Torsion Bar 101, Everything you Need to look for!

[WidgetTrac]

With my stock bolts maxxed out, the keys are almost at the end of ther range. If I got bolts that were 1" longer, I would only be able to use a small part of the additional length - basically just enough to cram the tops of the keys up against the end of the seat. To go beyond that, you could rotate the bars 60 degrees to the next hex flat, but that would probably be waaay too much spring pressure!!!

so if you're 2wd or just want MORE, (but not 60 deg. more!), then the keys are a way to re-index.

[CDW6212R]

New keys(aftermarket) used to be $90 or so. The bars were $45 each from Ford, I have "B"'s now.

[WidgetTrac]

Originally Posted by swshawaii

...either method is just lifting and changing the LCA angle.
Don't see how the "preload" or "spring rate" changes...l

Thank you! I don't know how many warnings i've seen about this. Torsion twist is basically the same as a shackle lift in the rear - it doesn't change the springs or their stiffness or rate. you need AAL to do that, or just new springs ot T-bars, or coil springs, or coilover. You can wear springs out or ruin them with heat, but not make them firmer.

To put it another way, the front of your truck doesn't get heavier when you lift it, therefore the tires will still be pushing against the ground with the same force, therefore the same spring pressure.

Except for the very slight change in LCA angle. But that's very slight... usually.

[swshawaii]

Originally Posted by WidgetTrac

To put it another way, the front of your truck doesn't get heavier when you lift it, therefore the tires will still be pushing against the ground with the same force, therefore the same spring pressure.

Except for the very slight change in LCA angle. But that's very slight...
usually.

You got it Widgettrac!

Claims of torsion keys retaining stock ride quality usually only comes from the people selling them.
The only reason to use them is if they're out of travel, or you don't want to do a torsion key flip to lower.
Stock LCA angles are almost parallel to the frame, small changes will make a huge ride quality difference.

[WidgetTrac]

There's the man! Anybody who still doesn't get it, go back and read Dons post(s) around the middle pages of this thread!

There are lift key sets for $45 shipped, but they appear to be cut from flat bar instead of forged - maybe not as strong? maybe stronger, I dunno... Maybe tighter tolerances, maybe schmabey - if anyone actually knows anything about the cheap keys in particular, especially anything BAD, please post! I'm almost certain I'll end up going with lift keys, and even though they all basically provide the same function, some are bound to be made better than others...

[swshawaii]

Many people despise this company, fortunately I bought my drop keys used.
Haven't ever heard of them failing, mine have served me well without issues.
And if it makes you feel better, call them ChassisTech, NOT AirBagIt. LOL

http://www.airbagit.com/product-p/key-x-fr98.htm

[CDW6212R]

For lifting you may be able to find later Ranger keys. The Rangers had keys clocked to provide higher ride heights. So it could be cheaper to buy those used if you have a salvage yard that lets you work on them. I'm not sure of which year models, I just recall reading on the RPS forum about people using the Explorer keys to lower with.

[WidgetTrac]

People also seem confused about whether to do this with the truck sitting on the ground or jacked up. There are pros and cons to either method. The correct method is the method that suits your situation tje best.

FoMoCo says to do it on the ground, but ask yourself "why?" The official procedure was developed for the benefit of the dealership service department, and they do things differently than a guy in his driveway. They do in an alignment bay, where a guy can walk underneath. More significantly, the tires will be on "floating" pads that allow the suspension to settle WHILE you are adjusting, so you can instantly tell exactly how high it is. You set it and you're done , exactly right, right away, and you're ready to move on to the next job. Time is money, so get it done and get it out and get on to the next one.

At home, there aren't any floating pads, so you have to roll the car a few feet to relieve the camber change pressure against the tire sidewalls, so you don't get 100% accurate real-time feedback while doing the adjustment. If you do it on the ground you can still see approximately how much it's moving, but you still have to roll it to see where it will settle. At home, the pros for doing it on the ground are less time spent jacking, and being somewhat able to see the effect of what you're doing while you're doing it.

BUT... those bolts can be a reat biatch! Especially if they've never been moved...

Jacking the front tires off the ground makes the adjusters a bit easier to turn. I counted about 80 "cranks" on my ratchet from top to bottom, which I figure is about 20 full turns. My arms literally fell off, poetically speaking. Anything that helps, helps, so that's why most people do this with the front jacked.

...and also why people who write procedures for dealer mechanics prefer their way. There are good reasons for either method, mostly depending on facilities.

[WidgetTrac]

Airbagit has interesting 2wd lift spindles, but i've decided against spindle lift due to track width increase and wheel backspace limitations. The torsion keys above look just like the cheap ones on Ebay, meaning they are cut from flat bar or plate, which is probably fine if well designed... Water jets do nice work!

But finding OEM for the same price or less would be fantastic!

I'll have to find pics of a key flip , because I can't see how the keys would fit into their seats, unless the seats are flippable in some way as well. That was actually the reason I came to this thread in the 1st place, lol...

[swshawaii]

Appears the key flip would only work for lowering, the indexing is opposite for lifting.
Don's idea of using the Ranger keys sounds great if it works. Check the Ranger forums.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...highlight=flip

[CDW6212R]

I had one stock key flipped to get my truck as low as I wanted it, one side was far far from the adjustment of the other one. Now with two lowering keys, I have the height where I want it, but with the keys oriented properly for the bolts.

Set the final heights with the truck on the ground, and it has to be rolled some, or driven, to check it. You can lower the truck with it on the ground, but don't raise it that way. The weight of the truck is too much to force the bolt in(up) to lift the truck. Simply jack up the front for the few seconds it takes to crank the bolts up, and then drop it to the ground to check the new height.

[bushgeroge551]

I have an 04 LC. It had a pretty drastic stinkbug stance, so I had the torsion bars cranked to level it out a bit (still some slant). I believe that all the mechanic did was crank the bars (and an alignment) and that he did NOT re-index the torsion bars.

My LC currently looks good (right stance) and drives well (on the street and fire roads, I don't drive it on anything harsher). I've also had subsequent alignments with no issues.

My questions are: What exactly does re-indexing the torsion bars do (I know it affects/increases down travel)? Should I get my torsion bars re-indexed and re-cranked (and an alignment) even though I'm not noticing any ride issues? Does re-indexing and cranking change the CV angles less than just cranking (i.e., would I be less likely to need a diff drop if I do both instead of crank only)?

Last, but not least, would you expect re-indexing and re-cranking to reduce some of the misc. noises that I sometimes experience and that seem to be coming from my front suspension (some pops and/or clank-type noises I get from time-to-time)?

Thanks in advance!!

[Codil7]

Where are the torsion bolts on a 2003 explorer? i cant find them anywhere and the diagram looks like its for a much older model. Im probably looking right at them i just dont know it.

[swshawaii]

Originally Posted by Codil7

Where are the torsion bolts on a 2003 explorer? i cant find them anywhere and the diagram looks like its for a much older model. Im probably looking right at them i just dont know it.

You don't have torsion bars/bolts unless you have a 2-door Sport.
Ford changed to coil springs starting from 2002 Gen 3. Search link:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...splay.php?f=98

[fordfrystak]

Went down a horse trail for the first time with my ex..... hit a rock that was hidden in a puddle... and well the rock fought back. Ripped off that nice piece of metal that covers the rear mounting point of the front right torsion bar. Very easy to replace but man did i feel it yank

[black98exploder]

to lower my front end on my 98 explorer 4 door 4wd can i completely remove the torsion adjuster bolts or do they need to stay in part way? i do plan on lowering so im pretty close to a 30 1/2 inch height all around as the front driver side sits at 33" even and the passenger sits at 33 1/2 and i know the back sags a bit as i have a big system in the back but i want to get everything as close as i can i know ill probably have to do the TT but for now i just want to bring the front down without doing the tt right now

[antdemoe6]

If i tighten the bolts does that lower or lift it?

[albi1cnobi1]

Tighten = lift, loosen = lower.

[antdemoe6]

if i want to lift it do i loosen or tighten the bolts?

[antdemoe6]

ok thank you