limited slip differential

[95eXplorerXLT]

ok a few weeks maybe a month or so ago, me boats and 2 other guys were out wheelin at a local spot when i bottomed the rear axle out one wheel was on the ground and the other was in a rut and wasnt touching the ground....the wheel that was not on the ground was spinning and the one on the ground had no traction what so ever...i thought the LSD was sopposed to give me some more traction in that situation...it was like i just had an open diff. could it be that the clutch plates are worn down and need replacing?? its got almost 60k on it and i dont believe that they have ever been replaced thanx chris

[BRacing]

The clutch plates are just that, clutches. The provide a limited amount of force to lock the two wheels together. But not enough force to snap axles/chirp tires when going around a sharp turn. With enough force, the limited slip will, in fact, SLIP! that's what it's designed to do.

Even with a fresh (new) limited slip, it will still slip, just requires greater force. The only solution to prevent this type of slip is using a locker or a spool.

Limited slips are great for anything that sees regular street use. A good mechanic can rebuild/adjust a limited slip to require higher forces before slippage.

Hope this helps.
-Brad

[95eXplorerXLT]

aight so what do i need to say to a mechanic if i get them to modify the ls to require a greater force???

[espnfreak]

might be worth it to just get a locker..

[fox]

no way!!!! locker? not if you already have a limited slip and it sees ANY street use. man wheel hop sucks!!! if you have have any mechanical ability than you can replace or repack them you self. i'm 17 and taking on a gear install this week. i't's on 1/2 ton but the rear end is an 8.8(and i love exs, used to have one)with a limited slip. it is real easy.

first remove the tires and drum covers

thenyou take off the cover and remove most of the gear oil.

then you reamove the center pin(about 1/2 inch in dia), that requires removing one 8mm bot on the outside of the carier and sliping it out.

then the clutch pressure sping- two flat head screw drivers work well.

then the axel shafts- this can be tricky- or you can get lucky like me and get them first try- those two same screw drivers(flat head) work best. place each one one eather side of the axel c-clip adn tap one with a hammer. kinda hard and fast, it's and art, you'll get it.
after you get the c-clips off then pull the shafts out they, should slide right out.

then the spider gears-just rotate the carier and they will fall out into you hands.

now you have acess to your clutch packs. just slide them out and go to ford for knew ones.

i'm pretty shure that you can add some more to get a greater resisatnce to make it more like a locker but not if you get what i'm saying.

hope this helps, i'm going to post pics on what i did to my 8.8 and step by step instructions wich will include the LS. so you can wait untill then to see them or pay some yahoo 200 buck to do it, oh and he'll have your car for two weeks to do a two hour job(maybe 4 to 5 if you'ev never delt with rear ends befor.

juste-mail me if you have any Q's

[BRacing]

well, rebuilding the limited slip clutch pack is the best thing that can be done. I'm sure SOMEBODY out there make an aftermarket clutchpack that is slightly thicker or has stiffer springs to exert more force. Basiclly, the more force (or "preload") on the clutchpack, then the stiffer your limited slip will seem.

At the track, we've actually made a shim out of the wall of a beer can and inserted it into the clutchpack. This was enough extra thickness to add the desired pressure to our failing limited slip before the race.

Hope this helps.
-Brad

[Jefe]

I'd suggest a locker. I've got a Powertrax No-slip, along with many others on this board. It handles very nicely on-road, and great off-road.

[Robert]

Can the Powertrax No Slip be put into my '97 that came with the factory LS? How much do they run?

[95eXplorerXLT]

if i was to go with the powertrax no-slip what kind of different handling will i experince w/ the locker instead of the LS??

[GJarrett]

Yes Robert, mine was a LS before I put my Powertrax in. It is is different part number though, there is a different NoSlip depending on whether you have a factory TracLoc or not, so you need to tell them that when you order it. I think I paid $375 for my NoSlip. Install is a breeze.

Chris, click on "Gerald's Truck" in my signature line to link to my Explorer Registry entry. Go to the second post which is an article I wrote about many of the mods and experiences I have made with my vehicle. The end of that post has my comments and opinion on the NoSlip and its handling manners. Also you've been on this board awhile so I know that you know how to use the search. Search for Powertrax and you'll find dozens of threads on it and what everyone else thinks too. I haven't heard a single complaint yet and it seems to really be the most street friendly locker out there.

[95eXplorerXLT]

thanks gerald, now that your out here in SC if your ever in greenville or if u just wanna go wheelin drop me a line or somethin...have u found any good wheelin spots around?

[Robert]

Gerald - I think I've found what I'll be spending my yearly bonus on (provided my company pays out this year). I found a LRP-92-0688-3128 for $406 locally. It lists it for '91-'00 Explorer with limited slip. How are the instructions? The advertisement says they are clearly written. Fine, but are the clearly understandable? There are a number of 4x4 shops locally so I'll shop around for the best price.

Will I see much of an improvement over my stock traction lock that now has 82K on it I might add? It still seems to do its job though. It will be interesting to see how my clutch plates look.

[Jefe]

The instructions for the powertrax are very well written/understandable. Much better than detroits 'quick-lok' instructions (just installed one in a friends isuzu, and ended up printing the powertrax instructions from online).

For a general installation guide go here:
http://www.powertrax.com/8221002a.pdf

I never had the LS, but I can assure you that the powertrax will never let you down, no matter what situation you are in.

[GJarrett]

Ditto Jefe, great instructions, piece of cake. Don't you dare pay someone to do it, you can easily do it yourself.

I commited two screwups. The first was missing the righthand thrust washer. Those d@m# things are paper thin and I didn't notice it and get mine out before trying to install the NoSlip. That few thousanths less clearance kept me from getting the install in and I had to back it all out, remove the thrust washer, and reinstall, so my install time was twice what they say it takes. Otherwise you can really do it with hand tools in a couple of hours or less.

One other thing, and you may not understand this until you install the unit and eyeball what I am trying to describe. The instructions are great. Read ALL of them and don't skim thorugh them because it looks so easy. I ignored one point and it may cost me a heckuva lotta headache in the future. My C-clips are the kind that have the little rubber O-ring in the axle groove that helps hold them in place. One little item in the Powertrax instructions notes to remove the rubber O-ring if you have it. I forgot to do that. The Powertrax totally surrounds the axle and leaves a small slit to access the C-clip on the right side. That C-clip must be removed to uninstall the unit. With no rubber O-ring you can rotate the carrier until the NoSlip slot is pointing down, push the axle inward, and the C-clip will drop right out.

I am sure mine won't, since I left that rubber O-ring in and it will hold that C-clip in place. If I ever blow another axle seal or have another reason to pull my axleshaft out, there is no way on earth I will be able to pull it. I will have to drill a hold through that Powertrax slot big enough to insert needlenose pliers into it far enough to grab and extract my C-clip. Since that Powertrax is a locker, I have no doubt how tough the steel it is made of is. It will be a royal pain to drill into that thing.

Do it yourself, read and follow the instructions, and enjoy the difference. I had a limited slip that performed well before, but the difference a true locker makes is phenominal and very much worth the money.

[fox]

ya he's right, the power trax is way better than a limited slip. i had the crappy detroit and it preformed AWSOME off road. so you should be very happy with the powertax(everyone says the road maners are way better). if your have the xtra money spend it.

[Robert]

Well I find out on Friday if my bonus check will be enough to cover the Powertrax.