Alarm took control of my car!!!! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Alarm took control of my car!!!!

Lacky01

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 18, 2008
Messages
748
Reaction score
1
City, State
Eugene, Oregon
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Sport
Well, as of last week, my car hasn't started. wont crank over, wont even "click-click"!!! nothing.

I've tried testing fuses, relays, the battery, the starter and the solenoid; all good.

I've disabled the clutch switch, thinking that that was keeping the truck from starting but that made no difference.

I am convinced that the aftermarket alarm is the culprit and am gonna rip it out! ...in a clean and orderly manner, so as to not screw anything up or make it worse! wish me luck, throw me advice, or let me know I'm doing something stupid.
Ill take pics as I go and let y'all know if it works. I want my explorer back!:(
 



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My 99 x sport had an aftermarket alarm too...

I bought my Sport and the previous owner had an alarm that I pulled and the truck would do strangeness and not run worth a damn....

When I pulled the alarm the truck did not start thanks to the wiring hack job done to the vehicle.. They cut into the start circuit and stepped down to smaller gauge because ???? There were some shorted wires as well and some relays taped together that were part of the system...

My truck did not come with keyless entry but when I bought it I did not get the fobs for the alarm so this alarm is getting yanked out...

And I spent the better part of a day correcting the mess that this alarm install caused... And now I am installing a new keyless entry system that will be much better installed than the last one..
 






just pulled the stupid thing out. still wont start.

is there supposed to be a relay installed with the alarm that will disable the starter solenoid if the alarm is tripped? I haven't found one.
 












Dang, I have an alarm, and remote start, separate in my 92, never had a problem like that, when my alarm was going off, the car wouldnt start, but when it wasnt chirping it was fine,

good luck man
 












still confused, how do I tell if my PATS module is working or not?

when I turn the key to start, I hear a relay-type click that seems to be coming from an ominous black box behind and to the left of my radio. that seems like the PATS "brain", but I'm not sure.

all I am sure of is I dont have any power going to activate the solenoid when I try to start.
 






still confused, how do I tell if my PATS module is working or not?

when I turn the key to start, I hear a relay-type click that seems to be coming from an ominous black box behind and to the left of my radio. that seems like the PATS "brain", but I'm not sure.

all I am sure of is I dont have any power going to activate the solenoid when I try to start.

...I would ask that question in the other thread...I beleive he would have an answer for you...Let is know of your results back here...
 






"PATS uses a visual theft indicator located on top of the instrument panel. This
indicator will prove out for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned to ON
or START under normal operation. If there is a PATS problem, this indicator will
either flash rapidly or glow steadily (for more than three seconds) when the ignition
switch is turned to ON or START. PATS also "flashes" the theft indicator every two
seconds at ignition OFF to act as a visual theft deterrent."
 






Troubleshooting:

The engine does not start and LED remains off.
1. Check PATS system fuses
2. If alarm is fitted check if LED functions for alarm: if not check cigar lighter fuse (also used for LED)
3. If not go to main dealer
Engine does not start: LED flashes rapidly Leave ignition on until the LED starts to flash a 2 digit code: (sequence- pause-sequence)
Check the following codes:
Code flashes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to main dealer
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to main dealer
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key as above using master
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV Go to dealer .
 






thanks fixxer, however the "theft" LED is signifying normal operation.

I'm gonna check once more to make sure I have power getting to the solenoid, cuz I just checked and I have power on the blue/red wire in the steering column when the key is turned to start.

Ha! that sentence makes me sound like a third grader! :p:
 






ok, Well this problem is kinda gettin me down so I think I'll go through the whole problem from the start.

cue musicians; enter stage left:

0123091315.jpg

(when it ran)

well it the problem appeared twice before it left me stranded. clutch in, key to start. nothing. clutch out, clutch in, key to start, Vroom! did this to me twice, so I assumed to clutch switch was doing something funky. the very next day, I go to start it, nothing. I try pumping the clutch, flippin switches, sit down, stand up, spin around. wont start. so I do the normal tests: battery good?, check! terminals look ok? NO!! negetive lead has massive corrosion. clean it up real good and check that the wire is not corroded within? check! power to solenoid? check! (however, If I bridge the two load terminals on the solenoid, the starter motor turns, but the engine doesn't crank. and, there is no power at the switch wire on the solenoid.) fuses all good? check! clutch switch operating? NOT SURE!!* PATS functioning normally? check! Aftermarket alarms not interfering? Also NOT SURE!!** All relays working properly? I THINK so? one of them was really warm after we pulled it out, but we had activated it probably 50 times.***

Those are the things we've covered so far, we have got to be overlooking something!!


*In order to find out if the clutch-safety-switch-thing was working, I decided to bypass it altogether. I think this was a bad idea. I put a scotch-lok on the pink and white/pink wires to short it out, but nothing changed, so I pulled the scotch off and it broke one of the wires. :mad: so I repaired it with a butt-connector. hopefully its in good working order now.

DSC_0501-1.jpg

bad pic, but you can see where I was messing with it.

* I wasn't sure if the aftermarket alarm was inhibiting the use of my exploder or not, so I pulled it out. I didn't like it anyway. everytime I turned off my truck the locks would cycle two or three times. it sucked.

Before:
0404091830.jpg


After:
0404091859-1.jpg

0404091900.jpg

DSC_0506.jpg


if anyone can see an error in my troubleshooting, or can point out something I missed, please let me know. or talk about it behind my back long enough for the rumor to circle back to me.

I would like my truck running and CAN'T afford any shop.
 












...All I can say is I would look deeper at a couple things...(Your battery and main cables I'm sure you have already looked into)

1) Key and ignition switch
2) Clutch switch
3) PATS...and also if it had a remote start on your alarm..

...This is from the thread I previously linked...
"The PATS is not compatible with aftermarket remote start systems, which allow the
vehicle to be started from outside the vehicle. These systems may reduce the vehicle
security level, and also may cause no-start issues. Remote start systems must be
removed before investigation of PATS-related no-start issues."
 












Had this exact same problem. After yanking out the alarm you have to hit you starter with a hammer. tahdah and you fixed
 






I cannot tell if that is sarcastic or not! part of me thinks it'll work, and part of me would be scared of hitting a $150 part with a hammer. :rolleyes:
 






Im being serious. Sometimes the alarm will jam the plunger in the starter. The clicking noise you here is the relay for the starter meaning you have power to the starter and that it is just stuck and not engaging. Also, while you down there shake the connections to the starter. I don't mean beat the all living hell out of it but a few good taps to it will unstick the plunger..
 









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Can you post a picture of the wiring under the column? Especially any cut larger diameter wires? I ask because that POS alarm unit was tied into the starter circuit under the column and when I pulled it out the truck would not turn over or start.. I traced the wires that had been cut to re-connect them and found what had been altered to stop the truck from starting...

I will look under the dash to see if I can find the wires that were cut on my truck.. One problem.. My truck is an automatic....
 






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