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Front Driveshaft CV-Joint Removal??

 
 
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Old 08-23-2003, 07:20 PM   #1
Nick26
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Front Driveshaft CV-Joint Removal??

Ok I'm trying to troubleshoot a binding in my steering. It feels like the more I fully turn the more it binds up (going straight I don't feel any resistance). Kinda like when your taking a sharp turn in 4 wheel drive and you hear the popping noise from the transfercase slipping to allow the 2 driveshafts to go different speeds around a turn. Except I have in Auto and its doing it. However, I know its definitely not in 4x4 when its happening cause I can still switch on the 4x4 switch and feel the steering get heavier. Anyway what I am trying to do is disconnect my front drive shaft to see if its my transfer case, but i can't figure out how to pull apart the darn CV-Joint on the transfercase side of driveshaft. My haynes manual and my ford CD just say unbolt it, which I did but its not coming apart. I've been scouring the forums here for like 2 hours so please don't flame me saying use search, cause i didn't manage to find anything on actually disconnecting the driveshaft with a CV.

So my question is how do I get the darn CV-Joint apart on the transfercase side of the driveshaft? Or do I not want to do this because then it would need to be repacked professionally? The ford manual cd said to discard the old bolts, are they only good for one torque or something? Sorry for the long post, I'd appreciate any help, and fast cause I gotta get to work on monday. Thanks!
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Old 08-23-2003, 08:15 PM   #2
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I'm not sure exactly what part of the driveshaft you're talking about. I think you mean the round end on that bolts to the transfer case with those 6 small bolts with the pieces of metal between every 2 bolts, am i right?

If so, then that has a bulge on it that kind of sits in a bowl looking flange on the transfer case, it just pulls a part. Try to get a screw driver in there to pry it open, it's not going to hurt anything.




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Old 08-23-2003, 09:01 PM   #3
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Except mabey your screwdriver! DS removal is a job that uses a BFH I believe... just needs some elbow grease!




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Old 08-23-2003, 09:50 PM   #4
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yes that is the part im talking about, I'll give is a whack tomorrow, thanks for the timely response :p
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Old 08-24-2003, 08:58 AM   #5
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Yeah if you have a rubber mallet that would be better, just start beating the area where you think it looks like it will come apart.




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Old 08-24-2003, 08:30 PM   #6
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Well I got it off... I thought the whole CV joint came off the transfercase, so i was knocking on the wrong lip before. Instead the top popped off the CV. and i got it off that way. Now I just have some ziploc bags duct taped over both sides of the CV, on the driveshaft end and on the transfercase. And more good news cause the I found my steering problem but the bad news is its my transfercase not completely disengaging. With the front drive shaft totally removed its steers prefect, better than ever in fact(cause its in 2WD and the 4% is gone). However, with it in there it binds up big time. My transfercase fluid is fine, so I guess its time for a new transfer case? I'd really like to get a manual one anyway and screw the whole control trac system (I like being in control). Anyone know what a used bw 13-54 will go for? Josh you and Doug did this switch didn't you? I assume I'll need a new front drive shaft since the old ones had U joints on the tcase instead of CV's but do you think the driveshaft off the same truck(explorer or ranger) I get the tcase from will be the right length or am I looking at a custom length? Also I saw some 1356's(off an F-150/Bronco) on ebay but they wouldn't bolt up to a M5OD would they? Sorry for the long post, I'm just trying to figure out what I'm looking at here. All advice is appreciated, Thanks!
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Old 08-24-2003, 08:51 PM   #7
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Glad to hear you got it off. Although there's no need for the ziploc bags

There several members here that have put in a 1354, i'm probably just the most recent. I completed it last thrusday. I paid 165 for mine shipped to a business and it was in perfect working condition. Some people have paid around 400 for them, so it's just luck on where you find them. I got mine from www.goboom.com on there auction boards.

The 1356 won't work on our trucks.




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Old 08-24-2003, 09:00 PM   #8
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Transfercase feels nothing different in going straight versus turning. Only thing that notices a difference are the CV halfshafts. There is nothing wrong with your transfercase or your driveshaft. If there is a poping it is in the CV half shafts most likely. The transfer case does not slip to allow the two tires to spin different speeds the front differential does. My guess would be you have a CV or two going out. With the shaft out there is no pressure on the front drive, therefore it has no problems turning because it is free spinning. With the shaft in there in auto there is some pressure bing put on the front drive causing the CVs to actually work and could cause one to bind.

Your driveshaft and Transfercase are not the problems. If it pops and binds in turns it is the CV halfshafts. Are you at stock ride height? how many miles?




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Old 08-24-2003, 09:01 PM   #9
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I just saw you have te TT, how high did you go? Did you try taking it back down and driving it?

Again it is NOT your t-case.




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Old 08-24-2003, 10:04 PM   #10
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Will anything abnormal happen if you drive the truck without CVs or front driveshaft?




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Old 08-24-2003, 10:18 PM   #11
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Front shaft = No

CVs = Yes - wheel bearings will seperate and your wheel will fall off. The outer CVs are sort of like the spindle on a 2x4 truck holding the bearing/hub assembly together. Now you can take the shaft apart and just slide the outer end of the outer CV in and tighten that nut down, but I think if I was looking to lose 4x4 I would just get some spindles and eliminate the risk.




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Old 08-24-2003, 10:33 PM   #12
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So I could swap in a set of spindles, lose the CVs and front shaft, and everything will work good in 2WD?




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Old 08-24-2003, 10:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hartman
So I could swap in a set of spindles, lose the CVs and front shaft, and everything will work good in 2WD?
Yup. And look at these bad boys.




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Old 08-25-2003, 06:19 AM   #14
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I un-did the TT completely, took off my 32"s and it still did it. My TT was only about an 1.5" too. From what I read the CV's would make noise even if I'm going straight and they don't. The noise I was getting was just like I was trying to operate 4Hi on dry pavement, do you know that noise? I didn't say the transfercase allows the 2 wheels to spin at different speeds, I said the 2 driveshafts cause the front wheels would spin faster when turning. Also my front diff is open so there is nothing to slip there, and it should just be smooth. Still the CV's you think?

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Old 08-25-2003, 06:32 AM   #15
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Also, I should mention it is slightly out of alignment. I am planning on getting another alignment but I was thinking about adding a body lift first so I'd rather just wait until I get everything straightened out.

Another thing I noticed with this problem is that when I got off the trail(hills/loose rock/mud/puddles) and put it back in Auto and not 4Hi or 4 Lo for the rest of the day it seemed to steer fine and eventually the problem would slowly come back.
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Old 08-25-2003, 08:22 AM   #16
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Does it pop when turning offroad in 4x4?

I still think it is the CVs they are the only thing that can pop when turning. As long as everything else is all tight. they won't necessarily pop when going straight on the pavement.




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Old 08-25-2003, 09:03 AM   #17
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it would only pop off road if i took a tight turn in 4Lo, otherwise the dirt would allow the wheels to slip more.

Am I wrong about the transfercase slipping to allow the driveshafts to turn different speeds? I believe it was a mechanic who told me that.
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Old 10-14-2003, 12:42 PM   #18
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yet another follow up for other people's benefit (incase you haven't figured out by now work is really slow today )

taxxman: I wouldn't doubt that I have done some damage to my cv-joints from all that popping, but the main problem did afterall seem to be my transfercase. The clutch was apparently partially engaging in 4wd(more than the 96/4% usual split). More and more so everyday until I took out the front driveshaft (didn't stop there I just couldn't observe it after that). Once I had it out and played with it, I realized it took a reasonable amount of force to make the driveshafts spin at different speeds, which made me assume it was a mechanical problem not an electrical problem such as speed sensors. I swapped transfercases to the 1354m because it was relatively cheap(cheaper and easier than replacing half-shafts that is for me anyway) and I also liked the idea of having the manual and 100% engagement when I wanted it.

Even if the problem did dissappear only because there was no pressure on the CV's anymore, I knew swapping t-cases would still work because it would basically be the same setup I had now just disconnecting the front driveshaft when i wanted 2wd.

Also to answer my own question, the 4405(control trac) does not have a center differential like the AWD 4404. This makes it impossible for the front and rear drivesahfts to turn at different speeds which in turn is what makes it impossible to turn on dry pavement with out breaking stuff.

So in the end i have a manual t-case, can steer perfect, no noises upfront and i settled on about a 1 inch TT. Hope this helps someone! if not, oh well at least it let me pretend like I know what im talking about!

Last edited by Nick26; 10-14-2003 at 01:11 PM.
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