4.0 SOHC Supercharger Kit - 02-05 Sport Tracs/2dr Sports | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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4.0 SOHC Supercharger Kit - 02-05 Sport Tracs/2dr Sports

moddbox

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Joined
October 16, 2013
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City, State
Lake Country, BC
Year, Model & Trim Level
05Ranger08B400001Ranger..
Ok. So there are alot of great "how to" guides on here... but I haven't seen a complete and thorough "how to" supercharger install for the 4.0L SOHC engine (specifically for Ford Ranger/2dr Explorer/Sport Trac & B4000).

So... here it goes. If you obtain a Moddbox Installation kit and any Eaton M90 supercharger (89-95 either style inlet), just follow the following instructions and you're good to go. No tune required. 100% bolt-on mod. You can get your installation kit here:
http://modd.me/

I've also decided to post the "final result" first. If you like it.. proceed to read the "how to".

Here's a road test of the 3.5 psi pulley equipped with no cooling equipment installed.


Here's the Dyno. 215 hp & 237 lbft at the rear wheels.


Kit Photo:
FINAL-W-SUPERCHARGER-750.jpg


Installed Photos:
moddbox001-490x368.jpg


moddbox002-490x366.jpg



**ps. Apologies for some linked & odd sized photos... resizing them all for the embedding options is alot of work for this many photos. For a more uniform reading experience, click here:
http://modd.me/4-0l-v6-cologne-supercharger-kit-install/
If you have any questions comments, feel free to comment or PM me :)


INSTALLATION NOTES

You must read the instruction manual at least 2 times prior to proceeding.

It is important to familiarize yourself with the ModdBox Supercharger Kit installation. It is the responsibility of the installer to properly install the Supercharger Kit. For your safety and the asurety of a proper installation, ModdBox recommends that this product only be installed by a qualified professional, access to pneumatic tools, and a strong familiarity with automotive service procedures.

91 or higher octane gasoline is required at all times.

You must use fuel of 91 octane or higher. If your vehicle does not running 91 or higher octane, you must run your vehicle till empty and refill with the required octane at least 2 times prior to installation.

Any previously installed aftermarket tuning equipment must be removed and the vehicle returned to an as stock condition before installing the supercharger.

Any equipment that directly modifies the fuel mixture or ignition timing of the engine can cause severe engine damage if used in conjunction with ModdBox Supercharger Kit. This includes, but is not limited to: ignition boxes, air/fuel controllers, OBDII programmers, and any other device that modifies signals to and/or from the ECU. Aftermarket bolt-on equipment such as underdrive pulleys or air intake kits will also conflict with the operation of the supercharger and must be removed prior to installation. Use of any of these products with the ModdBox Supercharger Kit could result in severe engine damage.


REFERENCE ABBREVIATIONS

EGR – Exhaust Gas Recirculation

HVAC – Heating Ventilation & Air Conditioning

IAC – Idle Air Control

MAF – Mass Air Flow

TPS – Throttle Position Sensor

Vac - Vacuum


TOOLS REQUIRED

Tools Required:
Standard metric socket set
Needle Nose Pliers
T-30 Torx Bit
Fluid Funnel
Flat Head Screw Driver
Punch
...will add more soon

STOCK REFERENCE DIAGRAMS

Stock Throttle Cable Reference Diagram
4LV6CologneInstall-1.jpg


Stock EGR System Reference Diagram
4LV6CologneInstall-2.jpg


Stock Intake Manifold Reference Diagram
4LV6CologneInstall-3.jpg


Stock Air Box Reference Diagram
4LV6CologneInstall-4.jpg


Stock Throttle Reference Diagram
4LV6CologneInstall-5.jpg


Belt Diagram Reference Diagram (Dark Belt Showing the ModdBox Orientation)
4LV6CologneInstall-6.jpg


MODDBOX SUPERCHARGER KIT PARTS

ModdBox Supercharger Bypass Valve
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/CAM04401.jpg

ModdBox 255lph Fuel Pump
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/Moddbox255lph.jpg

ModdBox Heat Shield
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/heatShield.jpg

ModdBox 70mm Air Filter
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/GreyAirFilter.jpg

ModdBox Throttle Cable and Cruise Control Mount
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/4LV6CologneInstall-7.jpg

ModdBox 3.0 & 3.5 psi Supercharger Pulleys
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/CAM04371.jpg

ModdBox Supercharger Pulley Quick Adapter
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/AdapterPully.jpg

ModdBox Plenum Bottom Plate
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/4LV6CologneInstall-9.jpg

ModdBox Plenum Top Plate
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/4LV6CologneInstall-10.jpg

ModdBox Intake Manifold
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/4LV6CologneInstall-11.jpg

ModdBox Intake Manifold Top
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/4LV6CologneInstall-12.jpg

ModdBox M22-1.5mm EGR Extension
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/CAM04413.jpg

Black Silicone Liquid Gasket
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/CAM04389.jpg

6pk Serpentine Belt
http://modd.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/6pkBelt.jpg

1/4" Electrical Loom

16 ga wire & connections

Heater Hose

Fuel Hose

Hardware and Fittings


INSTALLATION STEPS

Remove the negative battery cable (1 bolt). Secure it to the side of the battery to prevent any accidental contact with the negative terminal.
4LV6CologneInstall-13.jpg



Remove the Throttle Body Cover (2 bolts). If your model is equipped with a second Crank Case Ventilation hose, you will be required to remove the hose clips on the side of the Throttle Body Cover (not shown here).
4LV6CologneInstall-14.jpg


Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the Intake Tube from the Stock Air Box Assembly.
4LV6CologneInstall-15.jpg


Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the Intake Tube from the Throttle Body.
4LV6CologneInstall-16.jpg


Disconnect the Crank Case Vent Hose(s) and remove the Intake Tube. Set the Intake Tube aside for later use. Some models have a second Crank Case Vent Hose. For more information, see the Stock Setup Diagrams provided at the beginning of this instruction manual.
4LV6CologneInstall-17.jpg


Remove the Brake Booster Line from the back of the Intake Manifold. Tape and label if necessary.
4LV6CologneInstall-18.jpg


Unplug the cable connected to the IAC Valve.
4LV6CologneInstall-19.jpg


Unbolt and remove the IAC Valve (2 bolts). Set the IAC Valve aside for later use.
4LV6CologneInstall-20.jpg


Unplug the Vac line connected to the EGR. Tape and label the Vac Line if necessary.
4LV6CologneInstall-21.jpg


Unbolt the EGR Valve (2 – 12mm bolts).
4LV6CologneInstall-22.jpg


Remove EGR Valve by disconnecting the EGR Tube. Set the EGR Valve aside for later use.
4LV6CologneInstall-23.jpg


Unplug the TPS Sensor. Tape and label the plug if necessary.
4LV6CologneInstall-24.jpg


Remove the Throttle Cable from the Throttle Body Valve. The cable can be slipped free by manually actuating the valve 90 degrees and providing slack in the cable.
4LV6CologneInstall-25.jpg


Unbolt the Throttle Body Valve (4 bolts). Set the Throttle Body Valve aside for later use.
4LV6CologneInstall-26.jpg


Disconnect the Throttle Cable and the Cruise Control Cable.
4LV6CologneInstall-27.jpg


Disconnect the electrical wire mount from the left side of the Intake Manifold.
4LV6CologneInstall-28.jpg


Locate the plastic Radiator Rock Shield located underneath the engine bay. Remove the bolts and set it aside.
4LV6CologneInstall-29.jpg


Locate the plastic Radiator Drain Valve at the bottom passenger side of the Radiator. Turn this plug and release only approximately a 3/4 gallon of coolant fluid (~3L). This is to allow the removal and relocation of coolant lines in the proceeding steps.
4LV6CologneInstall-30.jpg


Remove the HVAC Heater Hoses (2x 1/4” diameter) and the Intake Manifold Engine Vac Line (5/8” diameter) from the Hose Connector Fitting. Tape and label the hoses if necessary.
4LV6CologneInstall-31.jpg


Remove the Hose Connector Fitting. Set the Hose Connector Fitting aside for later use.
4LV6CologneInstall-32.jpg


Locate the 1 5/8” diameter Radiator to Thermostat Coolant Hose.
4LV6CologneInstall-33.jpg


Relocate the Coolant Hose to be in front of the Oil Cap and around the AC Line as illustrated. Cut approximately 5” to 6” off of the hose and re-secure it to the radiator.
4LV6CologneInstall-34.jpg


Be sure the hose will not conflict with the belt. If not equipped with AC, secure the hose with restraining straps if necessary. Do not dispose of the 1 5/8” hose. The remaining hose will be needed in a later step.
4LV6CologneInstall-35.jpg


Remove the Fuel Injection Vac Line located on the right side of the Intake Manifold. Tape and label it if necessary.
4LV6CologneInstall-36.jpg


Pry off the Ignition Wire Mount located at the top of the Intake Manifold.
4LV6CologneInstall-37.jpg


Unbolt the Ignition Wire Flange Mount.
4LV6CologneInstall-38.jpg


With the Ignition Wire Flange Mount disconnected from the Intake Manifold, proceed to pry the Ignition Wire Flange Mount approximately 2 inches toward the driver side. This additional clearance will aid in the removal of the stock Intake Manifold as well as providing ample space for the future EGR Valve.
4LV6CologneInstall-39.jpg


Unbolt the Vacuum Regulator (2 bolts) located towards the front drivers side of the Intake Manifold.
4LV6CologneInstall-40.jpg


Remove the Fuel Vapor Return Line. This fitting is equipped with a simple push-style fitting. Simply push in the large curved shape and the fitting should pull off.
4LV6CologneInstall-41.jpg


Remove the Throttle Cable and Cruise Control Cable Mount (2-bolts).
4LV6CologneInstall-42.jpg


Loosen the Intake Manifold Bolts (12 – T30 Torx bolts). Note that these bolts do not remove completely. Once turned out of the Engine Block, the bolts remain connected to the Intake Manifold. Caution: You do not want to strip these bolts. It is advisable to inspect the Torx heads and use a vacuum to remove any dirt that may have accumulated inside the head. It may be necessary to use a machinist scribe or similar pointed object to loosen and vacuum out any dirt that may be residing inside the Torx heads before attempting to remove.
4LV6CologneInstall-43.jpg


Lift out the Intake Manifold.
4LV6CologneInstall-44.jpg


Caution: Do not drop anything into the Intake Ports. Before Proceeding, fill the Intake Ports with rags or paper towel. Clean and vacuum the area if necessary. Be sure to clean the Engine Block’s mating faces.
4LV6CologneInstall-45.jpg


You are now ready to being modding your 4.0L J

Obtain the provided ModdBox stainless steel Supercharger Pulley Adaptor. Slip the supercharger Adapter onto your Eaton M90 Supercharger shaft until it binds (either an 89-93 oval or 94-95 rectangular style M90). The pulley is designed to have an interference fit which will cause the pulley to jam once it slips halfway onto the shaft. Use the stock Eaton M90 Supercharger lock nut to ratchet the pulley down the remaining length of the shaft until the Adapter hits the stop on the shaft. You may also want to use a press if you have one available. It is recommended that you use a low torque setting on an air or electric hammer-ratchet to suck the pulley down to the stop. If you do not have an automatic ratchet, you may carefully use a piece of soft lumber to stop the motion of the supercharger rotors. This will allow you to ratchet down the supercharger lock nut with a standard ratchet. Caution: Be sure that no debris falls into your Eaton M90 Supercharger. The tolerances on your supercharger are only a few thousandths of an inch and may be damaged if material falls or gets sucked into the supercharger housing. Even rotating the rotors by hand can often pull enough air to suck debris into the rotors. Use a vacuum to clear your rotors prior to installation.
<photo coming soon>

Obtain the provided ModdBox 6PK Custom Pulley and slip it onto the Supercharger Pulley Adaptor. Use the provided M5x16mm socket head cap screws.
<photo coming soon>

Locate the provided Black Liquid Gasket. Apply a thin bead of the gasket to the Eaton M90 Supercharger flange as illustrated.
4LV6CologneInstall-46.jpg


Obtain the ModdBox Plenum Top Plate and bolt it to the base of the Eaton M90 Supercharger & Pulley Assembly. Use the provided M8x40mm socket head cap screws. Clean any excess gasket material.
4LV6CologneInstall-47.jpg


Use the extra 1 5/8” diameter Radiator Hose that was remaining from a previous step. Measure out and cut a length of hose as is required for your supercharger:
For the 94’-95’ Eaton M90 Supercharger (rectangular inlet): 1-7/8”
For the 89’-93’ Eaton M90 Supercharger (oval inlet): 2-5/8”
Use one of the 2” stainless hose clamps to secure the hose to the Plenum Top Plate. Loosely place the other 2” diameter stainless hose clamp on the hose. Place the entire assembly aside for later use.
4LV6CologneInstall-48.jpg


Obtain the ModdBox Plenum Base Plate. Apply a small bead of the provided Black Liquid Gasket around each Intake Port hole as shown.
4LV6CologneInstall-49.jpg


Caution! The Plenum Base Plate is NOT reversible. Before placing the Plenum Base Plate on the Engine Block, be sure the wider ridge dimension (shown below) is placed at the back of the engine bay towards the firewall. If this is reversed, your supercharger pulley will not line up with your other engine pulleys.
Optional: If you have purchased a ModdBox Intercooler Kit, remove the 1/4”NPT plugs and replace them with the provided 1/4”NPT hose fittings. Refer to the ModdBox Intercooler Kit Installation Manual for further instructions.
4LV6CologneInstall-50.jpg


Place the Plenum Base Plate onto the Engine Block in the correct orientation (shown in the previous step). Align the Inlet Ports with the Plenum Bottom Plate holes. Use the supplied M6x30mm socket head cap screws and loosely bolt down the Plenum Base Plate to the Engine Block (you will need to verify the alignment of the supercharger pulley before tightening the bolts).
4LV6CologneInstall-51.jpg


Place and align the Eaton M90 Supercharger and Plenum Top Plate Assembly onto the Plenum Base Plate. Visually inspect the alignment of the supercharger pulley and the other engine pulleys. A miss-alignment of approximately 1/16” is acceptable due to the length of pulley to the adjacent pulleys and the lack of ribs on the idler pulley. If the alignment of your pulley is more than approximately 1/16”, you can fine tune the alignment of the Plenum Base Plate. Simply adjust the Plenum Bottom Plate as required (they are fitted with slotted holes) and torque it down to the Engine Block.
Locate the HVAC Heater Hoses (2x 1/4” diameter) that were removed from the Hose Connector Fitting and the Intake Manifold in a previous step. The hoses need to be reconnected to the Hose Connector Fitting in a new location approximately 3” above the rear-passenger side Inlet Port on the engine block (Inlet Port to combustion chamber). Review the illustration below for reference.
4LV6CologneInstall-52.jpg


Cut the 1/4” diameter HVAC Heater Hose that originates from near the firewall. Be sure to leave at least a few extra inches to allow room for error. Reconnect the 1/4? diameter hose to the Hose Connector Fitting. Note: You can connect to either 1/4? barb on the fitting.
4LV6CologneInstall-53.jpg


4LV6CologneInstall-54.jpg


The Intake Manifold Engine Vac line (the 5/8” diameter hose that was connected to the Hose Connector Fitting and Intake Manifold) will need to be shortened and re-connected to the Hose Connector Fitting. This 5/8” Vac line consists of rubber hose AND plastic rigid tube that runs around behind the Intake Manifold. The plastic section of this line running along the firewall needs to be cut at approximately the centerline of the Intake Manifold. Reference the photo below and proceed to cut the 5/8” plastic tube. Use the provided piece of 5/8” hose (9” length) and connect one end to the 5/8” plastic line and the other to the Hose Connector Fitting. Secure both ends of the hose with a hose clamp.
4LV6CologneInstall-55.jpg


4LV6CologneInstall-56.jpg


4LV6CologneInstall-57.jpg

(Note: the second 1/4? hose shown will be described in the next step)

Locate the remaining 1/4” diameter HVAC Heater Hose (it originates from in behind the alternator as illustrated). Remove and replace this hose with the provided 1/4” hose (24” long). Connect the other hose end to the Hose Connector Fitting. Secure both hoses with hose clamps.
4LV6CologneInstall-58.jpg


4LV6CologneInstall-59.jpg


Remove the rags or paper towels in your Engine Inlet Ports then proceed with the installation of the Supercharger Assembly. Apply a thin bead of Black Liquid Gasket along the Plenum Base Plate (already aligned and bolted to the Engine Block). Caution: Be sure to apply gasket material around all the bolt holes (as illustrated in the photo below). The gasket material must be extended to the inside edge of the mating face as shown on the bottom-left of the photo below. Failure to do so will result in a leak in your Intake Manifold Assembly.
4LV6CologneInstall-60.jpg

(Note: Engine rags/paper towels removed from engine ports prior to installing Plenum Top Plate)

Obtain the Eaton M90 Supercharger Assembly (already assembled in a previous step). Place the assembly onto the Plenum Base Plate and bolt it down with the provided M6x30mm flange bolts. Caution: Do not drop anything into the 1 5/8” hose on the Plenum Top Plate. Debris may fall into your Engine Inlet Ports. Place a small rag or paper towel into the hose to make sure nothing falls in (make sure the rag does not fall in).
4LV6CologneInstall-61.jpg


Optional Step. The provided 1/4”NPT and 1/8”NPT ports have been included for the installation of a Boost Sensor and Manifold Temperature Sensor. If you have a purchased monitoring equipment from ModdBox (or a third-party), it is advisable to install the necessary fittings now. Once the Intake Manifold is installed, these ports are less accessible and some disassembly may be required.
Obtain the ModdBox Intake Manifold (the hollow “C” shaped CNC part). Use the provided M5x16mm socket head cap screws and bolt the Supercharger Bypass Valve to the ModdBox Intake Manifold.
4LV6CologneInstall-62.jpg


Connect the Supercharger Bypass Valve Vacuum Hose to the ModdBox Intake Manifold and the Valve Actuator.
4LV6CologneInstall-63.jpg

4LV6CologneInstall-64.jpg

(Note: Ignore the 1 5/8” hose, it should be connected to the Plenum Base Plate)
Install the ModdBox Cruise Control/Throttle Cable Mount to the Moddbox Intake Manifold. Use the provided M6x12mm socket head cap screws. Note: For models with newer throttle cables, the mount can be aligned with the base (factory offset). However, older models vehicles should be setback approximately 1/8” to 1/4” back to compensate for the creep (stretching) in the throttle cable.
4LV6CologneInstall-65.jpg


Install the stock IAC Valve on to the ModdBox Intake Manifold using the M6x12mm socket head cap screws.
4LV6CologneInstall-66.jpg


Optional Step. A 1/8”NPT port has been provided for a Water/Methanol Injection Nozzle. If you have purchased a ModdBox Water/Methanol Injection Kit (or a third party kit), it is advisable to install the necessary fittings now. Once the Intake Manifold is installed, these ports are less accessible and some disassembly may be required.
4LV6CologneInstall-67.jpg


Proceed with the ModdBox Intake Manifold installation by adjusting the illustrated hoses as described below.
4LV6CologneInstall-68.jpg


4LV6CologneInstall-69.jpg


Clear the future Throttle Cable and Cruise Control Cable location of any loose hose, ignition cables, electrical wires, fittings, etc. Be sure to fasten these components securely and away from the action of the throttle body. Caution: Failure to keep this area clear could result in your throttle sticking open! Be sure this area is kept clear and that all components in the engine bay are kept secure.
4LV6CologneInstall-70.jpg


Note the orientation of the Hose Connector fitting in relationship to the ModdBox Intake Manifold.
4LV6CologneInstall-71.jpg


Take the ModdBox Intake Manifold Assembly and connect the Hose Connector (already connected to two 1/4? hoses and one 5/8” hose) using the M5x10mm socket head cap screws.
4LV6CologneInstall-72.jpg


Locate the Stock Throttle Cable and Cruise Control Cable (if equipped). Connect the cables to the ModdBox Cable Mount as illustrated. Snap-in the Throttle Cable to the slot on the passenger side. The Cruise Control Cable must be snapped into the driver side slot.
4LV6CologneInstall-73.jpg

(Note: Contrary to the photo, it’s easier to bolt on the Throttle Body after the assembly is bolted to the supercharger)

Locate your Throttle Position Sensor Plug and Idle Air Control Valve Plug.
4LV6CologneInstall-74.jpg


Carefully expose the wires from the plastic guard and electrical tape.
4LV6CologneInstall-75.jpg


Take the Idle Air Control Valve Plug Wire and cut it approximately 3” from the plug end. Splice in approximately 3’ of wire to extend the wire to the new IAC location and plug it in. Use the provided tie-downs to secure the wire away from any moving parts. Caution: Make sure you do not reverse the polarity of the wires.
4LV6CologneInstall-76.jpg


Apply the supplied Liquid Gasket to the ModdBox Intake Manifold as illustrated.
4LV6CologneInstall-77.jpg


Line up the 1 5/8” Supercharger Bypass Hose and press the assembly down. Secure the 2” Hose Clamp to the Supercharger Bypass Valve. Caution: Do not drop anything into the Supercharger Bypass opening in the Plenum Top Plate. It may fall into an engine inlet port which could cause damage to your engine. Remove any rag or paper towel that you may have placed in the tube.
4LV6CologneInstall-78.jpg

(Note: It may be easiest to have the tube connected to the Plenum Top Plate as suggested earlier)

Bolt down the ModdBox Intake Manifold Assembly to the back of the supercharger using the provided M8x25mm socket head caps screws.
4LV6CologneInstall-79.jpg

4LV6CologneInstall-80.jpg



Bolt the Stock Throttle Body onto the the Intake Manifold as shown using the provided M6x16mm socket head caps screws.
4LV6CologneInstall-81.jpg



Locate the TPS plug wire and cut it approximately 3” from the plug end. Splice in approximately 3’ of wire to extend the wire to the new IAC location and plug it in. Use the provided 1/4" loom and tie-downs to secure the wire away from any moving parts. Caution: Make sure you do not reverse the polarity of the wires.
4LV6CologneInstall-82.jpg

4LV6CologneInstall-83.jpg


Place a thin bead of Black Liquid Gasket on the ModdBox Intake Manifold’s mating face as illustrated.
4LV6CologneInstall-84.jpg



Place and bolt up the ModdBox Intake Manifold Cover with the provided M6x12mm socket head cap screws.
4LV6CologneInstall-85.jpg



Locate and connect the Brake Booster Hose to the provided 3/8” barb located on the back driver side of the ModdBox Intake Manifold.
4LV6CologneInstall-86.jpg



Locate the Fuel Injection Vac Line and connect it to the 3/8” barb located beside the Supercharger Bypass Valve.
4LV6CologneInstall-87.jpg


4LV6CologneInstall-88.jpg


Locate the Fuel Vapor Return Line. Cut off the press fit connection and reconnect it to the remaining 3/8” barb on the ModdBox Intake Manifold. Secure the hoses with the provided hose clamps.
4LV6CologneInstall-89.jpg


4LV6CologneInstall-90.jpg


Locate the Stock EGR Valve. Connect the valve to the provided Stainless Steel EGR Extension.
4LV6CologneInstall-91.jpg


Use the provided M8x25mm bolts and secure the EGR Valve to the ModdBox Intake Manifold as illustrated.
4LV6CologneInstall-92.jpg


Reconnect the EGR Vac Line.
4LV6CologneInstall-93.jpg


Use the provided 5/8” hose (16” long) and connect one end to the Crank Case Ventilation Tube. The Stock Crank Case Ventilation Tube can be removed by pressing the plastic spring release on the end of the fitting.
4LV6CologneInstall-94.jpg


Connect the other end of the Crank Case Vent Hose to the Stock Intake Tube. Secure both ends with a hose clamp.
4LV6CologneInstall-95.jpg


Remove your vehicle’s Stock Airbox Assembly (see stock diagrams for more details). Use a saw to cut the Stock MAF Tube approximately 1” in front of the MAF mount. Re-connect the MAF tube to the Stock Intake Tube. Plug the MAF back into the electrical socket. See illustration below.
4LV6CologneInstall-96.jpg

(Note: Some models will be equipped with a flange between the airbox and the MAF)

Connect the downstream side of the Stock Intake Tube to the Throttle Body. Secure both hose clamps.
4LV6CologneInstall-97.jpg


Optional. Your oil cap is easily accessible but it will rub against the stock Intake Tube when you perform maintenance. Although this is minor, you may want to extend the oil cap. Did you know your oil cap has already been extended upwards with a 2.5” extension? You may want to buy an additional extension to raise it up another 2.5” to clear the Intake Tube. See illustration below.
4LV6CologneInstall-98.jpg

(Optional Ford Part #: ML5E-6765-AA)

Bolt the ModdBox Intake Heat Shield to the bolt located behind the passenger side headlight assembly. Secure the Intake Shield to the radiator coolant hose with the provided strap. Place your 70mm ModdBox Cold Air Intake Filter to the Stock MAF Tube and secure the hose clamp.
CAM04428-1024x768.jpg



Replace the Stock Fuel Pump with the Moddbox 255lph Fuel Pump. See description here:
http://modd.me/4-0l-v6-cologne-supercharger-kit-install/

Re-install Radiator Rock Shield. Replace the 3/4 gallon (~3L) of coolant back to into the radiator cap.

Slack your Belt Tensioner using a 3/8” Box Wrench or Belt Removal Tool. Remove the Stock belt and replace it with the ModdBox 6PK Belt as illustrated below.
4LV6CologneInstall-100.jpg


Optional. Obtain your stock throttle body cover. Cut the cover as shown in the below diagram. Remove one M6 bolt from your ModdBox Intake Manifold Cover and bolt down the throttle body cover.
4LV6CologneInstall-101.jpg


CONNECTION CHECK LIST

EGR Vac Line
EGR Electrical Plug
EGR Stainless Line
Crank Case Vent Hose (may be 2 depending on your model)
IAC Electrical Plug
TPS Electrical Plug
Electrical wires (from side of Intake Manifold) should be secured away from the Throttle Cable and Cruise Control cables.
Fuel Vapor Return Line
Fuel Injection Vacuum Line
Brake Booster Line



more edits to come... for the most up-to-date information... click here:
http://modd.me/4-0l-v6-cologne-supercharger-kit-install/
002-490x357.jpg
 



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I wish all posts were this great! I also wish it fit a Job 1.
 






I'm not gonna lie...I didn't read all of that, but I did skim through it really quick. From what I did read, this looks like a very solid write-up. Great job!
 






I wish all posts were this great! I also wish it fit a Job 1.

I wonder if it will fit a Job 2 (01 model)

I thought the late 01's were the same mechanically as the 02's.

Perhaps the OP can chime in with why it only works 02+
 






I wonder if it will fit a Job 2 (01 model)

I thought the late 01's were the same mechanically as the 02's.

Perhaps the OP can chime in with why it only works 02+

I would feel safe to say it would work on any Job 2 including the late '01. They probably just haven't test fit an '01 Job 2 so they're smart not to advertise something they haven't verified.
 






Just when I started to be a good money saver, I see this... :/
 






Im liking this kit over the rpcaster banshee. Alot less mods to make it work. And another plus is its from :ca: no new fuel rails or lines to deal with.

Looks like a heat exchanger setup would be tuff to setup compared to the banshee kit.

Might have to add this to my wish list again
I would much rather leave the throttle body cover off tho
 






Hi All.
[MENTION=16760]krispy97xlt[/MENTION] & [MENTION=135486]OffTrac[/MENTION]
The earlier SOHC models are probably compatible. You are right that we have not yet tested on this engine and it would be best not to advertise any compatibility until we know everything about it including how the ecu compensates. However, we are aware that the wiring harness is different (among other things). When/if we offer the kit for that model, we would include a wiring harness that is similar to the 2002+ model Ranger/Explorers as the earlier models have a wiring harness that does not give enough room for the lower plenum to mate to the engine's intake ports.

[MENTION=97686]Dan95-5.0[/MENTION]
Regarding the heat exchanger, all our kits are pre-setup & 100% compatible to our intercooler kit. At closer inspection to our product photos you will notice that the lower plenum plates are pre-fitted with 3/8"npt plugs. Also, the CNC cut curves on this lower plate also serve as the mounting flanges for the intercooler. By simply removing the npt plugs and swapping them out form 90deg barbs and our intercooler will bolt right up! In addition, our kit is also pre-setup for methanol injection and other sensors (intake temp, boost, etc). The methanol injection will provide additional cooling and higher octane numbers if you plan to go to a higher boost or adjust timing (if you want to go that far).

If you are planning to go farther, you may be interested to know that our pulleys are designed for the 6PK ranger pulley to prevent slipping. We include two (2) boost pulleys (3.0 & 3.5 psi) in the kit and we sell 3.15" (5.5psi) and 2.9" (8psi) pulleys. We will also offer full engine pulley sets in future to up the ratio further :)

We are currently working on the 8psi Level II kit. Stay tuned to our facebook/twitter for the latest info!
 






Thats an awesome kit, now we need a kit for the 5.0
 






Wonder how my 200k mile Sport Trac's motor would hold up to that lol. Wish I had money :(
 






[MENTION=199374]delexploder[/MENTION]
Thank for your comments! We get a lot of requests for other models and we are working on building more and more kits. Check our website or follow our facebook/twitter for the latest as we are always working on the next thing (click the signature below). At present, we have 2 products in the testing phase and another 4 in design. Unfortunately, we have not been working on the 5.0L.
[MENTION=241065]mitch9521[/MENTION]
200,000 mile can hardly be considered a young engine anymore. On the up side, at least its domestic.
 






[MENTION=241065]mitch9521[/MENTION]
200,000 mile can hardly be considered a young engine anymore. On the up side, at least its domestic.

It still has plenty of power and runs fine, but yeah if I was going to sink in the money for a supercharger, I'd get my engine rebuilt..it probably wouldn't last long with boost :(
 






[MENTION=241065]mitch9521[/MENTION]


It still has plenty of power and runs fine, but yeah if I was going to sink in the money for a supercharger, I'd get my engine rebuilt..it probably wouldn't last long with boost :(

Who knows... maybe it would last. One of our 4.0L explorer r&d trucks has 219000 on it. First we used it to just design the parts, then we figured "why not". All we did is swap the plugs since the motor still ran solid with great compression. Its been driving fast ever since :D


Pic of the test truck from our site. Note that we had a ranger throttle body and stock air box on it temporarily till we finished manufacturing the bracket & heat shield for the 4 door explorer.
2002Explorer4Dr.jpg
 












we established its for job2 SOHC 4.0 motors but issue remains on fuel lines and more importantly the later models with a FPDM that works as a regulator on the pump due to being a returnless system. also FFV motors these issues might want/need to addressed as many will get tired of only 3-4PSI and want to lower pulley size i know i had a 96 pontiac bonneville SSEi series II supercharged 3800 (3.8). when you dig into boost and nitrous as well it is very critical to regulate fuel correctly. and octane grades are huge into this as 93 detonates slower than 85 thats why STI's and evo's and my SSEi require 91 or higher. is there a tune you plan to add that safely and accurately tunes the vehicle's fuel mapping to address the possibility of detonation (knock). also a tune for us FFV's to run a boosted motor on E85 would be rather interesting and cost effective as well.
 






we established its for job2 SOHC 4.0 motors but issue remains on fuel lines and more importantly the later models with a FPDM that works as a regulator on the pump due to being a returnless system. also FFV motors these issues might want/need to addressed as many will get tired of only 3-4PSI and want to lower pulley size i know i had a 96 pontiac bonneville SSEi series II supercharged 3800 (3.8). when you dig into boost and nitrous as well it is very critical to regulate fuel correctly. and octane grades are huge into this as 93 detonates slower than 85 thats why STI's and evo's and my SSEi require 91 or higher. is there a tune you plan to add that safely and accurately tunes the vehicle's fuel mapping to address the possibility of detonation (knock). also a tune for us FFV's to run a boosted motor on E85 would be rather interesting and cost effective as well.

[MENTION=202186]05dakotatrac[/MENTION]
You had a few questions so I will respond to them separately to keep things a bit clearer :)

Regarding the issue of fuel lines, the stock fuel lines are more than adequate for a much higher hp as long as the pump is upgraded. Our kit provides a 255lph fuel pump that is capable of delivering fuel flow safely to about the 475hp range. I know of another kit that replaces the fuel rail, however, this is more likely due to the conflicting geometric design of the lower plenum to the stock fuel rail mounting points. The head loss (pressure drop due to friction) across the stock fuel rail is negligible and tampering with the fuel lines is unsubstantiated (and makes more work / risk for the customer).

As for higher boosts, we are working on the 8psi kit. In our opinion this is the highest boost we are comfortable going with the stock compression ratio. As for fuel, the system will need to have colder plugs (ngk heat range no.7-8 recommended) and injectors as well as a re-mapped ecu.

The system will be tuned to the regulated pressure for about 65 psig (as regulated by the stock in-tank regulator). However, since the rising boost pressure will limit the flow relative to the boost (65psig - 8psig = 57 delta pressure), we may need to provide a rising fuel pressure regulator that is boost controlled. However, we do not anticipate this to be the case as we are hoping we can adjust for this in the fuel mapping.

Also, depending on how the stock sensors perform, we may also include aftermarket MAP & MAF sensors. To further add a barrier to pre-detonation, the system is intended to be used with our intercooler kit and water methanol injection system is recommended. Since we do not want to make tuning our business... we intend to provide all the pieces except the tune. However, we will include an SCT tune file as a "start point". Since our vehicles are tuned at ~500m elevation and since every vehicle is a bit different, we stress that the tuning is up to the end user and provide the "start point" tune free of charge.

Stay tuned to our facebook/twitter/& web blog for the latest details!
(links in signature)
 












This is a great thread, sub'd!
 






[MENTION=76870]corkey[/MENTION]

You are probably the 50-60th person that has asked this question. If you guys keep asking... we might just make one :D

i'm in Canada, want to use mine as the test mule ?

:D:D:D:D
 



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i'm in Canada, want to use mine as the test mule ?

:D:D:D:D

Seriously... sure:) But we push our test trucks pretty hard. We test them by hauling (often with trailer) up the Coquehalla connector. It's about a 20 minute climb up an 8% @ 140 kms/hr. During the testing phase... things might not work out so well... especially because we "try" to blow it up.

We would feel awful if something went wrong... might be best if we blow up one of our own engines.

PM me if you're close to the Central Okanagan Area. The more test vehicles the better :)
 






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