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My turbocharged 2000 5.0 AWD....

I just wanted to show off my DIY remote build. The truck is an AWD 2000 5.0 Explorer. - I like to think of it as an AWD SUV Mustang:) This truck actually was lifted with tube bumpers, safari rack, and 32" ATs on 20" wheels just a few months ago- it has undergone a big transformation here lately. It is now lowered slightly in the front with the rear at stock height(with sagging springs). I kept the same wheels but put smaller tires on them and added 2" spacers. Now onto the turbo...

The Turbo is a T04E 57trim which turned out to be perfect for remote mounting. It is a little small if one wanted 10psi+, but I planned on 6psi max and fast spool. I am using the stock exhaust with muffler delete to the turbo, then a 3" mandrel bent tailpipe. In the tailpipe is my AEM wideband o2 sensor. For charge pipe, I bought a 2" mandrel bent intercooler kit along with some 2" pipe from my local muffler shop. For couplers, I am using cut pieces of 2" ID radiator hose. It can be bought from Advance Auto pretty cheaply- I got one piece that was a large 90 for $13 and had some left over. I just cut it into the desired length with a bandsaw. The charge pipe goes to a 2" to 2.5" steel adapter, then into a 2.5" to 3" silicone coupler from AutoZone. This coupler feeds into my 3" BOV adapter then into the 3" mandrel bend aluminum pipe leading into the engine bay. I brought the 3" down pretty far to try and eliminate turbulence in the MAF.

I am using an STS oil pump to return the oil back to the oil filler neck. I got the pump from an STS dealer who upgraded a customers car to their high volume pump. I am using the nipple that originally had the vent hose to the intake for the oil return fitting- I am using a vented push in oil cap to make up for it. It was alot easier this way than tapping the oil cap like STS does.

I haven't had it tuned yet but it will break the tires loose from a rolling start in 1st gear(remember, I am AWD), and I have full boost almost immediately. I already have a 6psi spring for the wastegate that will go in when I put on the 30lb injectors and Cobra fuel pump.


Here are the pictures and it you have any questions just ask.
 

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Yeah I saw the STS on HPTV or TGG and loved it until I saw the price. 3 grand for a universal kit and 5 grand for model specific, OUCH!

I've been debating 347 stroker or reomte turbo. My only question is your charge pipe up to the TB. Would that routing work on a non lifted truck? I'm concerned about clearance between the HVAC case and the wheel weel splash shield.

Their universal kit is $3000, but that is with a Garrett turbo- and no intake tubing. The Power Master turbos are what alot of the turbo Mustang guys are using and are great quality for half the price of a Garrett. If you wanted to do it even cheaper, find a junkyard that has diesel trucks and find yourself a Holset HY35 or HX35 off of a late model Cummins Dodge.

I am in the process of finding a tuner. I want to take it to Bamachips( in Birmingham) but that is pretty far to drive. I dont know of any tuners around me in north Mississippi- especially one that will have an AWD dyno.
 



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Yeah I saw the STS on HPTV or TGG and loved it until I saw the price. 3 grand for a universal kit and 5 grand for model specific, OUCH!

I've been debating 347 stroker or reomte turbo. My only question is your charge pipe up to the TB. Would that routing work on a non lifted truck? I'm concerned about clearance between the HVAC case and the wheel weel splash shield.

My truck is lowered 2" and it fits fine. I cut a little section out of the splash shield and ran it between it and the HVAC unit. It fits, but my tire rubs a little on sharp turns- alot of that is because of me being lowered on the 20's with 30" tires. I could probably tweak it a little for a better fit but I just havent worried about it. I am using 3" pipe through there also.
 






Keep us posted. Interesting! I wish I could completely understand the compressor maps. I probably could but haven't dedicated the time to it. But to me they are a little confusing.
 






Awsome, great work. i saw this kit on horsepower tv i think they put it on a vett good system
 






Cool, thank you for getting back to me on this. I have some thinking to do this month on which direction I want to go.


My truck is lowered 2" and it fits fine. I cut a little section out of the splash shield and ran it between it and the HVAC unit. It fits, but my tire rubs a little on sharp turns- alot of that is because of me being lowered on the 20's with 30" tires. I could probably tweak it a little for a better fit but I just havent worried about it. I am using 3" pipe through there also.
 






I guess I need to give an update. I got the new turbo installed, and it turns out it was spooling a little late because the turbine housing slightly too large. To remedy this problem I cut a blockoff plate out of billet aluminum to partially block off one scroll of the turbine- so it forces more exhaust through the other scroll making it spool much faster. I see boost by 2000RPM in 2nd gear like I wanted.

This new turbo, being much larger, is a freakin beast. The sound of the turbo almost drowns out my exhaust note(loud). I will get some videos on here soon. If it stops raining, I'll get them today.

I am shooting for 8spi for now, which will put me at almost 400horsepower to the ground. I could easily put over 500AWHP down(turbo is good for 625), that would be really stressing my shortblock.
 






Awesome. I would love to ride in that beast. I love the feel of an all wheel drive off the line.
 






I am shooting for 8spi for now, which will put me at almost 400horsepower to the ground. I could easily put over 500AWHP down(turbo is good for 625), that would be really stressing my shortblock.


400rwhp through stocker internals and an stock Explorer 302 block is asking for trouble. Good luck with it. I suggest you have a SPOT ON tune and make sure you never get bad gas and don't beat the truck at all.

Also even though the turbo is good for flowing enough air to make 625 hp doesn't mean that your heads are. My KB 2.2 supercharger is good for 850hp but stocker heads don't flow near enough to take advantage of it which is why I am limited to around 525-550rwhp on stock heads. You can throw most boost at restrictive stocker heads and to an extent you will see more power but there will be a saturation point where your heatsoak will be so high that your power will flatline or even start to drop off.
 






400rwhp through stocker internals and an stock Explorer 302 block is asking for trouble. Good luck with it. I suggest you have a SPOT ON tune and make sure you never get bad gas and don't beat the truck at all.

Also even though the turbo is good for flowing enough air to make 625 hp doesn't mean that your heads are. My KB 2.2 supercharger is good for 850hp but stocker heads don't flow near enough to take advantage of it which is why I am limited to around 525-550rwhp on stock heads. You can throw most boost at restrictive stocker heads and to an extent you will see more power but there will be a saturation point where your heatsoak will be so high that your power will flatline or even start to drop off.


There are tons of Mustang guys putting 500+whp through stock longblocks with E7 and Gt40,P heads. One guy on turbomustangs that is claiming 625 with a completely stock Explorer longblock in a Fox body- I keep waiting for his " I jut blew my engine" thread though :) . I know at these levels I'd be stressing the engine more than a lighter Mustang though.

I do agree that the heads will become a flow restriction, but it isnt going to happen at my power goal level. I know I could make the same power with less boost with a better flowing head, but I can overcome that with a few PSI. That is what I love about turbo, all I have to do is push a button to raise the boost.

I am confident that my engine will hold up w/ 400whp. I plan on keeping the tune VERY safe, being easy on the timing.
 












Not to take sides with anyone but I've always heard that a stock 5.0 will hold A LOT of boost. I think I remember hearing 20 LBS or so. Now, that's just what I've heard, and don't know how true it is.

Yes, it's always better to be on the safe side and I think that's what Rocket is trying to say. But, I think that if you're careful, and pay attention to the fine details, (Like when you hear a ping, get the heck of the throttle) you should be good for 200LBS of boost. kidding

On the other hand, I hate to see threads turn out with a BOOM at the end.
 












Not to take sides with anyone but I've always heard that a stock 5.0 will hold A LOT of boost. I think I remember hearing 20 LBS or so. Now, that's just what I've heard, and don't know how true it is.

Who ever told you that was smoking a pipe with ALOT of illegal substance in it. It is the total opposite. A stocker 5.0 will usually handle about 9 psi on a supercharger and be ok. Some special cases have pushed it past that but on that average that is what it is. Pushrods aren't usually as boost friendly as the modular Ford engines. However, the modulars tend to lack torque where as the pushrods, tending to be larger in displacement are known for more torque. That goes especially true for the lower rev range for the pushrods in general.

Yes, it's always better to be on the safe side and I think that's what Rocket is trying to say.

What I said was not meant for the "safe side" of things. It was more towards, I have seen stocker Explorer internals grenade at that hp level before. The block will go VERY soon thereafter if a connecting rods doesn't punch a hole through the block first.


But, I think that if you're careful, and pay attention to the fine details, (Like when you hear a ping, get the heck of the throttle)

That is easier said than done sometimes. A stock bottom end doesn't frequently offer much warning before giving up the ghost.


On the other hand, I hate to see threads turn out with a BOOM at the end.


The biggest mistake that I see people make when building a vehicle for more power is they get caught up in "what power am I capable of making?"... They need to ask themselves, "What power am I actually built for?" People tend to see what boost of power their supercharger, turbo, or nitrous can add and forget about what their combo can support. There are usually 8 factors that I look at to determine whether a combo can support the power you want to make.

1) Can the rotating assy handle it?
2) Can the heads flow it?
3) Can the air/fuel system support it?
4) Can the tranny hold it?
5) Can the driveshaft and rear hold it?
6) Do I have all the rest of the supporting mods to logically make it?
7) Can I hook it to the pavement?
8) Can I really afford to do steps 1-6 the RIGHT way and not halfass it?

Now the 7th one does not have to do with the power in itself, but if your building a vehicle for power then why not be able to put it to the ground instead of just putting on a good smoke show? Also the 7th factor has alot to do with driving, though somewhat with suspension and ties also. I see buddies of mine with 480rwhp Cobras that are only in the low 12's because they cannot drive their car well enough to put the power to the pavement.

If a person asks themselves those 8 questions and all of them TRUTHFULLY come up with a yes answer then they are probably ready for that much power. :thumbsup:
 






I agree with everything Rocket said, but I believe the stock Explorer longblock can handle a little more abuse than you give it credit for. Yeah, 9-10psi is probably close to the limit with a supercharger, but I am not stressing the crank like a supercharger would. I actually have a video of an '03 Cobra shearing the balancer off from the superchargers load at 15psi. And yes, stock internals can go without warning, but alot of times they hold up.

If it doesnt hold up, THEN I'll go with a forged rotating assembly with my AFR's and Man O' War block.
 






Rocket knows to freaken much not to be making any money.
 






I agree with everything Rocket said, but I believe the stock Explorer longblock can handle a little more abuse than you give it credit for.

Um, you do realize that before I had a built 4.6 I had a modded all to hell 5.0 Explorer :roll: , with a custom one-off XB-1A supercharger on it right? I still remember quite a bit about them. I think your closer to your limit than you may think.

Yeah, 9-10psi is probably close to the limit with a supercharger, but I am not stressing the crank like a supercharger would. I actually have a video of an '03 Cobra shearing the balancer off from the superchargers load at 15psi.

I wasn't referring to the crank itself at all. I was referring to the pistons and connecting rods, and then the block itself. You may have a vid of an 03 Cobra shearing its balancer but that is a VERY anamalous event right there which give no real grounds for scientific comparison. My bet is that the Cobra most likely have a Cog driven setup to even be able to do that anyways.

And yes, stock internals can go without warning, but alot of times they hold up.

The "alot of times they hold up" can only be based upon particular combos and definately is not a generality as there are way too many variables that people create when moddinng a vehicle with any number of approaches. I am not saying that your throwing caution to the wind, but just be careful and don't expect for your stocker shortblock to last more than a season or two with lots of luck while running close to 400rwhp regardless of what your "mustang buddies" say. I really hope this truck isn't your daily driver!

If it doesnt hold up, THEN I'll go with a forged rotating assembly with my AFR's and Man O' War block.


Those who know me understand that while I do tend to overbuild things to make sure I only have to buy things once, I also have a risky side too. I am not being overly cautious when I said what I did about your stocker 5.0 bottom end. I am saying that because I have seen it happen before, turbo, supercharger and nitrous alike. Right close to 400rwhp is pretty much the limit for a stocker 5.0 on a supercharger or nitrous off the line. Right at 400rwhp with a turbo or progressive shot of nitrous. I wish you the best of luck and hope that your stocker survives for a while but I do feel that you may be upgrading to that man o' war block and forged internals sooner than you think. If that truck is your DD then I highly suggest that you have money in hand ready for that new shortblock just in case. In the world of FI there is little margin for error. Heck, sometimes even when no error has been made there are still kabooms that happen. Good luck man, forge it, fuel it, tranny it and boost it to all hell!
 












And always carry the camera with you, so we can see the video of it when it let's go.:D



+1... Just suction cup a video cam inside your truck with a mic in the engine bay. :D
 









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That's just wrong.....Wait a minute, It is cool to see things blow up when their not yours? However, I don't want to see Justins ride blow up...

Okay, So I guess the guy that told me that the 5.0 could handle 20 LBS of boost stock is a crack head. That's just great. Oh well, I barely know him.

The only thing that doesn't make sense to me is; A stock 4.0 can handle (Unsafely) as much as 12 LBS stock, OR is this more false information? This is NOT safe as I believe the engine finally went not to long ago. I know the 4.0 SOHC design is not as good as the 5.0. With that being said, I guess the difference is the push rods vs cams? I'm just trying to learn here...
 






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