Nate1
All 4 wheels locked
- Joined
- December 4, 2002
- Messages
- 3,702
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Gainesville/Tampa, FL
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '96 FZJ-80
Okay, well this morning I started up in about 50°F weather, and got the usual flicking oil guage... but bad news this morning. It was idling at 1500 rpms for a sec... which I noticed but didn't give any thought to. Then (granted, no warm up time... like all this happens in 5 seconds) I shifted to reverse, which made the engine work a little, and WHOMP I fall to 500 rpms and get the classic 'HELP-IM-GONNA-STALL' shaking from the engine. Picked itself up in about a second, but still, it made me think. I decided that before I go into looking at new O-Rings (okay, I only have 43k miles, so its still under warranty), I thought I would go about cleaning the MAF (btw if anyone knows what I ACTUALLY need to do, let me know, but for now I hope the MAF helps).
What you will need:
1 Security Star Bit
A couple of cotton swabs
1 Bottle 91% RUBBING alcohol
1 Socket (or other) wrench
(You may need a dremel if you can't find the right sized bit, or if they are out of stock.)
1) Goto discount auto parts (or silimar) and buy the security star screw nearest (a little big, my exact bit was a 'Tamper Resistant Star Socket T-25 1/4"').
(If you get the right size skip steps 2-5)
2) Go place it over the star, see if it nearly fits.
3) Goto dremel, put orange grinder bit on, about speed 3, and slowly grind the ribs down a little at the tip.
4)Get a cutting plate, speed 4, and cut in between the ribs to deepen the channels a little.
5) Go see if it fits pretty well yet. If not, go back to step 3.
6) Get a socket wrench (or if you cant find yours, get a robogrip wrench like me
) and pop you bit on, then SLOWLY remove the security screws. If you dont want FORD to know you did this (well, they probably will anyways) you cant grind up the screws
7) Gently lift out the MAF (you may need to disconnect the wiring harness, mine was long enough that I didn't)
8) Take a little cotton swab, dip it in alcohol (rubbing... c'mon!) and shake off the excess.
9) Gently pass the tip of the swab over the tiny sensor in the platic cover. (Top one from front, bottom one has to be accessed from going up the bottom of the tube) I found peeling the end of the swab forward a little allowed me to get around the sensor to the other side.
10) Give it a few rigourus blows of air, and let dry.
11) Place back into the intake, and GENTLY re-tighten the screws.
12) Wait 10-15 mins for good measure... then start your car to make sure you didn't do anything bad.
13) Listen for air leaks if you didn't tighten it enough, then close your hood cuz YOURE DONE!
Some Pics of the process are below... I hope this helps the timid of you (I'm no mechanic, don't worry this isn't hard at all)
Pic 1: MAF Removed;
Dead Link Removed
Pic 2: MAF Closeup;
Dead Link Removed
Pic 3: Fixed Star Bit;
Dead Link Removed
Pic 4: Everything you need to do it (besides hands);
Dead Link Removed
Hope this helps, and sorry for my slow upload speed, I've only got cable. If it gets too slow, I'll host em on my corporate website...
Keep me informed of any other suggestions you have to fix my problem (the one described at the top)
----Nate
What you will need:
1 Security Star Bit
A couple of cotton swabs
1 Bottle 91% RUBBING alcohol
1 Socket (or other) wrench
(You may need a dremel if you can't find the right sized bit, or if they are out of stock.)
1) Goto discount auto parts (or silimar) and buy the security star screw nearest (a little big, my exact bit was a 'Tamper Resistant Star Socket T-25 1/4"').
(If you get the right size skip steps 2-5)
2) Go place it over the star, see if it nearly fits.
3) Goto dremel, put orange grinder bit on, about speed 3, and slowly grind the ribs down a little at the tip.
4)Get a cutting plate, speed 4, and cut in between the ribs to deepen the channels a little.
5) Go see if it fits pretty well yet. If not, go back to step 3.
6) Get a socket wrench (or if you cant find yours, get a robogrip wrench like me
) and pop you bit on, then SLOWLY remove the security screws. If you dont want FORD to know you did this (well, they probably will anyways) you cant grind up the screws7) Gently lift out the MAF (you may need to disconnect the wiring harness, mine was long enough that I didn't)
8) Take a little cotton swab, dip it in alcohol (rubbing... c'mon!) and shake off the excess.
9) Gently pass the tip of the swab over the tiny sensor in the platic cover. (Top one from front, bottom one has to be accessed from going up the bottom of the tube) I found peeling the end of the swab forward a little allowed me to get around the sensor to the other side.
10) Give it a few rigourus blows of air, and let dry.
11) Place back into the intake, and GENTLY re-tighten the screws.
12) Wait 10-15 mins for good measure... then start your car to make sure you didn't do anything bad.
13) Listen for air leaks if you didn't tighten it enough, then close your hood cuz YOURE DONE!
Some Pics of the process are below... I hope this helps the timid of you (I'm no mechanic, don't worry this isn't hard at all)
Pic 1: MAF Removed;
Dead Link Removed
Pic 2: MAF Closeup;
Dead Link Removed
Pic 3: Fixed Star Bit;
Dead Link Removed
Pic 4: Everything you need to do it (besides hands);
Dead Link Removed
Hope this helps, and sorry for my slow upload speed, I've only got cable. If it gets too slow, I'll host em on my corporate website...
Keep me informed of any other suggestions you have to fix my problem (the one described at the top
)----Nate
