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EB Cruise Button Repair

C420sailor

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 29, 2008
Messages
2,316
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1,891
City, State
Long Island, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT SOHC, 99 EB 5.0L
My '99 EB has the 'fancy' wheel with the cruise, HVAC, and radio controls in it. It's nice, but finding parts sucks. Unlike the XLT/XLS wheels, no new cruise control switches are available, leaving only used switches on eBay.

My cruise didn't work when I got the truck, and I traced it to the 'ON' button not activating the system (via the diagnostic test). I ordered a replacement button unit on eBay for about $40. Cruise worked!

Well, that win lasted about 9 months.

I pulled the "new" button unit out, split it open, and started probing with my digital multimeter. The button itself was good, so I started checking for continuity between the second connector pin from the bottom (just to the right of "C2" and the lower solder joint (1) on SW1. No continuity. I checked for continuity between that pin and C3. Checked good. Checked between C3 and the switch solder joint---no continuity.

I had a bad trace between C3 and SW1---the trace that runs down the right edge of the board.


09EF7953-D2EF-4F78-B11B-0DA448773A7F.jpeg


If you look closely, you'll see a '3' next to SW1. Zoom in and you'll see a broken trace. This trace was actually corrosion green, and I scraped it away just before taking this photo. Corrosion got to the trace and ate through it, breaking the circuit to the ON button (SW1).

I decided to attempt to fix it, as this seemed to be a common failure, and spending another $40 for a failing button unit didn't seem smart. I took a small piece of stranded wire, approximately 22AWG (I think) and cut it to perfect length and soldered it from contact 1 on SW1 to the right side of C3.


2F80FCC5-FC64-476C-B650-E0AD9D445B29.jpeg


As you can see, my PCB soldering skills aren't good. I've got a 20 year old super basic Radio Shack iron, no magnifying glass, and the solder I was using was WAY too thick. If you've got a proper soldering station with thin solder, you can make this solder job look professional.

Regardless, be careful to not bridge contact 1 with the metal switch case or any other contacts/joints/etc. You're connecting SW1 contact 1 to the right side of C3 ONLY.

I reassembled everything, threw it in the truck, and it passed the diagnostic with flying colors!
 






Nice job
 






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