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Brakes 91 4x4

shawncrodom

Member
Joined
October 15, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Augusta,ME
Year, Model & Trim Level
'91 XLT
I need all the help i can with this one. Was told to change my MC and that would help with my brakes being spongy. Found out after changing MC that passenger side E-brake had stuck and destroyed drums on both sides. Now I have new MC and all new hardware in rear and still have no brakes. Has RABS and the light goes off when truck is started and the lines have no air in them after almost 2 weeks of bleeding. This is my DD and I have to get it back on the road. Can't take it to a pro since I spent all my money on the parts for the rear. Please if anyone can help...
 



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Search for Bleeding RABS..

Some say it is kind of a PITA to do, while others say it is no different than bleeding another caliper.

Then a few others will actually suggest to bypass the RABS and be done with it.

Good Luck!

Ryan
 






The RABS valves are known to rust shut internally, is there a healty flow of fluid coming out of the rear bleeders?

Did you adjust the pin when you installed the new master?

Did you bench-bleed the new master?

Adjustment procedure for pin:

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-Ted
 






Well a dribble comes out the rears and the front is a stream. Adjusted and bech bleed for the last too weeks. Faulty MC? Just gonna replace everything but the valve and bypass that. Don't see myself spending all that time and money on something that was free in the first place. Just wait till tax time, sell it for scrap and get something that is not a Ford.
 












Okay, so as the battle goes, these are the casualties so far: new MC, bench bled till i can't do it no more; new power booster; new drum brakes; RBS valve bypassed; and all unions and wheels bled till no air at all is seen. I am at the end of my rope as well as my wife having to ferry my butt around. Now I have discovered that when I press the peddle, sometimes I can get a nice gyser of fliud to shoot up in the rearend of the resevoir. Now my question is this, while changing the reservoir off the old to the new MC, could I have cracked it or are the gaskets on the new MC to large for my resevoir causing a vacuum action to suck air in somehow? I have basically tapped out all my financial resources for this so far, and cannot by another MC just to get the resevoir again. Hitting the JY soon, but need to get this POS back on the road. Any thoughts?

-Shawn

Also looking at the VIN number how can I tell which series the Sloder is?
 






Maybe you got a bad master? Was it a rebuild ? Where did you get it?

Does the pedal just go to the floor with almost no effort? If there is no leakage or air, then the master is about all that is left. And every master I've ever seen had the reservoir with it?

I once got a rebuild that had a huge gouge in the seat where the line goes in. I couldn't figure out why it was leaking... and almost ruined the line before I realized that there was a nice big groove in there when I looked with a flashlight.

-Ted
 






That was what I was afraid of. Rebuilt MC from Advance. and unfortuanatley it did not come with the resevior. Had to swap out the old one. Went to a local JY and found whole setup for a sall price, which in hindsight I should've done in the first place. But also now that I have seen what the rear drums looked like I doubt the old MC was ever bad in the first place. The pedel has gotten better since the new Power Booster was swapped, so that helped, a little. Feels like air is trapped in the front system somewhre, but when I tried to re-bleed the calipers, fliud shoots out of the tubes with no air, but the resevior keeps sucking air back into itself from somewhere. I am at a loss and without someone who knows what to do actually sees this happening, just describing it won't help. When I back it out of my garage for the night, it will stop, but like I said the pedel goes straight to the floor. I think just changing the MC again will help. Never doing this my self again. Thanks again.

-Shawn
 






Try putting the original master back in... or did you return it for a core? You should not have to loose money on it, take the darn thing back and demand another one. You wouldn't be the first to get a bad rebuilt part. Or if the junkyard one works, then just ask for your money back. I got my money back for the bad one I got.

One other thought, I doubt your bleeding technique is the problem, since you have fluid squirting out of the master, but I just want to make sure you are doing it right.

What procedure are you using for bleeding it? It seems to me like you are just opening up the bleeder and pressing the pedal a few times and then closing it. (since you talk about fluid squirting out) If that's what you're doing then you're not getting all the air out because it is being sucked back in when you let off the pedal. You need one of those one man brake bleeder things, which is a hose that goes into a jar, so that if the fluid tries to flow back, it gets more fluid from the jar and not air. If you can get another person, (which is how I do it) it will be even better. The other person need not be mechanically inclined or anything.

Have the other person sit in the driver's seat. You go to the farthest away brake and put a hose on it that goes into a jar with some fluid in it.

Now yell to the person in the driver's seat and tell them to press the brakes. When the pedal is like 3/4 of the way down, they should know to yell to you.

Then you open the bleeder screw and leave it open until they yell that they are at the floor, then you close it. Then once it's closed, you yell back and they let up on the pedal and the whole process repeats, and once the air is gone you move to the next closer one.


-Ted
 






Thanks for the info. Didn't know I could do that. Anyway I hope the JY one will work since the whole thing is still together, well as long as the system wasn't open to the weather that is. Worth a try anyways.

-Shawn
 






were you trying to bleed the brakes by yourself with no self bleeder kit?
 






Good news to everyone that has been helping me. After a trip to the good ole JY, I picked up a used MC with all the bells and whistles, bench bled according to the manuals, hooked it up, bled the wheels and back on the road again. Thanx again for everyone that tried to point me in the right direction. Now just to return the "new" MC back to where it came from and I should be good.

Thanx again
-shawn
 






i am still curious about the bleeding procedure you were using at the beginning and at the end.
 






Bled from the MC first just to make sure, then move to RR, LR, RF then LF. Just followed the Hames and Chilton manuals. Kept hearing a swooshing sound like the booster was leeking and then my wife noticed the fliud getting pushed back into the resevoir, so just went from there.
 






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