Odd Cooling System Phenomenon | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Odd Cooling System Phenomenon

Well lets breathe some life back into this thread for thoose who have yet to find a solution to there problems....

I have a 98 4.0 OHV (Pushrod) engine... Ill start from the very beginning and all ts i have done up to date to give yall a good idea of where i stand...

In the beginning i ran perfect was driving down the road when the truck overheated and pressure caused the Radiator to crack this is a 2door sport 5 speed that had a single core radiator in it... I went to the local junk yard and the only radiator i could manage to find in a vehicle was out of a 4 door eddie bauer so i replaced the single core with a a Dual core radiator with automatic hooks ups and a tow package so essiential put a radiator in it that will allow me to pull anything and not over heat as it has enough radiator to keep the fluids cool....(or so you would think).... i also put in a new fail safe thermostat from autozone (unsure of brand) along with a new radiator cap.... After putting theese new parts in the vehicle when driving down the road the truck would not warm up to previous state and barely had any heat coming out of my vents... As well most of my driving is on the highway if i took the engine above 2000 rpms the temperture cage would completely drop down past the c on the gauge... So i burped, blurped, bleed, did everthing imaginable to get all air out of my coolant system with no resolutions.... So i figured i had a bad thermostat and pulled the fail safe out took back and got a regular thermostat (from autozone) and unplugged my temp sending unit.... with this new setup my truck would warm up much quicker to operating tempertures and blow good heat... as long as i kept the engine below 2000 rpms and then if i went above i would loose everything all engine temp would drop... until oneday i lost heat all together i figured i had a clog in my heater core somewhere so i plug my sending unit back in and i i have nothing upon driving a 45 min 30 mile drive i got out popped the hood and i could literally reach under and touch cap and it was cold and the egine it self was barely luke warm... Once again i change the thermostat feed up with autozone i go to napa for the replacement and when i pulled the thermostat the pin in the middle had acutally jumped out its seat and i was basicly just having constant flow not allowing the vehicle to warm up.... so i put the new thermostat into the vehicle and re-burb bleed and all that good stuff and the truck is finally warming up to normal operating temperture and i have good heat in the cab of the truck... still lossing engine temp above 2 grand but able to climb back up if i slowed down... then i got the newest the truck overheated on me and i was back to square one... upon inspection of this happening the upper and lower radiator hoses had collapsed on them selves and the overflow tank was not completely full the cap had blown off and i had fluid all under the hood of my truck... released the pressure and filled the truck back up with fluid and rebleed the system... now at a first start up the truck will warm up to normal temp in a resonable amount of time and run there for a for about 10 minutes and then slowly will climb and peg out the gauge and my check guage light comes on usually i can press the clutch and rev a couple times to go beyond 2500 -3000 rpms and the temperture will fall back down... im ats my wits end with truck and cant figure what is causing this issue to persist.... every since it overheated the first time i started to get running conditions that resemble miss firing of the cycliders... driving down the road almost seeming like lack of fuel when you give it gas to go or running down the high way it will sorta miss...and jerk as if it dead fires... i do have cel on throwing a coolant temp circuit code as well as a camshaft position sensor.. i went to check the timing of the engine with a timing light and when on the 1 cylinder the lines are no where near the marker on the harmonic balancer yet the truck is running perfectly fine when at idle and has good throttle response when in neautral and just revving the engine... the miss fires and jerks are not as bad when the vehicle is running at good tempertures which was leading me to believe that this was an issue with the fuel mixture running rich as the operating temp was not where it needed to be.... yet i cant figure out exactly where the timing is running.. my heater control valve does not work as the vacumm line is broken and i have yet to find the other end of where it goes to repair... (this only cuts of flow to heater core to prevent internal heat when it is not in use no big deal has been like this since i bought the truck and was running fine prior to overheating)...

BREEEEEAAAAATHHHHH

Any opinions on this?

*Am i having the issue with the water pump?
*Do I need to manufactuer this by-pass system?
*Could i really have still be getting faulty thermostats?(Third Times A Charm)

This only other thing not mentioned here was that about a month or two prior to all issues starting the truck was rolled on to its side in a ditch as to an idiot cutting me off and me swerving to keep from hitting him truck was still running when it stopped and i shut it off automaticlly and let sit for about 20 minutes while putting a spare on and checked to make sure all oil had feel back to the bottom of the engine and no mixture of fluids had occured prior to restarting and driving it on to work (Explorers are definately tough little trucks) so with all that said i am going to attempt to cathc my breath from this long winded post...

After this.. Current running conditions

Warms up to operating temp and then will graudally climb to a over heat and then settle back down to operating temps. Dont loose as much heat over 2000 rpm. still has the occasional not as bad as before jerk/misfire mostly during warm up temps still have the cel going to run codes tonight and clear to see if the same ones come back or if they change

Any suggestions and advice will be taken with wide open arms and i wll donate a steak dinner to anyone who can resolve this situation
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Oh yes... and if i can manage to get the running conditions figured out and striaghtend out i could possibly find a donor truck to put the engine in which the only reason i am still driving the truck that and wit hit being the 2door 5 speed i got great milage usually around 23 any help would be great
 






man i have no idea really. I do recomend motorcraft parts when working on the cooling system of these trucks though. As you might have figured out they are very touchy it seems. When reving it over 2 grand and it cools down makes no sense though.. All I can think of is either the radiator you got is plugged not alowing adequate flow or your water pump went bad and isn't flowing enough.. This is a REALLY weird problem..
 






So today i used prestone coolant system superflush and flushed out the coolant system and managed to get all the rust and calcium build up in the system out of it... If had the water pump going out i would think i would be having a heat issue on the inside of the cab and not getting adequate flow of fluid to the heater core... After the flush i did today i put the truck up on a set of ramps and filled the coolant system back up and and i burbed and got all the air out of the system possible if there is air still left in the coolant system it is locked in tight and does not want to come out... i have figured out that the jerking and the missing is in fact my cam shaft postion sensor i have yet to get the part and fix that tho as the only codes the truck is throwing now is a random missfire and a cmps sensor error... so i am going to be replacing that soon enough... as for the cooling system today when i did the flush and bleed i also replaced the heater control valve as the lower inlet of the heater control valve broke off causing all the fluid to leak out of the truck and leave me laying on the side of the road.... so i put a manual valve in place on the inlet side and put the outlet hoses together with (i know is rigged but its how i got home and its holding so why fix what aint broke???? but i used a deep well socket to put the hoses together).... now it is staying at operating temps even above 2000 rpm with just the occasional small drop when you can tell the thermostat is opening the only issue left now is the occasional temp peaking out at the red and now cooling back down leaving me to think i have either air still stuck in the system some where or i have sticky thermostat that aint opening correctly????
 






the lower inlet of the heater control valve broke off causing all the fluid to leak out of the truck and leave me laying on the side of the road.... so i put a manual valve in place on the inlet side and put the outlet hoses together with (i know is rigged but its how i got home and its holding so why fix what aint broke???? but i used a deep well socket to put the hoses together).... ??

Good field expedient! If you want to get your socket back, a short lenght of 1/2" copper pipe also works great!!
 






Bringing back an old thread. I'm having a similiar issue. The truck gets to normal operating temperature if I let it idle or freeway driving but if I'm driving around town the temp will slowly decrease but never to C. It would decrease slightly and get up to temp again.
I don't have any heat problems since it gets pretty toasty.
Does any one have an idea what the issue might be? The truck overheated in the past and caused the heads to crack by the original owner but it was rebuilt if that has any thing to do with it.
 






Back
Top