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How do I know if Torque Converter is Seated?

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Old 12-12-2003, 05:36 PM   #1
grisc
swedesboro, NJ
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Question How do I know if Torque Converter is Seated?

Well, after all the discussion about my cooling lines and no fluid running through them. I did bypass the cooler and it seemed to run fluid through them but I don't think it actually did, because I tried it again and nothing happened. So, I assume the TC is not seated and not engaging the trans pump. So, I went ahead and unmated the trans this afternoon. This time when I put it back together I want to make sure it is right. Can anyone tell me a step by step process for seating the TC and mating the trans back up?
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Old 12-12-2003, 05:47 PM   #2
410Fortune
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When you puyt the converter on the shaft it will stop at a certain point.

If you keep wiggling it up and down and turn it you will notice it goes back one more notch. That is seated.
You have to do it by feel pretty much.

Now the problem is just because it is seated on the ground doesnt mean it stayed that way as you lift the tranny into place and line it up.

So it is a good idea (actually mandatory) to double and triple check again before you install any bolts.

My transmission guy told me a good piece of advice, he said if the converter is all the way back into the pump and the transmission is bolted to the engine, when you bolt the converter to the flywheel it should pull the converter forward 1/4"- 1/2". This is a sure fire way to make sure it is in all the way.

Be very careful when bolting the converter to the flywheel, use as much light as you can get and make sure you have a good view through the starter hole.

The transmission should tighten all the way up to the engine without any bindfing going on between the converter and flywheel, as long as you have the 4 bolts pointed in the right spots.

Yuou just have to do it by feel, and you can get an idea of what it should feel like as the tranny is out of the truck.




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Old 12-12-2003, 06:15 PM   #3
grisc
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410 fortune, thanks for the advice, the last time I did it I didn't have all the bolts tight in the trans before I bolted the torque converter to the flywheel, that is why it must have pulled it off the spline last time, I am just nervous that I will put it all back together and it will not be seated again. Well, I will do what you said and look for the TC to move that little bit when I bolt it up. Thanks.
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Old 12-13-2003, 09:35 AM   #4
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410Fortune-I just got back from looking at the torque converter, when I unmated the trans, I measured where the TC was seated then I slid it off the trans spline and rotated it a little then placed it back on. It did not go as far at all, probably about a half inch, the length of the flat spots. So, what I am saying is, that it seems that the flat spots were lined up last time, but I know I didn't follow the proper steps in the installation because i bolted the torque converter to the flywheel before I finished the housing bolts. So even if it seemed to be lined up on the spline wrong, could it have been unseated or jammed up on the pump, hence the reason the pump was not engaging, because I did not bolt the housing all the way up before I bolted the torque converter to the flywheel. I am just afraid to bolt it all back together before I know it is right, because if I do and it doesn't work right this time, I will probably just blow it up, haha.
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Old 12-14-2003, 07:31 PM   #5
SteveVB
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When you install the converter you are aligning the hub, the input shaft splines, and the lock up clutch splines- it may take some twisting back and forth with some pressure into the trans to get them all to line up.

Copied some install info which may help you- gives a good what to check list :

The following must be checked and replaced, if needed on all automatic and standard transmissions where applicable
CONVERTER INSTALLATION:- Make sure the converter is all the way into pump gear-don't assume its in place when you receive the transmission. After you are sure it is in place, always keep tail end of transmission low so it cannot slip out. This is the #1 cause of failure at time of installation, or soon thereafter.
Important Torque Converter Installation Tips
1) PREPARE THE CRANKSHAFT AND CONVERTER FOR INSTALLATION a) always check crankshaft for burrs and out of round b) remove rust with emery and lightly grease pocket c) remove paint from converter crank pilot with emery d) pour one quart of ATF into the converter e) check the flex plate for cracks and worn teeth f) install the converter on front of the transmission

2) CHECK CONVERTER TO FLEX PLATE ALIGNMENT a) after bell housing bolts are tight, then check free movement of converter. It should have 1/16 to 1/8" of clearance between pads on converter and flex plate. If you have more than 1/16 to 1/8", install equal thickness washers to reduce clearance to 1/16 to 1/8". If not enough clearance, remove transmission and check to see if converter is seated in front pump properly. b) draw converter bolts up evenly so as not to pull converter into a bind causing vibration and pump bushing failure. c) if vibration occurs after installation, mark converter to flex plate and rotate the converter one bolt hole at a time.

3) The number 1 cause of vibration is failure to prepare the crankshaft for installation. Each time the converter is installed without sanding out the crankshaft rust, removing the paint from converter pilot and adding a little grease the converter may be drawn up crooked with the first bolt, causing the converter to run-out and usually ruining the pump bushing. The 2nd most common complaint on converters is a whine after installation. This usually means too much clearance between converter pads and flex plate. This draws the converter hub too far out of the pump drive gear causing the gear to rock .




CONVERTER WHEN NOT REPLACED:- Must be removed and thoroughly flushed. Make the following inspections: thrust washers for misalignment, condition of inner sprag, hub condition for wear and mounting devices to insure proper alignment.
COOLER AND COOLER LINES: - Must be flushed to remove all metal particles and oil. Don't just blow out with air. Use a solvent that will flush out old oil and metal particles.
FLEX PLATE: - Inspect for cracks where plate bolts to engine and out of round holes where converter bolts to flex plate.
MANUAL CONTROL LINKAGE: - Must be re-adjusted to assure proper settings for unit being installed. Adjust linkage with car in actual road operation.
MOTOR AND TRANSMISSION MOUNTS: - Their condition will affect linkage adjustment and cause excessive wear to internal transmission parts if worn. Also, broken or oil-soaked mounts must be replaced.
U-JOINTS AND DRIVE SHAFT YOKE: - Rough and worn u-joints may cause vibration in drive line and failure of bushings and seal in tail casting. Rough or worn (tapered) front yoke will quickly damage rear seal and bushing, causing loss of lubricant which can lead to transmission failure.
ENGINE: - Many transmissions depend on engine vacuum for proper shift pattern. Good engine performance is a must to insure proper vacuum. If engine vacuum is too low it may cause the transmission to have a short life.
DO NOT: - Check out transmissions operation with the drive wheels off the ground.
DO NOT: - Re-use old oil. Dirty oil causes valves to stick and may clog lines if contaminated, both may lead to premature failure.
SHIFTER PLATE AND SHIFTER FINGERS: - Because of the various styles of shifter controls it is impossible to always supply the transmission with the proper shifter plate. It is of great importance if the shift fingers indicate any wear they must be changed. Worn fingers may cause too much gear movement resulting in noisy gears or improper synchronizer application. Shift arms must be the exact kind as on the original transmission.
SHIFTER LINKAGE: - Excessive wear of shifter linkage in shifter tube (in steering column) may cause malfunction in shifting. Too much wear at these points may cause improper throw or movement of the desired gear at the proper time. Sloppy shifter at steering column, dragging effect, in or out of gears or jumping out of gear all indicate possible linkage trouble.
CLUTCH UNIT AND PILOT BEARING: - The clutch must completely disengage to properly engage first or reveres gear. The condition of the pilot bushing will determine how well the transmissions front shaft is supported and how freely the clutch disc will operate.

DO NOT ASSUME THE ABOVE ITEMS ARE GOOD. CHECK EACH ONE THOROUGHLY.




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Old 12-15-2003, 12:29 PM   #6
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Here's my favorite:

MOTOR AND TRANSMISSION MOUNTS: - Their condition will affect linkage adjustment and cause excessive wear to internal transmission parts if worn. Also, broken or oil-soaked mounts must be replaced.

THen why did Ford provide such a crappy mount for the A4LD's??? You would think if the trans is already questionable and you knew the above to be true, you wouldnt skimp on the mount.

I am very happy with my AutoFAB unit. I wish I knew they made one before I replaced mine with the stock unit ($50 at dealer) 3 times!!




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88 BII 5.0L conversion - BII 5.0l drivetrain thread
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Wifes 07 FJ build - 2007 FJ cruiser locked and lifted
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Old 03-26-2009, 05:58 PM   #7
glued2it
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It seems to me there should be way to measure from the bell housing to the torque converter to know it is properly seated.

Say you got lucky and sliped it on just right in one try how would you know otherwise.( stranger things have happened)

You could spend forever trying to get it slip all the way when already is.
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