1987 Ford Bronco Dana 35 Swap | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1987 Ford Bronco Dana 35 Swap

show me this sport trac rotor mod

I assume this is after you have the 95-97 ranger dual piston caliper knuckles?
I'll find the post that has the details. The jeep guys are the ones that discuss it. I guess the Jeep dana 30 and the Ford dana 35 knuckles are similar. Jeep guys looking for cheap lockouts. Someone used WJ calipers and the sport trac rotor on one conversion.
 



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How did y’all adjust outer tire rod ends?? I found some videos online that say how ever many revolutions it takes you to remove tire rod end is how many it takes to re-install. Im assuming it wont be the same for a Dana 35.
IMG_4841.jpeg

@410Fortune
 






Loosen the nut on that clamp near the end of the tie rod bar on both ends. You want as close to the same amount of threads showing on both tie rod ends. If you install both ends and twist it until both rotors have the same measurement side to side front and back, that will get it close for the drive to the alignment shop.
 






Loosen the nut on that clamp near the end of the tie rod bar on both ends. You want as close to the same amount of threads showing on both tie rod ends. If you install both ends and twist it until both rotors have the same measurement side to side front and back, that will get it close for the drive to the alignment shop.
IMG_4846.jpeg

Im pretty sure I’ll have to do some digging and i might need to buy a new tie rods. It’s definitely hitting the sway bar. I’ve extended inner and outer rods as far as they can go.
 






Something fishy there with the steering

Your sway bar links are still stock except you are running a 3” James diff suspension lift… your sway bar links should be 3” longer then stock and you should consider a 2”’dropped pitman arm on the steering gear box

Your truck has two outer tie rods, one inner tie rod and one drag link, known as the “inverted y”’ steering linkage

Looks like your James duff drivers beam drop bracket has been repaired in the past…something to keep an eye on
 






Something fishy there with the steering

Your sway bar links are still stock except you are running a 3” James diff suspension lift… your sway bar links should be 3” longer then stock and you should consider a 2”’dropped pitman arm on the steering gear box

Your truck has two outer tie rods, one inner tie rod and one drag link, known as the “inverted y”’ steering linkage

Looks like your James duff drivers beam drop bracket has been repaired in the past…something to keep an eye on
Looking online, many others have stated the D35 steering linkage is wider, or longer than the D28.
 






Interesting! It was many many years ago now
But when my 88 bii went from Dana 28 to Dana 35 ttb I believe we used the steering linkage from the donor explorer as well.
If this is the case then the lift will only exaggerate things unless a drop pitman is also installedn
 






Interesting! It was many many years ago now
But when my 88 bii went from Dana 28 to Dana 35 ttb I believe we used the steering linkage from the donor explorer as well.
If this is the case then the lift will only exaggerate things unless a drop pitman is also installedn
We will be taking a trip to the U pull and Pay on Saturday. Their Craigslist ad I see occasionally looks like 40 acres of explorers. My luck is, I'd watch the guy in front of me pay for the last tie rod bar in the yard.
 






So, we went to the Pull and Save in Glendale, kinda misleading name when the few items we raped off an engine was almost $700. The D35 tie rod bar assembly is longer than the D28. I do feel disappointed how expensive that place has become, now I view it as a place if you need a single trim piece that can't be found easily elsewhere. I noticed a pair of D30 steering knuckles I wanted in the yard, asked the sales guy how much, he says $75 each. I can buy them cleaned and painted off the net for $120 or if I feel energetic I can buy the entire axle from a full service yard for $100, pull the knuckles and sell the axle for probably close to $100.
 






Ridiculous prices
Best to check their price sheets before you head out because being informed can save you money.
Many of the yards are too expensive these days and it is a shame
Some yards will charge you for each accessory one at a time which leads to a huge bill at the counter. The act of simply bolting things back together can save you $$$
Example is an engine complete
Instead of engine alternator, fan, power steering pump, ac compressor, etc etc
Or
Headlight, corner light, grill, headers panel, etc or just
Loaded header panel (much cheaper)

The cost of doing business these days is huge, it is not always their fault. The good ol days are mostly gone at the junk yards anymore
 






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