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radius arm bushing order

Xeek

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Joined
March 21, 2010
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City, State
Virginia Beach, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 xlt
before the lift my radius arm bushings were fine. now they seem loose. just confirming i put the bushings in the right order.
this side never changed from before.
IMG_20130501_194655_zpsa86bb0ee.jpg


backside, not sure:
IMG_20130501_194720_zps911a63f7.jpg

IMG_20130501_194811_zps4c7b7f59.jpg

IMG_20130501_194940_zps739e6312.jpg
 



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Well of course they're loose, look at the slop the inner bushing has. You might want to spring for new bushings if you want a tight bushing setup.

Is that a big rubber washer between the tan/white bushing and the thick metal washer, or is it just another washer?

Using a smaller but still thick big metal washer behind the factory one can make a difference too, and keep the lock washer from bottoming out on the factory threads, which aren't deep enough. I suppose the rubber spacer, if that's what it is, is a better idea for trail rigs or where you want the setup to be snug but still flexy.
 






Another trick to get it tighter once you get new bushings is to double up on the front washer.

Basically when you get your new bushing kit with hardware you will keep the old curved washer.

Now the order for the parts from front to back will be...
Curved washer installed backwards
Curved washer installed normally
Bushing
Cross Member
Bushing Ring looking thing
Bushing
Washer
Nut.

By doing this you not only get the Bushing tighter you also move the axle forward a little bit.

This helped keep the tire out of the back of the wheel well before I took the sawzall to the fender.

One thing to watch for though is the clearance between the front washer (backwards one) and the nut/bolt that is holding the cross member to the frame. When we had the duff lift kit the washer could hit one of the mount bolts. I just cut down the washer so it wasn't as tall to take care of it.

~Mark
 






anime, yes i see what you mean by the slop, but thats cause i had full weight on the truck when i took the bushing apart for pics. thats not the issue. the issue is how you guys are discribing adding another washer.
as if the nut cant tighten down far enough is the problem. looks like ill go grab a few of those flat washers and space them out more.

mark, i definitely dont want my axle moved forward lol. if anything id want it moved back. im closer to rubbing the bumper then my untouched fenders.


thanks guys
 






The bushing in the second picture is worn and ready to be replaced. It shouldn't be oval, even with weight on it.

The last picture, I assume you haven't tightened the nut? It should bottom the washer onto the shoulder of the RA stud (where the threads end).
 






mark, i definitely dont want my axle moved forward lol. if anything id want it moved back. im closer to rubbing the bumper then my untouched fenders.


thanks guys

In that case you could double up the washer on the nut side BUT you need to make sure the center hole on the washer is big enough to go over the shoulder part of the RA. If its not big enough it won't be helping...

Also, keep in mind I was always using the Moog Problem Solver RA bushings which are rubber so they squish better than the poly ones. From the pics it looks like your using rubber so the extra washer should be ok..

~Mark
 






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