4R55E Band adjusting

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1992fordgreen

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Inside the Rehabilitation Center

Year, Model & Trim Level

95 SC400 92 SC400 96 Ex

• August 27, 2013

• #1

I did see the DIY by Glacier and the other guy, but I still don't have a full understanding on how it is done.

Firstly, am I adjusting the intermidiate band, or the OD band?
The Explorer slippes while the shift occurs from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd but nothing else at all.

Secondly, where is this adjusting bolt located on the transmission? I assume it's underneath the shifter, but I'm still not sure.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

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1992fordgreen

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• August 27, 2013

• #2

Any advice is appreciated!

 

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1992fordgreen

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• August 29, 2013

• #3

I need some help on this! PopRichie?

 

JK080

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Gen 1 6.2 Roush Raptor

• August 29, 2013

• #4

The band adjustment bolts are on the driverside of the transmission, the one toward the back is for the intermediate band and the one in the front is for the overdrive band.

Loosen the 3/4 jam nut and turn in the square adjustment bolt until it tightens, then back it out 2 full turns, hold in place and tighten the jam nut.

The jam nut will want to turn when turning the adjustment bolt, you are just going to have to figure a way to keep it from interfering with adjusting the bolts when doing this.

 

BrooklynBay

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• August 29, 2013

• #5

It's a good idea to spray the nut with PB Blaster or WD-40 to help break it loose before you turn it. Recently, a member tried to turn his adjusting stud, and it snapped off because it had rust between the nut & stud.

 

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1992fordgreen

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• August 30, 2013

• #6

Ok, this does help me, thank you. The od adjustment bolt is under the shifter? Also, the intermidiate adjustment bolt should be used when (after rebuild) the 2 and 3 gear slips. That's what my ex is doing.

 

BrooklynBay

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• August 30, 2013

• #7

 

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1992fordgreen

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• August 30, 2013

• #8

Thank you!!

 

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1992fordgreen

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• September 7, 2013

• #9

so I dont get how this can be exact enough to make the trans shift nicely.
As JK said, loosen the 3/4 nut then while holding the nut tighten the stud in till it's tight, then, back up 1 1/2 turns full rotations back then tighten the nut snug. How is this going to be exact enough?
I'm scared to drive the Ex fearing it might be to tight and the band will break.

 

BrooklynBay

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• September 7, 2013

• #10

Turn the stud 2 turns back after adjusting it with a 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench.

 

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1992fordgreen

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• September 7, 2013

• #11

Ok, so i do hafta use a torque wrench. And this would be set to 10 FT ILBS, correct?

 

BrooklynBay

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• September 7, 2013

• #12

Use an In/Lb torque wrench instead of a Ft/Lb torque wrench. It's more sensitive in the low torque range.

 

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1992fordgreen

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• September 8, 2013

• #13

OK, i'll have to buy one then. Thnx.

 

BrooklynBay

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• September 8, 2013

• #14

Harbor Freight runs sales on them plus they have coupons. You could get a 1/4" In/Lb torque wrench for around $10.

 

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1992fordgreen

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• September 8, 2013

• #15

BrooklynBay said:

Harbor Freight runs sales on them plus they have coupons. You could get a 1/4" In/Lb torque wrench for around $10.

Click to expand...

Lol, I use their coupons a lot. $10 bucks is cheaper then I thought...thanx for the info.

 

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1992fordgreen

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• September 8, 2013

• #16

I forgot, also, it seems the stud is so rusted that it wont go far enough in...but again, we'll have to see. BTW, how do you torque it when ithas no socket to fit on it? It's a square.

 

BrooklynBay

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• September 8, 2013

• #17

There are several sockets that fit such as a 6 point (somebody suggested an 8 point in my other thread but I've never seen one), 12 point, and an inverted Torx (female star bit). Check my thread on band adjustment.

 

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1992fordgreen

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• September 9, 2013

• #18

Ok, I will, thanks.

 

BrooklynBay

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• September 9, 2013

• #19

Spline drive sockets should work too.

 

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1992fordgreen

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• September 9, 2013

• #20

Also I mentoined the rust issue...the stud wont allow it to screw in all of the way. How far does it need to go or is that max?