Puking ATF after long drive, but then no leaks HELP

[bruce119]

93X 2wd A4LD I did have some overheating issues last year. I got that under control. I got a temp gauge in the pan. I only seem to have an issue when I run a long trip or run in stop and go for a long day. It will puke some fluid I thought I mite have it under control but it happen again the other day the temp on the trany got up to about 195 not over 200. But it has puked real bad before (3-4 months ago) 3-4 quarts to the point I couldn't drive.

Any thoughts, is it time for a rebuild I have 178,000 miles live in Florida. It's fine around town but I want to go to N.C. in the mountains but I don't trust the trans. It doesn't leak a drop once the puking stops dripping.

I thought I read the A4ld when it overheats pushes fluid out a vent on the top of the trans.

So some thoughts and input...is there something I can do to help this I would think 200 should not cause it to puke fluid and it normally runs about 185. When stressed like a long hill or hard acceleration is when it mite get close to 200.

I have a 185 thermostat water temp is rock solid never goes over 185 now. Got a cooler and I run two 7" pusher fans in front of the oil cooler and condenser. Oh and of coarse problem only shows in summer when A/C is on.

Any help, ideas, explanations what is going on or should I start saving for a rebuild....

Thanks
Bruce from Florida

 

[BrooklynBay]

The front seal blowing out on the highway is very common. The extra heat from the A/C condenser contributes to this issue. Check the coolant level in the radiator, fan clutch, and the flow of coolant in the radiator. Make sure that there is no junk clogging any of the passage ways in the radiator. If you plan on removing the transmission at a later date, then have a new bushing machined into the bellhousing with a special lathe. Don't pop a new bushing into the bellhousing without cutting it into place. The bushing has to be concentric. I'm only aware of two places in the USA which provide this service. It's also possible to enlarge the passage in the bellhousing with a drill bit.

 

[bruce119]

The front seal blowing out on the highway is very common. The extra heat from the A/C condenser contributes to this issue. Check the coolant level in the radiator, fan clutch, and the flow of coolant in the radiator. Make sure that there is no junk clogging any of the passage ways in the radiator. If you plan on removing the transmission at a later date, then have a new bushing machined into the bellhousing with a special lathe. Don't pop a new bushing into the bellhousing without cutting it into place. The bushing has to be concentric. I'm only aware of two places in the USA which provide this service. It's also possible to enlarge the passage in the bellhousing with a drill bit.

Thanks, I'm trying to get more educated before I go to a shop. I did have some overheat issues last year BUT I believe I solved those. Complete rebuild cooling system...Rad, pump, fan/clutch, heater core, hoses whole 9 yards. Same thing on A/C new condenser and evaporator also did all that work myself in driveway. Got a new "Torqflo/Transmission oil cooler" to replace the stock one in front. Put two 7" pusher fans one on condenser one on ATF cooler. Put a temp gauge in got the sending unit in pan.

This last trip (3 days ago) the trany mite have got up to 195-200 here and there mainly stayed below 185. The engine water temp stayed put at 185. Should 200 cause fluid to push out should I still be chasing heat maybe another cooler somewhere????

OK now I can't do trany work that's a little beyond me now. No lift too old to lye on my back for too long. So my main thing is too get educated before I go to a shop.

Front seal hmmm thought that when it first happen. But after the puddel there wasn't a drip for months until it did it again then same thing again. My thinking was if you blew the seal wouldn't it leak???

So the question, when I go to a shop say AAMCO (I would want a reliable national warranty) What should I be concerned with. If they recommend a rebuild what should I ask.

About machining the bushing to fit...what would a shop do. I'm sure places like AAMCO do a lot of A4LD rebuilds?? Doesn't sound like it would be standard to fit/cut the bushing. What would a shop do, should I ask about it. My thinking is that if a bushing is pressed in properly there shouldn't be an issue.

Any more thoughts like I said just trying to educated.

Thanks for the help.
Bruce

 

[BrooklynBay]

The seal blows out from overheated fluid, then resets, and goes back into position. The metal part of the seal never moves out of place since it's pressed into the bellhousing. Keep in mind that anything hot will expand, then contract when it cools.

As a general rule, any shop will try to talk you into a full rebuild if you need it or not. They will quote you a price for a soft parts rebuild, then when they open it up, the price will go up because they will give you a list of hard parts which need to be replaced.

Any local shop will have to send the bellhousing out since they don't have a lathe for cutting the bushing into place. Pressing a bushing into place isn't recommended since it's not going to be concentric. The most that they could do is enlarge the fluid passage going into the front seal with a drill bit.

 

[bruce119]

OK I get that about the fluid blowing past the seal and then the seal resealing.

So the thing now is why it's overheating. I show maybe just getting just over 195-200 (in the pan temp) is when it mite blow I never saw it hit say 210. So maybe the seal is weak from the first time it overheated a year ago (which was probably much hotter?? when I had overheat problems)

I would think 200 would not be considered overheated. I do realize 200 is hot but normal opp. temp is I think 195-198 I got a 185 thermostat in now.

I do have some shifting issues biggest is that on first start up of day when cold it doesn't like to shift. It hangs in 1st I have to manually shift to 1st and then shift into drive. After that it shifts just fine.

I did about 3 fluid changes over the winter (pulling the pan) just adding the 5 quarts to top off. The fluid was dark like coffee and there was a lot of sludge in the pan. Do you think a complete flush would help.

I will listen and take any tips I can get.
Thanks for the help
Bruce

 

[BrooklynBay]

You might have a sticking governor. 1st gear sticks until it warms up, then it's fine. It's possible to replace while the transmission is in the vehicle. Replace the governor, and get a Sonnax 35 MM weight.

As for the front seal, you will have to remove the transmission to fix it. If you decide to do it, then have a place like Omega Machine replace the seal, bushing, and enlarge the orifice going into the front seal.

I also recommend replacing the rear main seal on the engine, and the crankshaft to flexplate spacer. The OEM spacer is made out of powdered iron. Sonnax makes a better one out of billet steel.