How to Diagnose Lower Control Arm Bushing Failure?

[Runamuk13]

Before I take a "leap of faith" and spend approx $200 on new Lower Control Arms, is there a way to diagnose the bushing failure?

My 2011 EX with 99,000 miles has a pretty strong shimmy during hard braking at 60-65 mph. Most obvious when braking on freeway exit. I don't have any other symptoms - no clunking, no thumbing, no vibration, no shimmy while driving, just this strong shimmy while braking.

Lots of posts in the forum point to the lower control arm bushing with the suggested fix is to replace the entire lower control arm because it includes new bushing and ball joint.

My LCA Bushings seem stiffer/tighter than hell. With the car on jack stands and a floor jack slightly lifting the front suspension to take the weight off the LCA, I can't feel any movement in the bearing when prying with a crowbar.

Front brake rotors are an obvious place to look for shimmy while braking. Using a dial indicator, both rotors have .002" runout. Sure, .000" would be great, but would 2 thousandths runout cause a stong shimmy?

All other front suspension parts feel tight.

So I'm looking for any ideas to diagnose a possible lower control arm bushing failure?

 

[Gary Crist]

You say "shimmy", what is moving? Is the steering wheel
reacting, brake pedal,dash or what?

 

[Runamuk13]

You say "shimmy", what is moving? Is the steering wheel
reacting, brake pedal,dash or what?

It feels like the entire front of the car is moving and I feel it in the steering wheel.
I can't really say that I feel it in the brake pedal, but it's hard to tell as the whole front of the car is moving and, perhaps, masking any noticeable brake pedal vibration.

 

[xartic]

Have you checked your wheel bearings lately? I discovered my rear driver side had some play to it when I was replacing the pads and rotors and ordered a Timken hub.

 

[Runamuk13]

Have you checked your wheel bearings lately?

While I had the car in the air, I grabbed each front tire and tried to move it back and forth both horizontally and vertically. Nothing. No movement. I'm not sure that's a valid way to check wheel bearings, but everything felt tight.

 

[Gary Crist]

For your consideration....

THE REAL TRUTH ABOUT WARPED BRAKE ROTORS

The REAL truth about warped brake rotors... The typical situation: New pads are fitted to a new pair of brake discs. A week later there’s a vibration or “judder” when the brakes are applied. A call to a mechanically inclined friend and an online search offers the diagnosis—the brake rotors are...

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[JohnelP]

Many years ago, a mechanic showed me the following method to test wheel bearing. Raise the car to have the wheel under test free. Spin the wheel. If the wheel spins smooth, most likely the wheel bearing is fine. For my car (with the faulty wheel bearing), the spin was not smooth. It had like a grinding noise and the spin was bumpy/rough. Best is compare with the opposite wheel to see if there is any difference, as bearings do not fail simultaneously on both sides. While driving, it is a bit hard to diagnose due to road noise.

Now, going back to the lower control arm bushing. Last November, during the state inspection, the mechanic lifted the car because he heard a noise. I did not hear any noise. He did. He just told me the lower control arm bushing was gone. 10k miles later (a.k.a today), I thought to address the control arm. I got the part from Ford and started to zoom in on this procedure. Lifted both front wheels. As you did, I tried to do the wheel grab at 6 and 12 o'clock check. It was stiff as a rock. The 3 and 9 o'clock grab shake was moving a lot the steering chassis. When i was wobbling the wheel, my wife said the steering wheel was moving a lot. However, there was no play in the bushing. In fact the wheel is so big and heavy, that I doubt this kind of checks can be done properly. ,Maybe for a Fiesta or Focus, yes. As they are light. Anyway, since i bought already the part, i decided to change it still.

Got the 24mm wrench for the ball joint nut, and it is too loose. 23 mm does not fit. So I guess it may be 15/16 SAE, but since when a 2013 explorer model uses SAE parts? Decided to postpone the game to try the SAE wrench, but it does not sound right.

 

[Odrapnew]

15/16 is the correct size for the ball joint nut. I just replaced both my front control arms a few weeks ago due to the control arm bushing failing. The front bushing bolt is 13/16" and the bolts and nuts for the rear bushing are 15mm and 18mm i believe..

I felt clunking in my feet at slow "parking lot" speeds. Control arms replaced and clunk is gone. Front end feels much more solid.

I did have to get the front end aligned, but I also had the rear toe link recall done so i had the dealer do the front at the same time (only charged for front alignment).

 

[SHUMAX]

Before I take a "leap of faith" and spend approx $200 on new Lower Control Arms, is there a way to diagnose the bushing failure?

My 2011 EX with 99,000 miles has a pretty strong shimmy during hard braking at 60-65 mph. Most obvious when braking on freeway exit. I don't have any other symptoms - no clunking, no thumbing, no vibration, no shimmy while driving, just this strong shimmy while braking.

Lots of posts in the forum point to the lower control arm bushing with the suggested fix is to replace the entire lower control arm because it includes new bushing and ball joint.

My LCA Bushings seem stiffer/tighter than hell. With the car on jack stands and a floor jack slightly lifting the front suspension to take the weight off the LCA, I can't feel any movement in the bearing when prying with a crowbar.

Front brake rotors are an obvious place to look for shimmy while braking. Using a dial indicator, both rotors have .002" runout. Sure, .000" would be great, but would 2 thousandths runout cause a stong shimmy?

All other front suspension parts feel tight.

So I'm looking for any ideas to diagnose a possible lower control arm bushing failure?

With those miles? 100% it's the LCA's. I know it's hard - I've been there, trust me. Spend the $ and buy OEM parts - NOT MOOG and move on. You will not miss the $ in two months and will be so much happier. Been there, done that and wish I had the tee shirt!

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

With those miles? 100% it's the LCA's. I know it's hard - I've been there, trust me. Spend the $ and buy OEM parts - NOT MOOG and move on. You will not miss the $ in two months and will be so much happier. Been there, done that and wish I had the tee shirt!

Replacing both CA after 148k miles, with Motorcraft. Leak on PS, torn on DS. Probably past due. Picking it up tomorrow.

 

[Jordan E.]

With those miles? 100% it's the LCA's. I know it's hard - I've been there, trust me. Spend the $ and buy OEM parts - NOT MOOG and move on. You will not miss the $ in two months and will be so much happier. Been there, done that and wish I had the tee shirt!

I've got 110K miles on my 2013 explorer.
After the state inspection, the mechanic passed me. He said the "steering is loose" and is 90% sure it is the lower control arm on the passenger side.

Since it was just a state inspection, he didn't do a full analysis of the issue. I don't see anything visibly wrong with the control arms / joints, but it definitely drives loose compared to my new explorer.

Does this sounds right? - Is this the normal cause of loose steering?
AND
At over 100K miles, should I change both sides at the same time?

 

[SHUMAX]

I've got 110K miles on my 2013 explorer.
After the state inspection, the mechanic passed me. He said the "steering is loose" and is 90% sure it is the lower control arm on the passenger side.

Since it was just a state inspection, he didn't do a full analysis of the issue. I don't see anything visibly wrong with the control arms / joints, but it definitely drives loose compared to my new explorer.

Does this sounds right? - Is this the normal cause of loose steering?
AND
At over 100K miles, should I change both sides at the same time?

I changed mine long before that. It's a weak spot in the front suspension. If the tie rods are tight, that's what I would suspect - LCA's. Yes, I would replace both. I would use OEM parts and find an independent to perform the work. It's tempting to try a part like Moog. Don't. I did on my Edge and they didn't last a year. I was out more $ for the labor to replace them with the OEM part. Once replaced, it will feel 'tight' again and be quieter. Like a new car...

Shumax