they'll be able to implement it.

Slightly deflated, but still hopeful. I'll keep you posted!
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:03 PM   #6
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If you like I can take some pictures to show you what I'm talking about.




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Old 10-04-2012, 06:37 PM   #7
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Here's what I'm getting at, explained in pictures. You can do it yourself for under $10. It's easy!

1. Here is the factory hose I am using as an example. The one pictured is a PCV hose, but all these clip on hoses work pretty much the same, they are just shaped differently. Both ends have the clip on style connection.

2. Disconnect the ends by pushing the clip release tang and pulling on the connector. In the picture my thumb is pushing the clip's release tang, which sticks out. Notice the fitting it was connected to is just a normal nipple style fitting, with a ridge on it that the clip holds on to so that it won't slide off.

3. Pictured is a chunk of rubber tubing, available at any auto parts store for cheap. They have this stuff on rolls and sell it by the foot, usually for under $2. There are different varieties for the different fluids or vapors the hose will be carrying. Just ask for fuel vapor hose, in your case. Also, the inner diameter of this tubing varies. You want to get the right size that is a snug slip-on fit onto the fitting (nipple). If you bring your factory hose, they can probably match it up. It does not have to be perfect, just close enough.
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Last edited by arco777; 10-04-2012 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:42 PM   #8
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4. Estimate the length of hose you will need. A little extra is better than cutting it too short. You can cut the rubber hose with anything good and sharp. Scissors, serrated kitchen knife, razor blade (carefully), whatever.

5. The new hose just slips onto the fitting. It may be a snug fit requiring you to lubricate the fitting with a little water or spit - that's good. If it fits on too loosely, it could leak. You can slide it on past the ridge if you want, for extra hold strength, but in my example, the hose was too tight to go over the ridge. No big deal as long as you have the fitting inserted as far as you are able into the hose.

6. If you want to add an extra measure of protection to keep the hose from slipping off, you can buy a hose clamp. They come in different sizes to fit different diameters of hose. See the next picture...
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:45 PM   #9
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7. The hose clamp simply slides over the hose to where you want it, and then tighten it down. Don't tighten it too much because it might break the fitting. Just tighten it enough that it squishes into the rubber hose a tiny bit.

8. On the other end, you do the same thing. Just slip the rubber hose on. Add a hose clamp if you want.

9. You are done! In the example picture I used a much longer piece of hose than was necessary. But it would work fine. You won't hurt anything by making your hose a little too long.

Any questions? This is something you could easily do yourself. Took me less than 5 minutes.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:32 PM   #10
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Thank YOU SO MUCH!!!!

I can't tell you how much I appreciate the detailed instructions and the pictures!! My sister has a friend who's husband knows a bit about car repairs. This will no doubt be very helpful to him!!

When the dealer service tech was showing me where my hose issues are, they were unfortunately buried about 6-8 inches below the battery. I could barely see the 'valve?' with the 2 hoses coming off. They disappeared down below something. I'm not even sure if you have to approach from the top or bottom to get to it. I WISH it was as easy as your photos!! Then maybe I COULD do it myself!

Anyway... VERY GRATEFUL for your help with this!! I'll get this post to him tomorrow and hopefully we can 'get er dun'!

I'll update you as soon as I have news! THANKS AGAIN!!!!
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:08 PM   #11
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I no longer own a $3000 paper weight!!!!

Thanks to you here with the great Step by Step with photos... Andy (my sister's friend), my car is NOW FIXED!!!

It took about an hour because the battery, battery housing and a few other tweaks... but it's fixed, no check engine light... so far so good. I'll take her for a drive tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed.

THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!!
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:35 PM   #12
phxcoyote27
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Similar problem

I seem to have the same problem with my 2000 Explorer V8. Didn't know if I should start a new thread or try to jump on this one...a year and half later.

Check engine light came on and mechanic got code PO442 (small EVAP leak). He smoked the system and found that the evap test port line is leaking. The part hasn't been made for years and I cannot find it anywhere on the web (the part shows everywhere as "no longer made" and out of stock) and neither could the mechanic. I want to replace it per the detailed example provided by arco777, but it is a lot more tricky than the example.

I removed the battery and the battery tray, which must be done to access the VMV and all the hoses. Snapped a picture (below).



The light blue arrow points to the VMV body. The green arrow (off to the right) points to the end of the test port line. The yellow arrow points to the upper port on the VMV (to which one hose is connected). The red arrow points to the lower port on the VMV (to which two hoses are connected). The test port hose is one of the hoses connected to the lower port of the VMV.

First question: is there some trick to disconnecting the hoses from the VMV? There is a very brittle piece of plastic that may help keep it in place. Even with that out of the way (it broke as I was attempting to compress it), the hose doesn't slide off the VMV even with a fair amount of pressure and a lot of wiggling. I am afraid I am going to break the VMV if I apply further pressure to the hose/coupling. Not sure how hard that is expected to be to remove.

Second question: since the leak is on the test port hose, there really is no second connection on the hose. The test port itself is the second connection. Would you expect someone (me) to be able wiggle or twist the test port itself off/out of the existing hose and then be able to successfully insert it into the new hose? It looks like it is inserted a couple inches into the tube and it appears to be extremely tight...light a machine performed this job originally.

Third question: as may or may not be obvious from the photo, the test port hose is contained in some sort of corrugated plastic sleeve presumably to keep it from hot engine parts or kinking. Any worries that the replacement hose doesn't (or wouldn't) have this?

Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions you might have.
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:58 PM   #13
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In regards to your second question.

The hose tubing will not want to come off the ports/nipples easily; chances are you will break the fitting if you try to get the hose off. I think it is heatshrinked on.

What I did on a similar situation, was I used an X-acto knife to split the tubing lengthwise where it encircles the fitting. I split it all the way down allowing it to relax its grip on the fitting, spread it apart, then pulled it off the fitting. At that point you could cut off the tubing flush and bridge the gap with a chunk of (fuel vapor safe) rubber hose, or replace the whole tube with rubber hose like I did.




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-1995 Bronco Eddie Bauer - 5.8L, exhaust and trans mods
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