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Old 05-27-2003, 06:09 PM   #1
pagz
sacramento, ca
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AC recharge

I've got a 97 EXplorer sport 4x4 and the AC just went hot. I hear the compressor still cycling, but no cold air. Is it possible to get one of those R134 recharge kits from Wal Mart and just recharge it myself, or should i bring it to a dealership and have them charge me up the A$$ to fix it? Oh and yes i have checked the infamous blend door...
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Old 05-27-2003, 06:31 PM   #2
BradE.
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You can recharge it yourself pretty easily. The kits at WalMart will work.




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Old 05-27-2003, 10:12 PM   #3
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Yes , you can recharge yourself as long as you have some R-134stem. ( Once all the R-134 has leaked out, it is ba=est to have it evacuated before adding the freon). Be sure to buy a kit that has a low pressure side gauge and only fill the low pressure side 1/2 can at a time, checking pressure each time. If you get too much freon in the system, it can blow out seals in the compressor of o-rings. There should be an "optimum" pressure line or color on the gauge.




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Old 05-27-2003, 10:13 PM   #4
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Sorry... that first line was to make sure you have some R-134 in the system.




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Old 05-28-2003, 12:52 AM   #5
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You could also take it to an independent shop and have it checked out. The advantage of doing it this way is that they can add a small amount of flourescent dye to the a/c system so they can determine where it is leaking and fix it.

When I needed to recharge my Ranger, I took it to a shop at Arden & Fulton but they aren't there anymore. Usually there are some places that offer an A/C inspection for $30-40 plus refridgerant. The R-134A is not nearly as expensive as the R-12, so it shouldn't cost a lot to get an inspection and recharge.
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Old 05-28-2003, 07:42 PM   #6
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I'm with dogfriend. Good advice.


Happy exploring

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Old 05-30-2003, 12:10 AM   #7
pagz
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Ok i have all the stuff to recharge, but where is the low pressure side that i am supposed to hook it up to?
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Old 06-03-2003, 02:34 PM   #8
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found low pressure side, re-charged it and all is nice and cool now...Thanks for the help guys...
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Old 07-03-2004, 12:01 PM   #9
quixel
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i dont know where the low pressure side is please help i get conflicting stories
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Old 07-04-2004, 07:46 PM   #10
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The high pressure side is the line from the compressor to the condensor (mounted in front of the radiator). The low pressure side is the line coming from the accumulator/dryer (called the suction accumulator/dryer in the list) to the compressor.
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Old 07-04-2004, 10:07 PM   #11
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I took some pictures of the system on my truck. I believe the high pressure port is the black cap near the battery. There is also a green cap near the battery; this is for the Evap System - don't try to use this port.

The only other port that I see is on top of the accumulator/dryer (called the suction accumulator/dryer in the Ford manual). I believe that this is the low pressure port. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
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Old 07-04-2004, 10:13 PM   #12
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Nice pics! BTW, the locations are the same on the V8 engines, if anyone was wondering.




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Old 07-10-2004, 11:45 PM   #13
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You may want ot look into recharging your system with HC-12a. This is what I have found during my research.

1. Lower boiling point than r-12 or 134.
2. Uses 35% to 40% less than 12 or 134
3. compresses more effieciently, using less horsepower
4. Better heat exchange than 12 or 134
5. Totally compatable with either 12 or 134

The only downfall I see so far is that it is about 4 times the price, but you are using less than half of what you normally would. I have just bought a case and plan on doing the recharge this week. I will let ya'll know how it goes. Here is the website that got me started in my research. Hope this helps.

http://www.hc12ausa.com/
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Old 07-11-2004, 12:56 AM   #14
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The other drawback that I see is flammability. The HC-12a is hydrocarbon based; you could burn it as fuel (not automotive fuel, but in a propane stove) because it is a flammable gas. CFC-12 and HFC-134A are much less flammable because of the fluorine.

The MSDS for the HC-12a warns to use spark proof equipment and to be careful of static electricity because of the possibility of ignition. Be Careful.
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Old 09-23-2004, 09:53 AM   #15
2000EB4x4inGA
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I bought one of these kits from wlamart and got a reading of 25 right on the edge of what it says needs to be filled. However using the supplied can of refridgerant etc i was unable to get the system to take any r134 any ideas guys?

Thanks in advance

Brian




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Ok so i sold the 2000 in my name and got a 1997 for half the price with the same miles engine etc. Just no SR so i thought that was smart.
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Old 09-23-2004, 11:59 AM   #16
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If the pictures don't make it clear:

The low-side valve is on a larger-diameter hose/pipe than the high-side valve.

I believe that with 134 systems the fittings are different sizes, too, so they're idiot-proof. (That doesn't prevent overcharging, though.)
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:09 PM   #17
spta97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8BoatBuilder
Nice pics! BTW, the locations are the same on the V8 engines, if anyone was wondering.
The low pressure port (which is what you would be dealing with) is in the same location.

I have a question - what is the trick to getting all the R134A to take? I could not get mine above 45 PSI - how long does the can take to empty?
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Old 09-23-2004, 01:48 PM   #18
2000EB4x4inGA
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I cant get my can to empty at all...the guage works fine... the can works if you just press the button...i am following the directions... Any ideas? Does it work better with the AC off...the can says to do it at Max AC engine running. I pressed down the button of a shaken can for a good 2 minutes with no result.




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Ok so i sold the 2000 in my name and got a 1997 for half the price with the same miles engine etc. Just no SR so i thought that was smart.
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Old 09-23-2004, 02:21 PM   #19
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First off... WHY would you want the low side operating pressure to be 45 or higher? Next... with the engine operating the low side will be at it's lowest, and will take in gaseous refrigerant most easily. In other words, low side gas charging is always done with the system running.

(Biting my tongue about the "kits"... grrr... I'll just say this. AC pressures are NOT, repeat NOT like TIRE pressures. In other words you may add air until your tire pressure is 32 psi. AC pressures fluctuate, there is not a "full" pressure indication by using a cheapie gauge. Trust in the vent temps. For more info read "Converting you AC .." in the USEFUL threads and follow the links, LOTS of info there.) rant complete.
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Old 09-23-2004, 02:56 PM   #20
2000EB4x4inGA
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ok here is actually the situation...

My compressor cycles ALOT... at idle it almost causes the car to idle because the compressor kicks on and as the car adjusts its idle the compressor kicks back off.

This in my experience means that i am low on freon (134) so i wa trying to add more. The guage i bought said that the range was between 25 and 45 for low side and i am right at 24-25 meaning no difference in the vent temp but i think i am working my equipment more than is needed.

Thanks for advice and help.

Brian




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Ok so i sold the 2000 in my name and got a 1997 for half the price with the same miles engine etc. Just no SR so i thought that was smart.
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