Radio /dimmer wiring and electrical help

[LOCKONS7RA7US]

So i have a 92 explorer with a electric fan installed and had power coming off the old compressor wire since i did a ac delete. a while back and recently came up with some electrical crap .

found out that when running the electric fan on the old ac power that it draws too much and when i go to put it into gear either reverse or drive it drain the battery to the point where it's going to die . when i say ac power the line that was connected to the compressor ( i believe purple with a red stripe ? ) with the ac button pushed in and the toggle switch moved over to max ac i use that power source . but running the heater and fan now on during the cooler time of year boggs the motor down to the point where i can't stop the car or else it will die ...

i also found out when trying to fix other electrical problems that my dimmer switch is connected to my aftermarket radio .. and don't know how that is >? i have power to the radio (constant 12+ -- light green w/ yellow stripe) and i also switched it the power prior from the cigarette lighter ( blue w/ red stripe ?) and had the same effect with the dimmer switch able to dim all the way down and kill power to the radio but done have any dim wire or illumination hooked up to radio . just power and your standard speaker wiring .

i guess long story short i need help trying to find a new 12v ignition power source for the electrical fan and get it off the blower circuit entirely . Also figure out why the **** the dimmer is switch is hooked up to the power source on the radio . trying to eliminate that since it should be a thing to begin with in efforts to try and narrow a possible power draining solution .


so far all i have done aftermarket electrical is fog lights on bumper and on hood so 4 fog lights both sets have their own fuses , switches , and power from battery .
then i have the electric fan . basically the set up from monster cooling . the fan comes with thermostat switch and its own relay . 12v power from ignition to thermostat switch then once switch is at temp is sends that power to relay to kick fan on . since i have that switch in the block ( being ground on block ) the dash thermostat i have in the heater core line with its own ground wire wrapped around it into the inner fender to read temp on the dash( i will be swapping them here soon to get rid of extra ground cable .

aftermarket radio from autozone ..

nothing to fancy but any and all help with the electrical gremlin will be much appreciated .

 

[Mbrooks420]

Run an entirely new fused wire from the battery, and run it through a relay that’s triggered by whatever decides whether or not the fan runs.

The radio illumination is on the orange wire. Just disconnect what’s hooked to the orange and it should go full brightness.

 

[LOCKONS7RA7US]

okay .. electrical is not my best suite.. but so far thank you for the info on the radio illumination bit easy fix thanks.

the picture provided is what i can go off of for what am currently using for the electric fan. I'm already using a relay for it 60 amp automotive replay.

yellow -- 12v ignition from thermostat switch

green & / blue - power to fan ( blue for dual fan setup n/a for me )

red - power from battery

black-- ground ( inner fender / chassis )

white - bypass wire



thermostat switch has 2 leads in and a out yellow wire is the 12v out and the other being the in is where i need a new 12 v ignition power source in...

so knowing that i already have this 5 point relay .. how does what you said apply
"Run an entirely new fused wire from the battery, and run it through a relay that’s triggered by whatever decides whether or not the fan runs."

do i need to run another relay or use the same one and run a new fuse power wire to temperature switch .. sorry im a visual person ..


more pics to follow with actual car pics

 

[Mbrooks420]

You are going to power the coil for the relay with the thermostat. When you hit your turn on target temp the temp switch closes, and powers the relays coil. The relay closes, and power goes to the fan. Motor cools, temp switch opens and the power is cut to the fan.

 

[Nadams01]

So i have a 92 explorer with a electric fan installed and had power coming off the old compressor wire since i did a ac delete. a while back and recently came up with some electrical crap .

found out that when running the electric fan on the old ac power that it draws too much and when i go to put it into gear either reverse or drive it drain the battery to the point where it's going to die . when i say ac power the line that was connected to the compressor ( i believe purple with a red stripe ? ) with the ac button pushed in and the toggle switch moved over to max ac i use that power source . but running the heater and fan now on during the cooler time of year boggs the motor down to the point where i can't stop the car or else it will die ...

i also found out when trying to fix other electrical problems that my dimmer switch is connected to my aftermarket radio .. and don't know how that is >? i have power to the radio (constant 12+ -- light green w/ yellow stripe) and i also switched it the power prior from the cigarette lighter ( blue w/ red stripe ?) and had the same effect with the dimmer switch able to dim all the way down and kill power to the radio but done have any dim wire or illumination hooked up to radio . just power and your standard speaker wiring .

i guess long story short i need help trying to find a new 12v ignition power source for the electrical fan and get it off the blower circuit entirely . Also figure out why the **** the dimmer is switch is hooked up to the power source on the radio . trying to eliminate that since it should be a thing to begin with in efforts to try and narrow a possible power draining solution .


so far all i have done aftermarket electrical is fog lights on bumper and on hood so 4 fog lights both sets have their own fuses , switches , and power from battery .
then i have the electric fan . basically the set up from monster cooling . the fan comes with thermostat switch and its own relay . 12v power from ignition to thermostat switch then once switch is at temp is sends that power to relay to kick fan on . since i have that switch in the block ( being ground on block ) the dash thermostat i have in the heater core line with its own ground wire wrapped around it into the inner fender to read temp on the dash( i will be swapping them here soon to get rid of extra ground cable .

aftermarket radio from autozone ..

nothing to fancy but any and all help with the electrical gremlin will be much appreciated .

So i have a 92 explorer with a electric fan installed and had power coming off the old compressor wire since i did a ac delete. a while back and recently came up with some electrical crap .

found out that when running the electric fan on the old ac power that it draws too much and when i go to put it into gear either reverse or drive it drain the battery to the point where it's going to die . when i say ac power the line that was connected to the compressor ( i believe purple with a red stripe ? ) with the ac button pushed in and the toggle switch moved over to max ac i use that power source . but running the heater and fan now on during the cooler time of year boggs the motor down to the point where i can't stop the car or else it will die ...

i also found out when trying to fix other electrical problems that my dimmer switch is connected to my aftermarket radio .. and don't know how that is >? i have power to the radio (constant 12+ -- light green w/ yellow stripe) and i also switched it the power prior from the cigarette lighter ( blue w/ red stripe ?) and had the same effect with the dimmer switch able to dim all the way down and kill power to the radio but done have any dim wire or illumination hooked up to radio . just power and your standard speaker wiring .

i guess long story short i need help trying to find a new 12v ignition power source for the electrical fan and get it off the blower circuit entirely . Also figure out why the **** the dimmer is switch is hooked up to the power source on the radio . trying to eliminate that since it should be a thing to begin with in efforts to try and narrow a possible power draining solution .


so far all i have done aftermarket electrical is fog lights on bumper and on hood so 4 fog lights both sets have their own fuses , switches , and power from battery .
then i have the electric fan . basically the set up from monster cooling . the fan comes with thermostat switch and its own relay . 12v power from ignition to thermostat switch then once switch is at temp is sends that power to relay to kick fan on . since i have that switch in the block ( being ground on block ) the dash thermostat i have in the heater core line with its own ground wire wrapped around it into the inner fender to read temp on the dash( i will be swapping them here soon to get rid of extra ground cable .

aftermarket radio from autozone ..

nothing to fancy but any and all help with the electrical gremlin will be much appreciated .

I think you may have it backwards. I just wired up a gauge using some wiring in the dash. Yellow black is switched 12v or ignition and the blue red or purple red is your illumination circuit. The colors of the wires are for each circuit are unique and are not repeated.