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Abs, traction control, and wrench light on after new brakes

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Old 07-16-2013, 08:38 PM   #1
sohcmike
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Abs, traction control, and wrench light on after new brakes

I just bought a 2006 Explorer and i just replaced the front rotors and all of the brake pads this evening. I took it out for a test drive and when i was on the way home the 3 lights came on. I pulled into the garage and shut it off and turned it back on and just the abs light came.
It was acting a little funny while i was driving. It felt like it kept downshifting and upshifting.
Its been fine up until now. What should i check?
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:57 PM   #2
polizi212
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when you did the brake job did you bang up or cause any damage to the black wire coming from the bearing on the front hub! sounds like you might have! That is the sensor for the front hub! your going to have to go get the codes read to determine which side is the issue.
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:43 AM   #3
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Thanks. I was careful to support everything while i was changing the rotors and calibers but its possible. Could it be a caliper problem when i pushed the pistons back in? I used a long screw driver between the pad and the rotor and opened the bleeder screw to relieve the pressure on the fronts, while it was still mounted. I used a c-clamp on the rear.
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:07 AM   #4
polizi212
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I did the front brakes on my truck and I just used a block of aluminum and a c-clamp to compress the caliper. I don't open the bleeders! call around to some of your local auto zones or advance auto stores and see if any has a code reader that can read ABS codes! Get the codes and then you will know for sure whats up!
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:59 AM   #5
Flag Gibby
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If you didn't bleed the brakes after you were done then you have air in the system from opening the bleeder screw and you need to get it out.
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Old 07-17-2013, 12:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flag Gibby View Post
If you didn't bleed the brakes after you were done then you have air in the system from opening the bleeder screw and you need to get it out.

^^^^^^this is why I do not crack the bleeder open unless I absolutely
have to!
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:03 AM   #7
sohcmike
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I bled the brakes this morning. No change. I can't even get it out of the driveway to get it to AutoZone to read the codes.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:23 AM   #8
Flag Gibby
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One of the ABS sensors got knocked loose in order for something like that to be happening... completely turn off the RSC system and you should be able to drive it ok up to 25 mph. I am thinking that it is one of the sensors on the rear since those are the easiest to knock out of alignment or cause the connector to come apart.
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:07 PM   #9
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Thanks. I will check that next. I turned the RSC off this morning but the brakes were still grabbing.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:58 AM   #10
Flag Gibby
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It sounds like you only turned the traction control function off, but not the ABS too. Hold the RSC button down for about 5 sec., I believe, to turn both the traction control and ABS off.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:26 PM   #11
wharriso
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Make sure your battery is good. A weak battery can trip the ABS indicator (not sure why, but it has happened to me).




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Old 07-22-2013, 07:40 AM   #12
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I held the RSC button down for 5-10 seconds and it started blinking. The ABS light never went off. I will look further this evening. The battery is new.
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:26 AM   #13
Flag Gibby
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Yes, but were you able to drive it at that point without the brakes kicking in and out at speeds less than 25mph? If so then the problem is with an abs sensor or tone ring.
Edit: If you have the V8 motor, there have been reports here of the front bearings going bad and having so much slop in them that the system can no longer pick up the signal from the tone rings and the only fix is to replace the front bearings/hubs. Being that the problem started after you did the rotors/brakes on the front it is a possibility, but you really need to get the DTC pulled to pinpoint the problem.
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Old 07-22-2013, 11:18 AM   #14
polizi212
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Flag gibby, It was suggested he have the code read back on the 16th. At this point that is the most vital thing to do!
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:16 PM   #15
Flag Gibby
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Polizi, I agree and that is why I was mentioning it again since it has been almost a week and still no mention of a code. Plus, I was trying to help him get it so he can limp it to autozone to get the codes pulled.
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:20 PM   #16
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I'm with you guys but the autozone is 15 miles away and i don't want to do any damage.

Something else. When i push the brake pedal when its not running, i have good pedal. When i start it and push, it goes almost straight to the floor but then i can pump them up. I put a clear tube on the bleeder when i open them and i'm not getting any air bubbles. The hubs feel tight.

I'm going to see if i can get someone to make a house call.
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:00 AM   #17
96743explorer
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anytime your brake pedal goes to the floor when it is depressed, means you have air in the lines somewhere.
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Old 07-23-2013, 02:26 AM   #18
Nasty Nuggets
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Sounds like a bad bearing/abs sensor. If the bearing breaks it throw the sensor off and is undrivable. Jack Ur front end up and see if either side has play from 12 to 6. If it rocks, replace that hub/ bearing assy. Flush Ur brake lines and get all the air out.
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Old 07-23-2013, 04:46 AM   #19
Ornery
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Several years ago (maybe a decade, I can't remember), I had to replace brake lines on my '94 Town Car. No matter how many times I bled it, or whatever method I used, I could not get all the air out. Found out the bleeding has to be done at the dealer, hooked up to a computer, that goes through some kind of routine to get the air out of the ABS system. Didn't bother. Been living with a spongy pedal all these years. A couple years ago, the ABS light came on. Covered it with tape. Not sure why, but the pedal firmed up recently, and ABS light is still on.

I have no idea if the Explorer needs this "computer bleeding" procedure, but it would be good to know.

Edit: After a little research, I found that a fancy bleeding tool will not be required if the master cylinder is not allowed to go empty. That was probably my issue. Hope it ain't yours!

Last edited by Ornery; 07-23-2013 at 05:00 AM.
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Old 07-23-2013, 06:27 PM   #20
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Bled the brakes again. Bled each wheel at least ten times. Never saw one air bubble. I have good pedal until i start it, at which point it goes to the floor.
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