Its here - Electric Cooling Fan install

[aldive]

In my never-ending pursuit for a more efficient truck with enhanced gas mileage, the next logical step for me was the replacement of the engine driven fan with an electric cooling fan. In addition to a boost in fuel economy, this procedure will also net some horsepower ( the fan manufacturer claims up to 17 free crank horsepower from a fan change ).

A little research showed the recommended flow rate for my V6 engine is 2000 CFM, consequently I decided to use a Flex-a-Lite Black Magic Fan 150 ( http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/blackmag.htm ). This 15 inch fan assembly with nylon shroud moves 2800 cu ft of air (Airflow-Cu. Ft./Min. at 0º Static Pressure ) and draws 13.9 amps. For control of the fan, it has a Built in control box with adjustable thermostat, A/C relay and manual switch connection. I did not want an electric fan that attached to the radiator with tie wraps.
The fan was ordered from Summit Racing ( http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...rchtype%3Decat ) for $217.85, UPS 2nd day to my door.

Upon opening the box to check that all parts were present, I found a rugged fan with built in shroud as well as all the other needed goodies including wire ( though not enough ) and crimp on connectors. The instructions were next to worthless. All of the structural parts are heavy duty and appear very durable.

The first step in the installation was the removal of the existing factory fan and clutch using a Ford Fan Clutch Wrench Kit facilitated this. The specialty tools make this job easy. I got mine on the tool lone program from the local AutoZone store ( if you have never used this program, it is great; you put a deposit down on a credit card and take the tool for as long as you want, bring it back for credit or just keep it - the deposit, which is the retail price of the tool, for the fan clutch removal tools it was $32.10 ). After unbolting the fan clutch, the factory shroud was unbolted ( 2 bolts ) and the fan assembly and shroud was lifted out as a unit, with a little effort and some cursing. These parts were saved in the dubious event that they might be required at a later date.

After comparing the size of the factory fan a/shroud with the new one, I had some worries about whether this was a good idea after all.

Four threaded rods were screwed into the shroud assembly. The new fan assembly was held in place from the top while my son slipped on the bracket for the bottom and then tightened it down. The support brackets are a rather shiny silver color; I painted them black to match the other under hood items. It’s a shame that they don’t make auto model specific brackets that allow the unit to be bolted on with the factory shroud hardware for a much cleaner looking install.

The electrical install is straightforward. First the battery is disconnected. Next, the 12 v positive terminal is connected to a switched 12 v source at the fuse block with an Add A Circuit adaptor (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...roduct_ID=1527 ). The B terminal is connected directly to the positive side of the battery with an inline circuit breaker ( included in the kit ) that is attached with Marine-Tex behind the battery to the inner fender wall. The G terminal is the ground. The C terminal is spliced into the AC clutch positive lead. The M terminal is for a Manuel Control Switch; this switch will allow you to override the thermostatic switch when extra cooling is needed or as a backup in the unlikely event of a thermostatic switch malfunction. It is connected to a toggle switch ( mounted to the top part of the console next to the SkiFi XM radio. ). The switch is powered by an ignition switched 12 v supply ( at the fuse block with another Add A Circuit adapter ). The temperature sensor probe from the control unit must be in good contact with the radiator; therefore, it was simply slipped in among the cooling fins. All wiring is neatly secured and enclosed in wire looms.

To set the thermostat, I hooked up my OBD II scanner (http://www.autoxray.com/products.aspx?sub=scanners&id=2 ) and set it to display coolant temperature. Subsequently the thermostat control is turned clockwise completely. The truck is cranked and is run until the scanner shows the temperature to 195 F; the control was turned counterclockwise until the fan turns on. The temperature display returns to 192 F very quick, and remained there.. With the factory fan, the normal operating temperature was 190 F.

The install took about 2 ½ hours working at a comfortable pace.

During operation, the fan is extremely quiet and there is a slight but noticeable feel of increased power. The OBD II scanner was left attached and the coolant temperature was monitored during the road test; the temperature was unwavering at 192 F. During preliminary evaluation in the Florida heat, there have been no overheating issues.

I shall report on any overheating problems after driving the truck around town in traffic. A lengthy road test will be made very soon to determine the installation’s effect on gas mileage.

So far, I am very pleased with this modification.

[VairKing]

Very good Al, I would like to do this to the 97 some day, any chance you could snap some pictures of it? Looking foward to what increases it has on performance/milage...

[aldive]

I will have some pics posted tomorrow; I knew I forgot something.......

[aldive]

This is the fan unit.....

[Gimp]

Very cool writeup. (Get it - cool writeup.)

I have one question about the temperature probe, though. Don't you think that it would be more accurate if it were the type that is actually immersed in the engine coolant rather than the type that is wedged into the fins of the radiator. (Was the style of thermostatic control probe optional?) I would think that just the flow of air alone over that type of temp sensor might have an effect on cycling the fan on and off when the coolant itself is hotter than the probe. I know that you checked it at the time of install with your scanner and it was OK but ambient temps haven't gotten way up there yet.

[aldive]

Agree with ya on the immersion type probe, but it was not an option. Today it was 88 F. I reckon tume will tell, I shall leave the scanner attached and monitoring coolant temperature for a week or so.

[Nate1]

Al, why is it not an option? What if you did something like bought some thermal epoxy used for computers and sealed it in the thermal epoxy so it had a hard thermally condutive shell around it, then ran it into the coolant somehow?
It does get pretty hot down here

[Hokie]

Al, I am very impressed with this and can't wait to see the pics... this is definately something that Explorer Express should look into making (hint hint ) so we could all have a bolt on kit that we know is taylor made to our vehicles... So what is your total investment in the mod? I don't see how this wouldn't free up some ponies and give you more mileage... Another example of a great mod that should be available for the #1 selling SUV on the planet ~ but isn't...

Make sure to post your conclusions after that road trip!

[Crankcase]

Nice write up Al, keep us updated if it stays cool or not

[james t]

i will be watching this thread for info on summer temps. i want one, but need someone to test 100+ ambient temps. in short, if it works for you al, im getting one.

[aldive]

Front view showing wire loom and top mounting bracket.....

[aldive]

View from drivers side... everything is so tight in there, details are hard to photograph.....

[aldive]

Short road trip this morning to return the Fan Clutch Removal Tools to AutoZone, driving in traffic, 80 F ambient temperature.... the coolant temperature maintained a steady 192 F the entire trip ( with A/C on ).

[aldive]

Originally posted by HokieBert
.. So what is your total investment in the mod?

The fan assembly was $217.85, the following extra items 0 wire loom, connectors, wire, switch ( marine grade ), paint - added about $25 more for a total of $242.75.

[410Fortune]

Nice! You will love it if it works right! I miss my electric fan.......

However I wasn never able to overheat the 4.0L, 100 degrees outside, stop and go traffic, towing, nothing. Then I went 4 wheeling one day and during a very steep hill climb where I got stuck several times, the truck heated up instantly............

So put this sucker to the test, the last thing you want is to be in the middle of no-where when it does reach it's limits....

How often is the fan on for you?

Also what kind of strain has it put on your electrical system? headlights dim?

I plan to go back to a electric fan someday, but first my alternator and a dual battery setup will be installed, also a 10" pusher fan in the front just in case......

I like your choice of fan, the amount of research you did (what is it two years now? hahaha) and the write up. I guarantee you will get the largest increase in MPG to date of all your mods.........it makes a huge difference, at least it did with my 2.9L.........the 4.0L I dont know because I only had it on there for a couple weeks after the conversion........

[aldive]

Originally posted by 410Fortune
However I wasn never able to overheat the 4.0L, 100 degrees outside, stop and go traffic, towing, nothing. Then I went 4 wheeling one day and during a very steep hill climb where I got stuck several times, the truck heated up instantly............

How often is the fan on for you?

Also what kind of strain has it put on your electrical system? headlights dim?

First, my truck is street only ( except the dirt roads on my ranch )

So far the fan is on all the time since I run A/C almost always here in Florida.

I have a heavy duty wiring harness on my headlights ( http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...wiring+harness ). I run the A/C blower, lightds, stereo ( amp ) and have had NO electrical dimming or any problems whatsoever.

[Black Magic]

That is a great mod. I have been wanting to do that for awhile now too. Just a couple of questions:

Does the shroud cover the entire radiator?

Can you hook it up to just be on when the truck is on? So you don't have to mess with the thermastat.

[410Fortune]

You can wire it directly to an acc no problem, however you want it off when on the highway, etc because it will put less strain on the alternator and battery

[Black Magic]

Oh yea, with a name like Black Magic, you know it's a good product. I have to get one now, just for the name! LOL

[aldive]

Originally posted by Black Magic
Does the shroud cover the entire radiator?

Can you hook it up to just be on when the truck is on? So you don't have to mess with the thermastat.

No, the shroud does not cover the area that the factory one did.

Yes, you can bypass the thermostatic control and run manual only.