Torsion Bar 101, Everything you Need to look for!

[Fifty150]

Insecure women are funny that way. They have to have your undivided attention and do not want to compete with anything or anyone. A buddy of mine can't even have lunch with co-workers because his wife gets jealous. First they pick out your clothes, then they pick out your friends. After awhile, you're not allowed to have any friends.

Handguns Are Cheap, Bullets Even Cheaper

Originally Posted by taxx

Or untill they decide you spend way to much time "playing" with them

[Woodbutcher]

Variation or clarification to RammaR's question:
Say I want to do a 1.50" - 2" TT, but I don't know if a TT was already done by a previous owner. Potentially if I add to an earlier TT I could overdo the lift.
Is there a way to tell when you've reached a maximum (2") TT lift total including any previous TT that you don't know about?
I've been looking for a specific answer for this but if there is one here I missed it - sorry for asking if it's been addressed.

[grant00]

Originally Posted by Woodbutcher

Variation or clarification to RammaR's question:
Say I want to do a 1.50" - 2" TT, but I don't know if a TT was already done by a previous owner. Potentially if I add to an earlier TT I could overdo the lift.
Is there a way to tell when you've reached a maximum (2") TT lift total including any previous TT that you don't know about?
I've been looking for a specific answer for this but if there is one here I missed it - sorry for asking if it's been addressed.

Its really hard to tell since no 2 vehicles sit at the same height and no 2 have their torsion bars adjusted the exact same...most likely. that said you could look at your CV shaft angles and if they have a pretty good angle on them at ride height i wouldn't push it. if they're pretty close to level then you can PROBABLY do a little bit. I don't know your vehicle so I am not going to tell you whether or not you can do it without breaking anything. you should also check the rating on your torsion bars and if they are not B rated (I think thats the stiffest ). If yours are a lower rating you can swap them out for a heavier rating and that could raise your vehicle up a little bit too. You can search around here for the info on torsion bar ratings and where to find them

[Woodbutcher]

Thanks grant00, but I guess what I'm looking for is this: to make a TT adjustment of a recommended (approximate) maximum of 2", that adjustment has to be relative to some fixed point on the vehicle (center of wheel, etc.), and then you would need to know a standard distance to compare the adjustment to. Or, you'd have to have some sort of markings or reference point to show where you're at to start with. I think. It might be a moot point - I'm thinking of having a pro do it just so I don't screw it up.

[CDW6212R]

There is a large variance between all trucks as to how high they can go before the adjusting bolts reach their limit. One side will max out before the other, none of the trucks are level left/right when the adjusters are equally in/out.

Mine is lowered and one adjuster will lower the truck at least 1.5" farther than the other.

The best CV axle lifespan happens when they are level. Watch your front CV axles as you lift it up, that's how you tell how far is too much. The farther from level they get, the faster they wear out. Keep the frame level left/right, go a little at a time, until you reach the height you want, or one side max's out. Check that by measuring down to the ground from the LCA front bolt centers. Let the alignment shop make the final level left/right, and tell them what height you are after.

[Woodbutcher]

Okay, maybe I'm asking the wrong questions.
So far, here's what I think I'm reading:
1) It's best if the CV axles are as close to level as possible. Makes sense.
2) If one adjuster (the first one to reach it) reaches its height limit, the other should be adjusted so that the axles are level to each other. That would make this adjustment the actual maximum lift on this vehicle (is that an accurate assumption?) without tilting to one side.
Question - if this is the actual maximum lift, how would I determine if it's more lift than it should be for the CV's? How do I keep from over-lifting, regardless of vehicle variations?

[grant00]

what he said ^^^^^

there is not real standard distance to compare to since all trucks are different. Thats the simplest way to put it...

[grant00]

Originally Posted by Woodbutcher

Okay, maybe I'm asking the wrong questions.
So far, here's what I think I'm reading:
1) It's best if the CV axles are as close to level as possible. Makes sense.
2) If one adjuster (the first one to reach it) reaches its height limit, the other should be adjusted so that the axles are level to each other. That would make this adjustment the actual maximum lift on this vehicle (is that an accurate assumption?) without tilting to one side.
Question - if this is the actual maximum lift, how would I determine if it's more lift than it should be for the CV's? How do I keep from over-lifting, regardless of vehicle variations?

if you can rotate the tires and the CV joints do not bind then you're probably good.. however, thats not saying that they wont bind and fail with any given amount of down-travel that increases the angle on the CV joints..

..and yes it would be the maximum amount of lift unless you go and change out your adjuster bolts for longer ones.

[Woodbutcher]

Is there a maximum angle (if that can be measured reasonably accurately) that would be a more reliable indicator of a safe lift?

[Woodbutcher]

Sorry, don't mean to make this more difficult than it is. Sounds like it's basically a "wing it" kind of adjustment.

[CDW6212R]

The real answer that you are looking for is that for most people, moving the CV axles over about 2.5" to 3" is where they begin to wear quick enough to notice it. That means for most people you won't know that for say 40-75k miles or more. For most people that's a good lifespan for a CV axle they go off road with. That's an understatement if you don't get my sarcasm.

That's why you hear or read a lot of people say you can crank them up or down and not worry about it. Only if you really go past those CV angles would you see lots of wear. You probably will reach the limits of the adjusters before the CV axles will cry about it. You can buy different torsion bar keys for about $100. Those are made to move the range of adjustment, and certain later model Rangers I know come with them(they set higher stock). Regards,

[Woodbutcher]

Thanks, that's more what I was looking for. Without knowing for sure if it's previously been lifted, I just wanted to know if I adjusted it if I'd screw it up by overdoing the TT. Probably I won't need to lift the front much since the butt is sagging (the Explorer, not me) and most likely I'd do an AAL and shackles on the rear, with a pretty minimal lift in front (well, probably about 1.50"). I have 31x10.50/R15's on it now, possibly 32's later, but for now I'm looking more to lift the butt a little. Needs new shocks too - any recommendations as to brand/model (reasonably priced, but good)?
Thanks!

[grant00]

take a look at this as it could be a good reference for angle:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...light=CV+angle

And the rancho 5000 are good shocks. as well as their 9000 adjustable ones too.

theres also these sweet ones that Dixon Brothers sell (they're radflo I believe) ive been looking at them for a while:

http://www.dixonbrosracing.com/content/view/113/6/

[2TimingTom]

Originally Posted by Mbrooks420

It adds tension to the torsion bars making the a arms of the truck push downward lifting the truck.

I read this whole thread and still have a question regarding shocks.

So my shocks are in need of repalcement prior to doing the TT on my truck- should I get "stock height" shocks or shocks for "1-2.5" lift"? Does the TT add any suspension travel or just adjust where it sits relative in the travel range?

And doing either shackles or AAL to the rear, would longer shocks be advisable or still use stock height shocks?

I ordered some new Rancho RS5000 shocks for 1-2.5" lift for both front and rear. Should I use all 4 of them, use only the rears or return all of them and get stock height shocks?

Thanks!

[grant00]

Originally Posted by 2TimingTom

I read this whole thread and still have a question regarding shocks.

So my shocks are in need of repalcement prior to doing the TT on my truck- should I get "stock height" shocks or shocks for "1-2.5" lift"? Does the TT add any suspension travel or just adjust where it sits relative in the travel range?

And doing either shackles or AAL to the rear, would longer shocks be advisable or still use stock height shocks?

I ordered some new Rancho RS5000 shocks for 1-2.5" lift for both front and rear. Should I use all 4 of them, use only the rears or return all of them and get stock height shocks?

Thanks!

The TT just adjusts where your suspension sits. I will limit your downtravel though..

I have shackles on mine and still use the stock shocks but that will be changing soon. I would use all 4 of them. you should be ok with the longer ones.

[750sxi]

ive heard that if you do a torsion bar lift that makes the vehicle ride badly. is that true?

[ExplorGM]

Not badly, just more of a firm ride. I liked the ride better than stock. In fact I found that it helped with corning and emergency maneuvers. Does not hurt your load carrying ability either. A little more jarring at slow speed in the rough, but better at higher speed wash board runs.

[750sxi]

how long did the torsion twist take?

[ExplorGM]

Someone who has done theirs more recently can probably answer more specifically. I did mine back in 2002! Jacking up the vehicle and setting up the jack stands takes longer than the actual torsion twist though as long as they are not jammed, rusted or stuck. Mine took longer since I replaced the torsion bars completely. Still not a tough project though as far as lifts are concerned.

[emberswzd]

Anyone have any how to's on changing lower control Arm which requires removal of torsion bars on 2001 explorer, or is this out of a junior mechanics league.

Joe