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Need quick reply, off to go buy...Charging?

jsun

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 18, 2003
Messages
262
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City, State
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 Explorer Sport SOHC 4x
Need some thoughts, to what should be a easy fix.

Wife has been using to truck for the past month, so I'm getting as much info out of her a possible?

My truck stalled on her last week after waiting outside my workplace for an 1hour, of course, batt was dead. Stereo was on, truck was off. Even though it should still last for more than an hour. Boost, everything is norm. Gauge cluster reads ~1/2.

Today, it won't start for her in a shopping parking lot? Gets a boost, off she goes. After her work it's dead again (not long enough to recharge before shutting down?). Get's a boost drives home. Gauge reads 1/2.

No warning lights on cluster of any kind according to her (thinking possibly alt if so). But, the motorcraft batt has a "green" ball in inspection window. Does that not tell you that the batt is good?

Moral is, I'm going to buy the batt, but could there be any possabilities that my alt could fail within this senerio and/or symtoms? Fuse's check good. No warning signs in cluster? Thinking about getting alt checked, but don't want to if I don't have to.

Regards,
J
(money now spent, for what should have been carrier assy)
 



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Also, How well and acurately can a shop test a batt that has slight indications off failure. Still can start the truck. The odd time that is?

And does the green mean good on the motorcraft batt.
I do not know history of batt?

Thanks!
J
(I Know, dumb Q's)
 






sounds like the battery to me. My stock battery went bad but the status light stayed green. and shop could test the battery for you and tell you if its bad. good luck
 






Could just be a bad connection to the battery terminals. But a shop will be able to test both the battery and the alternator.

Edit The shop should be able to do a drop test on the battery. This will tell them if it is holding charge and that the amps are good. The green indicator only measures one cell doesn't really tell dick.
 






Thanks! I'm leaving now...:)

The only real reason I ask, is that if it's the batt...then I'll just go to a ford dealer to buy another motoercraft.
But if it's either an alt or batt, then I'm driving different directions to buy a remanufactured alt at a batt sales shop. And I'm tired...:( I don't feel like wrenching at the moment...I have a big weekend ahead with the diff.

Cheers:D
J
 






AutoZone will test the charging system, but I am unsure how accurate that is.

To test the alternator, I always just use a multi-meter and make sure it is charging around 14.5Vs at idle. For the battery, I take them to Pep Boys (or other parts store that does it) and have the battery load tested. This test is a very accurate determination of any battery problems.
 






Originally posted by Robb
To test the alternator, I always just use a multi-meter and make sure it is charging around 14.5Vs at idle.

At the ground stud, and connector to alt, correct?

Regards,
J
 












Originally posted by Robb
Just check it at the battery posts.

Thanks!

J
(head in the sand)
 






Originally posted by jsun
I'll just go to a ford dealer to buy another motoercraft.

Go to Sears and get a Die Hard Gold instead.

I don't know how much it cost exactly but it can't be much- there is a battery/alternator tester that you could buy. It tells you what is failing- the battery or the alternator or both. It takes the guess work away. My father bought one years ago and it serves us well for 6 vehicles now. One of those tools that is worth every penny.
 






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