Lets analyze this (control trac transfer case) LONG

Ok... I'm sick of this. I've had 4x4 problems on and off since I bought my X about 10 months ago and I know a lot of other people have too. So lets figure this out.

BACKGROUND INFO
The pre '94 Explorer has the Borg Warner 13-45 which acts as a normal TC. It is either on or off, putting the Explorer in 4x4 or 2x4.

However, I have the 1995 Explorer with the Control Trac. That means I have the Borg Warner 44-05 transfer case. The control trac is 2x4 or 4x4 auto. The auto set is 2x4 until the wheels spin and the TC will engage. As per my Chiltons Manual
The Borg Warner 44-05 TC operates in the same manner as the 13-54, except that is also houses a transfer case clutch. This clutch, which is controlled by the Generic Control Module (GEM), enables the vehicle to be driven in 4 wheel drive on dry pavement by cycling the clutch to compensate for different front and rear driveshaft speeds (as in turning). The system has a dealer installable Neutral position mode.
So if I read that right, if my TC is functioning correctly, the wheels WILL NOT bind as I turn, unless my rear tires are slipping.

So this is what I understand.

IF YOUR CONTROL TRAC NEVER ENGAGES, or gets stuck in 4WD, your problem lies in either the electric switch located in the cab, the transfer case shift motor or the auto hubs. This does not mean that you have a bad tranfer case.

IF YOUR CONTROL TRAC ENGAGES BUT FAULTS, your problem lies in the transfer case shift motor, the TC or the GEM.

MY PROBLEM
My explorer will engage perfectly, in 4 high and 4 low for the first few minutes that I have switched the electronic control into 4x4 auto or 4x4 low. Then I get the infamous 4x4 high and low flashing lights. When the ligts are flashing my 4x4 still works fine, however I obviosly have a fault (causing the lights to flash). If I am on dry pavement, most of the time I will feel "bump steering" meaning my 4x4 is still engaged (and it shouldn't be). The 4x4 will usually disengage when I switch it back to 2x4 on the electronic switch, however the lights will still be flashinging signalling a fault.

DIAGNOSIS; it could be
THE TRANSFER CASE- The "clutch" described above does not serve it's function. It only is in 4x4 high and does not disengage the TC to 2x4.

AUTO HUBS- I don't think this is my problem

THE GEM- my Chiltons said this is what controls the clutch in the TC. Therefor if this faults, the TC will not work correctly.

it can't be
THE TC SHIFT MOTOR- The TC shift motor engages as soon as I move the electronic switch, however it is up to the clutch inside of the TC to determine if the explorer is in 2x4 or 4x4. the shift motor should then disengage when the electronic switch moves back to 2x4.

ELECTRONIC SWITCH- it obviously works if the explorer engages.


If anyone disagrees, please post. If anyone has a comment or suggestion, please post. If you took the last 5 minutes to read this and wish you could have the 5 minutes back, please post.

Here ya go, buddy. I hope this helps. I had the same problem.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=41012&highlight=binding

I gota 94 and i cant keep my transfer case engaged. The dash lights wont stay on, in fact, I only say them flash once, ever. I can get me xfer case to stay engaged for a minute or so, then it kicks back out. I already replaced the servo motor and the 4wd computer. Any ideas ?

Originally posted by yob_yeknom
To help narrow it down. First you don't have auto hubs, so that's not even possible to begin with. Next the pulsing doesn't happen in 4low, as it is locked in 4wd. Are you sure you are able to get it in 4low?

If you want to make it really simple, the dealer can read the fault codes from the GEM and tell you what is wrong with the 4wd system. It'll cost you though.

Is your ABS system working properly? Speedometer seem to work fine?

Click to expand...

ABS is fine, speedo is fine.

I think I can get it to go to 4 low, the 4 low lights does come on.

When the dealer reads fault codes is it from the computer or the GEM or are they the same? I just had it at the dealer a while ago and they thought it was the TC shift motor, but they really didn't know. After I talked to the mechanic he said it might be the transfer case itself. He said the computer had fault codes, but they obviously weren't specific enough codes if the tech didn't know what the problem was. He just said there was a fualt in my 4x4 system.

I don't know...but I do know of a fellow Michigander that could use some expierienced help on installing the 2" PA Body Lift.

Damn Bill, are you still having trouble with this thing? From your description, it really sounds like the clutch is your problem. Sounds like it is keeping the system locked in 4 Hi all the time instead of cycling like it should. That's why you're getting the binding and bump steering on dry pavement. But, that's just what I think from reading your description, so don't take my word for it.

Tell ya what, I'll trade you for my 92. I won't need 4x4 when I move back to CA this summer.

BTW, are you back in Ann Arbor? I could go for some Jimmy John's.

peace

Mike

Mike-
your thoughts are exactly what I was thinking, and YES, I'M STILL HAVING PROBLEMS

You busy tonight? JJ's at 6? Let me know

SSikora-
When are you planning on doing this? 2" or 3"??

I can do it anytime. I just think having done one...you wouold be a big help. How much will hourly labor cost???

The one thing you have left out is the fact the system takes readings from speed sensors to determine whether or not there is slipping occuring in order to engage the clutch, applying power to the front wheels, to compensate for the slippage. If these sensor(s) are bad, the system thinks you are in constant state of wheel slip, and keeps power applied to front wheels, causing binding. Start simple.... Check/test/replace the sensors. Good Luck!

Your Transfercase is a 2 speed transfercase, so it has hi, lo and Neutral. What drives the front drive line is the clutchs in the T-case. In normal mode your T-case is in Hi, when it senses a varience between the wheels from the speed sensors, then it engages the viscous clutch to engage the front driveline. You don't have a problem with the shift motor, unless it won't shift into 4Lo or shift back to Hi. Have you tried the old "hit it with a hammer trick yet"? The only other thing it might be is that on the 95-96 models, there is a vaccum assisted moudule on the passenger side of the front diffy, that has something to do with engaging your 4 wheel drive. I once had a problem with it when I had my 95 Explorer, but I don't remember the exact problem.

Once again, if you read the link I posted there is a Ford TSB on the subject. It has to do with the GEM telling the TC to engage too harshly. A simple GEM reprogramming will most likely fix it.

JASON-
I read that link and it will most likely be the first thing I try.

RAY-
I thought the hammer trick was only good if the fault was caused by the TC shift motor.... I'll check the vacuum.

Ok, I think whenever I have the 4x4 selector on 4x4 high, it is ALWAYS in 4 wheel drive, even if I am going straight. Wouldn't that mean that my clutch in the TC is bad? Or I guess it could be the speed sensor, but the speedo still works fine. Is there any way I can test that?

Thanks guys (and gals)

Sorry Michigander, didn't read well enough. I think Gerald "GJarrett" had this same problem on his big fourwheeling trip. His transfercase got stuck in 4-high and he had to get another one. Ray should know about this.

Michiganer I couldn't tell if you can still get in 4lo, how can you not tell? Put it in 4lo, drive it, and see if your gearing is way down.

I cannot tell you what my problem is yet. I was locked in 4wd permanently but I had both 4hi and 4lo; in other words the shift motor worked but something in the transfer case internals broke. I swapped one out and my old one is on my balcony right now. I haven't opened it up yet to see what went wrong.

It sounds like you may have the same problem that I did. I paid $400 and drove 360 miles away to get the used tcase; I got quotes as high as $850 used - they are MUCH more expensive new.

I plan to open my old up this weekend and see what broke, then fix it and resell mine to recoup my $400 cost. This is my daily driver and I could not afford to open mine up, wait a week or two for parts, and then reinstall.

There is a difference I believe in mine and yours; I have "4auto" and I believe yours has a 2wd setting, right?

Sorry I couldn't help you. I'm not even sure you could buy my old one. Does anyone know the difference if any in the 2wd-4hi-4lo tcase of 95-96 BW4405 and the 4auto-4hi-4lo of the 97+ BW4405?

If there's no change you could always buy my rebuilt one, swap them out the same day so you don't lose any driving time, then rebuild yours and sell it to the next in line I have a feeling this chain can continue for a long time since I have read other threads on BW4405 problems.

I'm about 90% sure that I can get it into 4 low, but I will check again tomorow.

It sounds like either the GEM or TC then huh?

Sounds like it to me bud, I am now leaning more towards the transfer case. If you can wait a month or so you can have a perfectly good working 4405 for cheap from yours truly

Now that I think about it, I believe when I'm in 4HI its stays there too. HMMMM...maybe I should look into that before tackling the Body Lift.....NNAAAHHH.

I just talked to A ford mechanic. He said with the 100K+ miles on my car bad U-joints could cause severe binding in 4WD but shouldn't make the 4x4 lights flash. Any thoughts?

Michigander, please verify something. What are your exact dashboard settings. I'm somewhat confused because you talk about Auto 4x4 and 4x4HI and 4x4LOW. Those are the settings on my '99. But I thought the '95s were 2WD/4Auto/4Lo. If you have a 4HI setting, then the system is locked and you will get binding. If its 4Auto, the system should only engage 4x4 when the sensors recognize that their is rear wheel slip (compares rear wheel speed to front wheel speed). The system applies power in 5or 10% increments up to 50/50 split until it front and rear wheel speeds are back to normal, then the process reverses. My understanding of you post was you have 4auto that stays "locked" in 4x4 when slippery conditions don't exist. That is why I think it's the speed sensors. If I am completely off base with my analyses, please let me know, cause I want to learn what is correct.