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2000 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC Life expectancy

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Old 01-06-2013, 05:26 PM   #1
mthurmerm
Benton, Tennessee
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US 2000 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC Life expectancy

I bought a used 2000 Explorer XLT with the infamous 4.0 SOHC Motor. I have had 5 Rangers, all with 4.0 OHV engines. All gave great service, lacking in the fuel mileage dept.
When I bought the Explorer, (With 175,000 Miles on it) I went in without doing my homework (Can't beleive I did not check) and did not know of the problems the SOHC had. When I test drove it and picked it up from a Ford Dealer, the engine was warm and really ran great. The very next day, I had a really bad cold start idle, jumping and such. Took it to a friend of mine who is a Ford Tech, had to have all new Intake O-Rings put in.
He also told me all about the timing chain issues. Bottom Line, It was mine and I had to deal with it. I noticed probably 6 months later, rattling when I first started, maybe 5-10 seconds, then it quieted down.
I have driven now to 198,000 miles. It still has the rattle for about 5 seconds on a cold start, besides that, does great. I guess my main concern, how many miles can be expected for the life of the SOHC, On Average.
I know, it could blow tomorrow, but I guess I need some encouragement. I have never owned a vehicle with 200,000 miles on it.
The Explorer is really a nice vehicle, Leather interior, cold air, great appearance.

Everybody look into the crystal ball !> Thanks
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:32 PM   #2
Peck
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honesly bud with that many miles i can bet the timming chains have already been changed out
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:25 PM   #3
albi1cnobi1
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The rattle at cold start is the hydraulic chain tensioners.Not a big deal, there is a TSB for them. I can't recall the number for it but it is an easy fix. I have the SOHC in my mounty with 220k, bought it new and changed the oil every 3k. If taken care of hopefully you'll get a long life out it.




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TT/Warrior Shackles/Add-a-leaf, 2" BL, 32x11.5/15 BFG A/T's, Rancho 5000's, Supplemental HHO Generator(out for cell redesign), Electric Fan Conversion, AVM Manual Lockout Hubs, Dual Battery System, Gibson cat back. EATC Mod. BW1354 swap. My 4405 To 1354 Swap Thread Support your own economy, Buy American, all of our jobs depend on it.
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:34 PM   #4
kevinspann
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I would have had the hydraulic tensioners replaced, at least the front one when the intake was off. And had the 00M12 or whatever TSB checked for/done.

What oil filter do you use? One with an anti-drainback valve would be preferable.




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Old 01-20-2013, 11:36 AM   #5
mthurmerm
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Thanks everybody, Yesterday My Brother in Law and I put a rear driveshaft , replaced both ujoints. FYI That thing was vibrating to me in the front I would have bet $ 100 it was the front Driveshaft, but it was the rear drive shaft, One Ujoint, one end had not a single needle bearing in it. That was comforting when I was running down I-75 going to Chattanooga at 80 MPH, Good Lord sure was watching over me Also they were original non lubricating, The SOHC runs so good I can't give up on it....Mitch
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:39 AM   #6
mthurmerm
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Also I am going to have to save my money and replace the Headlight lenses and the marker lights around them, rough shape. By the way that stuff the sold on TV to clear the lenses did not work..Remember, "But Wait, there's more" \
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:21 PM   #7
koda2000
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if it only rattles for a few seconds at start-up, replacing the hydrualic tentioners with the 00M12 kit will most likely solve the problem. the tensioners (there are 2) springs seem to weaken after about 75K and typically need replacement. my SOHC '01 xlt is approching 185K and it rattles horribly at start-up, and sounds like a diesel when running, but it's been doing that since i bought it almost 2 years ago showing 129K on the speedo (no idea what the real mileage is as it has a salvaged title). i've since learned my lesson and have purchased 2 more gen II's (both V8's) which i'm super happy with.

also: always use a quality oil filter (like Motorcraft or Wix) with an anti-drain back valve.




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Old 01-20-2013, 03:17 PM   #8
albi1cnobi1
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Originally Posted by mthurmerm View Post
Also I am going to have to save my money and replace the Headlight lenses and the marker lights around them, rough shape. By the way that stuff the sold on TV to clear the lenses did not work..Remember, "But Wait, there's more" \
I replaced the headlight assemblies on my mounty with replacements from rockauto. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...586&cc=1363980 They were $23.79 each. Good quality for the money.




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99 Mountaineer 4.0 SOHC.
TT/Warrior Shackles/Add-a-leaf, 2" BL, 32x11.5/15 BFG A/T's, Rancho 5000's, Supplemental HHO Generator(out for cell redesign), Electric Fan Conversion, AVM Manual Lockout Hubs, Dual Battery System, Gibson cat back. EATC Mod. BW1354 swap. My 4405 To 1354 Swap Thread Support your own economy, Buy American, all of our jobs depend on it.
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:43 PM   #9
koda2000
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Originally Posted by albi1cnobi1 View Post
I replaced the headlight assemblies on my mounty with replacements from rockauto. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...586&cc=1363980 They were $23.79 each. Good quality for the money.
+1 on replacing the headlight assemblies. don't waste your time (and money) trying to restore them. and members can get 5% off at RockAuto by using a discount code.




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2001 Explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0L V8 2WD
2000 Mountaineer 5.0L 2WD/2000 Expl XLT 5.0L 2WD
2000 Mountaineer 5.0L V8 AWD
2001 Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC V6 auto 2WD (RIP 5/13)
1997 Explorer Sport 4.0L SOHC V6 auto 2WD
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:03 AM   #10
mthurmerm
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Koda 2000, don' we have to pull the engine to even replace the tensioner, It has got to be a terrible piece of work, thanks, mitch
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:35 AM   #11
albi1cnobi1
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Koda 2000, don' we have to pull the engine to even replace the tensioner, It has got to be a terrible piece of work, thanks, mitch
I think what koda is talking about is the hydraulic tensioners not the cassettes or chains, which the rear cassette does require the engine to be pulled. The tensioners are mounted externally, one in the front for the right cassette and one in the back for the left cassette.

Check out this thread. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=271605 It shows the procedure for replacing the tensioners. Don't worry about the stuff about the timing chains, he was doing his chains too.




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99 Mountaineer 4.0 SOHC.
TT/Warrior Shackles/Add-a-leaf, 2" BL, 32x11.5/15 BFG A/T's, Rancho 5000's, Supplemental HHO Generator(out for cell redesign), Electric Fan Conversion, AVM Manual Lockout Hubs, Dual Battery System, Gibson cat back. EATC Mod. BW1354 swap. My 4405 To 1354 Swap Thread Support your own economy, Buy American, all of our jobs depend on it.

Last edited by albi1cnobi1; 01-21-2013 at 10:41 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:03 PM   #12
koda2000
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As stated, you don't have to pull the engine to just change the HYDRAULIC tensioners, or the front chain guide (if you're doing that too). some have even managed to change the front cassette without removing the engine.




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I reject your reality & substitute my own...
2001 Explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0L V8 2WD
2000 Mountaineer 5.0L 2WD/2000 Expl XLT 5.0L 2WD
2000 Mountaineer 5.0L V8 AWD
2001 Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC V6 auto 2WD (RIP 5/13)
1997 Explorer Sport 4.0L SOHC V6 auto 2WD
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:17 AM   #13
masospaghetti
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Instead of buying new headlights, use 1500 grit sandpaper, wetsand, you will see the yellow melt away, then use an orbital buffer and plastic polish to restore their clarity. Follow with headlight UV protector.

I've done this on a bunch of vehicles and works great. Slight upfront investment but IMO well worth it.




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2000 Sport, 4.0 OHV, 5M, RWD, 174,000 miles
1996 XLT, 5.0, 4A, AWD, 156,000 miles
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