Rear Sway Bar Quick Disconnects - By CBoug76 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Rear Sway Bar Quick Disconnects - By CBoug76

Parts used:

Qd8.jpg


2 3/16" Lynch Pins
Dia (A) (B)
3/16" 1 9/16" 1 1/4"

2 3/8-16 1/2" Dia Shoulder Screws

4 1/2" Stainless Steel Washers .132" thick

Qd1.jpg



I just made some Quick Disconnects for my rear sway bar. They were easy to make. I found
at my work some Shoulder screws, they just happen to have a 1/2" diamerter should and be
about 2.5" long, and on the end they had about 1/2 more of 3/8" thread.
Here is what I did:

1) I took out the stock bolts. (some force will be needed.)
2) Drilled out the sway bar holes with a 1/2" drill bit.(the hole is not a perfect hole,
almost like they made the hole when they cast the sway bar.)
3) Test fitted the bolts, with a little grease they went thru the sway bar and bushing with
no problem. You should have 1 washer on the bolt before you put it thru the sway bar, and
then put the 2nd washer on the bolt after it is thru the sway bar.
4) Next, I had to drill a hole in the bolt so that I could put the Lynch Pinn in it. Mark
the bolt with a marker of a pencil where the Lynch pin would go thru the bolt while it
is up against the washer. I used a 3/16" Drill bit, making sure to go Straight thru the
bolt.
5) Now you can stop here or if you want you can round over the end of the shoulder screw so
that it helps to line everything up as it is inserted in the hole. You also might want to
do this to the Lynch Pins too.

Qd6.jpg


Rounded End Pin


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Qd10.jpg


The First picture had a pointed end, the second picture has a square end, this is how they come when you purchase them.


Qd7.jpg


Threaded End Pin


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Here is the Quick Disconnect with all its parts put together. (Shown is the Pin with Threaded on the end)


Qd4.jpg


In this picture you see a Wing Nut and a Plate on the Threaded portion of the pin, If Some wanted a "Back-up" for the Lynch Pin, This is what you could do.


Qd5.jpg


Here is The Driver's Side Quick Disconnect Pin before I rounded the end off, The Pass. Side is Identical, with the obvious exception that everything is mirrored.


I Noticed that when I go to put the quick disconnects back in, it is easier to insert the
Pass Side before the Drivers Side.


Any Questions, just e-mail me or post here.
 



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when you disconnect your sway bar, what do you do with it? do you take it completely off, or strap it to the chassis? if you just strap it down, do you have a pic of how you do it? thanks, and great idea!!
 






Blu, I have not figured out what to do with the Sway bar yet. I have only Disconnected it once, and I let it swing free, but after hearing what happened to others that have done this, I will tie mine up next time. How, I am not sure but I will look into this this weekend......
 












Thou I haven't looked closely at the front, I believe the front has 3 Main parts: a Long Bolt, a Hollow tube/Spacer, & the Nut for the bolt along with the Rubber bushings. Now you could do this with the Bolt but It might be kind of hard to get out. One thing you could do would be to Re-Engineer it to work. Like this:
Take the hollow tube and get 2 bolts that will fit inside of it, and drill some holes in the Tube for a Pin to go thru. then drill coresponding holes in the bolts and then you'd be all set! This Might be something I can tackle when the Temperature goes up.........
 






That method always seems like a good idea but...... in the long run it will not work.
The quick pin just can't hold enough
tension on the bolt (now a pin) and the metal sleeve/bushing to keep it
rigid, soon the bolt/pin starts to **** back and forth with each cycle of the suspension making a lot of noise and loses effectiveness to sway dampen.
The internal sleeve/bushing and bolt have be squeezed together to the mount to remain rigid and in plane. The quick pin will not add tension (squeeze) to the bolt like the nut will.
 






Are you talking about the Idea that was talked about for the Front or My Rear Sway Bar Quick Disconnects?
 






Chris have you figured out what to do with the rear swaybar when you have it disconnected?
 












Just thought I'd toss my .02 in too. I made up some rear disconnects out of 303SST in the machine shop at work. Since I took the pix, I changed the OD of the midshaft from .75" to .600". At .75" it was just too tight. At .600" it's a nice snug fit into the bushing. I also cut the large diameter down from .500" thick to .250" thick, and added a delrin washer so the bar wouldn't rattle. I don't have the drawing handy, but if anyone wants it, e-mail me and I'll send it to ya.
 

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Here are two more shots of the results: The one on the left is the sway bar disconnect installed, and the one on the right is the articulation (Floor jack under frame) i got in the garage. The rear suspension has stock springs, Warrior shackles, stock length Gabriel VST's with a 2" extender between them and the frame. NOTE!!! If you use shock extenders, toss the bolts that come with the kit and buy grade 8. I busted the first bolt putting them on with just a short 3/8" drive socket wrench!!!

I also had to bend the brake line support bracket down about 2" so that I wouldn't stress the brake lines at full extension.
 

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Nope :p !!



At this point, it just hangs there. I push the two frame brackets up and out of the way next to the spare, but the sway bar holds it's original position. I though of using a bungee to keep it from dropping down, but haven't taken a look at it yet. I moved it around quite a bit, and it doesn't seem to have any positions where it will get hung up on anything. I think the only position it might give me problems is if the ends point straight down and I come down on something.
 






That looks good JD. I used Chris's idea a long time ago and i just run a bungy cord on the drivers side over the frame, seems to work alright. What do the shock extenders do for you? More articulation? If so, i'm buying a set! The more the better, especailly with a locker! Looks great!

Happy trails!!
 






Jot017, the shock extenders insure that the shock does not overextend and get damaged. It also makes sure that I do get as much droop as I can.

Here's a pix of it flexing on the trail. I can probably flex more since there was still weight on the wheel :D
 

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So where do i find a set of these babies? Might have to order me some!

Happy trails!!
 






I designed 'em and made 'em myself at the machine shop at work. I'd like to produce them for others, but work would frown on it.:( Lemme see if I can get a local shop to do something for me.

Unless you're talking about the extenders. They came from A&A auto (A Pennsylvania parts chain). The mfg is Superior, and they sold for about $15 a pair.
 






Chris, is there any way to fab some front sway bar disconnects. i already disconencted my rear sway bars and am going to make your quick disconnects but i might use different pins and do it like this
Dead Link Removed. thanks for the mod.
 






Originally posted by 99EXP
Chris, is there any way to fab some front sway bar disconnects. i already disconencted my rear sway bars and am going to make your quick disconnects but i might use different pins and do it like this
Dead Link Removed. thanks for the mod.

Yeah those will work, as long as you use washers's. They are basically what I have, but mine are a little stronger..... I would still use the "Lynch" pins, since they Can-not come out unless they break.....
 



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Chris, where did you get the shoulder screws? i cant not find them. then again i just had a chance to look at a small hardware shop.
 






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