Mtn8er
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- August 5, 2006
- Messages
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- City, State
- Portland, OR
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98' Mountaineer 5.0
Well I just recently installed a set of FMS 1.6 pedestal mount roller rocker arms on my 98' Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L so I decided to do a "How To" thread. I know Section525 already did this but his was with a cam install also. Here's the link for his write up with a cam install...http://www.section525.com/xpage/camshaft/index.html
This write up is a little more in depth of just your basic rocker arm install. So if any of you guys just want to install rocker arms and not a cam, this could help. Remember this is for the 5.0L V8 with the stock GT40P heads, stock upper/lower intake manifold and stock camshaft/valve springs. I already have an FMS 1" phenolic heat spacer installed, part# M-9486-A53, which is what you'll need if you wanted to install 1.7 rocker arms because you'll need taller valve covers which wont clear the upper intake unless you have the spacer. Other than that my valvetrain is all stock "FOR NOW" all I'm doing in this write up is rocker arms/pushrods.
Parts That You'll Need:
Ford Motorsport 1.6 pedestal mount rocker arms, part# FMS-M-6564-B351, or your preferred brand. I got mine new on Ebay for $161.00 w/shipping, just keep your eyes open. Price from Summit: $329.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6564-B351/
COMP Cams High Energy pushrods, part# CCA-7826-16. It's always a good idea to upgrade your stock pushrods period. Get rid of the stockers and throw in these Comp universal pushrods while you're in there. These are the same size as the stock. Price from Summit: $32.75
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-7826-16/
Ford Racing valve cover gaskets, part# FMS-M-6584-A50. Price from Summit: $26.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6584-A50/
Fel-Pro intake manifold gaskets, part# FEL-MS95953. These are sold indivdually so you'll need 2 of them. Price from Summit: $7.95 x2 = $15.90
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-MS95953/
Ford Racing shim kit just in case you need them. It's better to be safe than sorry so get them just in case. I bought them but ended up not needing them. FMS part# FMS-M-6529-A302. Price from Summit: $8.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6529-A302/
IF you're installing 1.7 rocker arms you'll need taller valve covers and a 1" phenolic heat spacer. I would install this regardless, even if your installing 1.6 rocker arms. Ford claims it adds another 5-10 hp. I felt like it had a little more torque. If you do decide to get this, you can get this Trick Flow 1" spacer from Summit, part# TFS-51520020 with gaskets and bolts needed. Price from Summit: $69.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51520020/
Note: This is for a Mustang so if you notice in the picture you only get the 2 longer bolts and 4 shorter bolts needed. For our Explorers/Mountaineers you actually need 4 longer bolts and 2 shorter bolts. I would call Summit and tell them what you need, I'm sure they can get you the correct bolts.
Total cost from Summit = $484.45 w/phenolic spacer. Without the spacer it's $414.50
Last but not least, a Haynes manual if you don't already have one that way you can have all the proper torque settings and TOOLS! If you don't have a torque wrench that can torque from at least 10 lbs. and up then go get one. You'll also need a fuel line disconnect tool. Just like what you would use for changing your fuel filter to disconnect the lines but you'll need a bigger size than that. Get one of those cheap plastic variety packs.
This is pretty much all you'll need to do the install. Since your not changing the cam there is no need to change out your stock valve springs, the lift will still be the same. If you have more than 150K miles, then that's something you might want to look into but I wouldn't worry about it. I have 118K miles and I didn't bother, no need. If you want more lift with the stock cam then you might want to look into getting 1.7 rockers. Just remember you'll need taller valve covers if you do which means you'll also need to install a 1" phenolic heat spacer for clearance. For the spacer you'll have to modify a few brackets to get it to work. I went ahead and installed new Ford Racing valve covers (which are a little taller than the stock covers) just to make sure my new FMS 1.6 rockers wont hit my stock covers. Better to be safe than sorry, plus they look WAY better, check Ebay.
Before I started this project I soaked my new rocker arms in a bowl of ATF oil over night. You can also use motor oil but it's a good idea to do this at least a couple hours before you start.
Pushrods:
Step 1: First thing you need to do is remove your air intake tube, throttle cables from throttle body, Spark plug wires from your coil packs, coil bracket (to remove your coil packs, no need to unbolt them from the bracket), and all the vacuum hoses from the upper manifold. If you can't get the hoses that's behind the intake just wait until you remove it, then you'll be able to get your hands back there. If you have the EGR hook-up you'll need to unbolt that as well. Last but not least, remove all 6 bolts that hold on your upper manifold and remove it.
This is what it should look like after your upper intake manifold is removed. You can see my 1" phenolic spacer sitting there.
Step 2: Next, release the pressure in your fuel system by pressing in the little valve on the passenger side fuel rail and disconnect the 2 fuel lines that run along the drivers side valve cover that way you can move them out of the way.
Step 3: Unbolt and remove your stock valve covers. If they have never been removed you'll most likely need to pry them off using a big screwdriver. Just get it underneath the valve cover and pry away. This is what it should look like once they're removed.
Step 4: Next thing you'll need to do is find top dead center (TDC) for #1 cylinder. If you look down at your crank you should see a little timing marker and on the crank you'll see some numbers. You'll probably have to take a rag like I did to whipe the crank clean in order to see the numbers. You'll see it says something like 30, 20, 10, 0, -10. You basically put a ratchet/socket on the crank and turn the crank from right to left (drivers side to passengers side). You want the number 0 that's on the crank lined up with the timing marker. If it's to hard for you to turn the crank then remove your spark plugs to relieve some compression. You almost need 2 people for this so one guy can turn the crank from underneath and the other guy can tell you when the 0 is lined up with the marker. If you are still unsure on how to do this you can refer to the Haynes manual.
Once you find TDC for #1 cylinder you are now ready to remove the cylinder #1 rocker arms. You should be able to spin both the pushrods in your fingers. If you can't then you're not at TDC #1.
Step 5: Once you unbolt and remove your stock rocker arms/pushrods, grab 2 of your new COMP Cams pushrods and dab the tips on both ends in your oil/ATF that your rocker arms are soaking in and put them in. Now take 2 of your new rocker arms/bolts/mounting hardware and put them on. Finger tighten the rocker arm bolts to 0 lash which means you can spin the pushrods in your fingers but you cannot move the rocker arm up or down. Once you have them both at 0 lash, torque both the rocker arm bolts to 17 ft. lbs. That should take anywhere from 1/4 - 1 full turn. If it takes more than one full turn to reach the correct torque then you'll need to use your shims. If not, well at least you had them just in case. Once you have them both torqued down DO NOT move on until you are able to spin your new pushrods freely in your hand. You might have to wait 5 minutes or so until you are able to spin them. They should loosen up though.
Here's what your first set should look like...
Step 6: Now, all you do is find TDC in firing order from here on and repeat step 5. Simply, turn the crank from right to left just a little at a time and you'll see your next set of rockers(which would be cylinder #3) move downward. You'll know your at TDC on that cylinder when your able to spin the stock pushrods in your hand freely.
Here's what it should look like after your done repeating step 5 and your new rockers/pushrods are on cylinder #3.
Keep doing this in firing order until you're done and they are all on. It'll look like this when complete:
Once all the new rockers/pushrods are on, put your valve covers back on and crank the motor to listen for the rockers making contact with the valve covers. If you hear nothing then your good to go and start putting everything back together. Make sure you clean all the areas where gaskets are used and use your new gaskets. Here are my new valve covers that I scored off Ebay....
Passenger side:
Driver's side:
FMS Rockers installed and completed!
If anyone has any questions then go ahead and PM me. Good Luck!
This write up is a little more in depth of just your basic rocker arm install. So if any of you guys just want to install rocker arms and not a cam, this could help. Remember this is for the 5.0L V8 with the stock GT40P heads, stock upper/lower intake manifold and stock camshaft/valve springs. I already have an FMS 1" phenolic heat spacer installed, part# M-9486-A53, which is what you'll need if you wanted to install 1.7 rocker arms because you'll need taller valve covers which wont clear the upper intake unless you have the spacer. Other than that my valvetrain is all stock "FOR NOW" all I'm doing in this write up is rocker arms/pushrods.
Parts That You'll Need:
Ford Motorsport 1.6 pedestal mount rocker arms, part# FMS-M-6564-B351, or your preferred brand. I got mine new on Ebay for $161.00 w/shipping, just keep your eyes open. Price from Summit: $329.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6564-B351/
COMP Cams High Energy pushrods, part# CCA-7826-16. It's always a good idea to upgrade your stock pushrods period. Get rid of the stockers and throw in these Comp universal pushrods while you're in there. These are the same size as the stock. Price from Summit: $32.75
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-7826-16/
Ford Racing valve cover gaskets, part# FMS-M-6584-A50. Price from Summit: $26.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6584-A50/
Fel-Pro intake manifold gaskets, part# FEL-MS95953. These are sold indivdually so you'll need 2 of them. Price from Summit: $7.95 x2 = $15.90
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-MS95953/
Ford Racing shim kit just in case you need them. It's better to be safe than sorry so get them just in case. I bought them but ended up not needing them. FMS part# FMS-M-6529-A302. Price from Summit: $8.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6529-A302/
IF you're installing 1.7 rocker arms you'll need taller valve covers and a 1" phenolic heat spacer. I would install this regardless, even if your installing 1.6 rocker arms. Ford claims it adds another 5-10 hp. I felt like it had a little more torque. If you do decide to get this, you can get this Trick Flow 1" spacer from Summit, part# TFS-51520020 with gaskets and bolts needed. Price from Summit: $69.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51520020/
Note: This is for a Mustang so if you notice in the picture you only get the 2 longer bolts and 4 shorter bolts needed. For our Explorers/Mountaineers you actually need 4 longer bolts and 2 shorter bolts. I would call Summit and tell them what you need, I'm sure they can get you the correct bolts.
Total cost from Summit = $484.45 w/phenolic spacer. Without the spacer it's $414.50
Last but not least, a Haynes manual if you don't already have one that way you can have all the proper torque settings and TOOLS! If you don't have a torque wrench that can torque from at least 10 lbs. and up then go get one. You'll also need a fuel line disconnect tool. Just like what you would use for changing your fuel filter to disconnect the lines but you'll need a bigger size than that. Get one of those cheap plastic variety packs.
This is pretty much all you'll need to do the install. Since your not changing the cam there is no need to change out your stock valve springs, the lift will still be the same. If you have more than 150K miles, then that's something you might want to look into but I wouldn't worry about it. I have 118K miles and I didn't bother, no need. If you want more lift with the stock cam then you might want to look into getting 1.7 rockers. Just remember you'll need taller valve covers if you do which means you'll also need to install a 1" phenolic heat spacer for clearance. For the spacer you'll have to modify a few brackets to get it to work. I went ahead and installed new Ford Racing valve covers (which are a little taller than the stock covers) just to make sure my new FMS 1.6 rockers wont hit my stock covers. Better to be safe than sorry, plus they look WAY better, check Ebay.
Before I started this project I soaked my new rocker arms in a bowl of ATF oil over night. You can also use motor oil but it's a good idea to do this at least a couple hours before you start.
Pushrods:
Step 1: First thing you need to do is remove your air intake tube, throttle cables from throttle body, Spark plug wires from your coil packs, coil bracket (to remove your coil packs, no need to unbolt them from the bracket), and all the vacuum hoses from the upper manifold. If you can't get the hoses that's behind the intake just wait until you remove it, then you'll be able to get your hands back there. If you have the EGR hook-up you'll need to unbolt that as well. Last but not least, remove all 6 bolts that hold on your upper manifold and remove it.
This is what it should look like after your upper intake manifold is removed. You can see my 1" phenolic spacer sitting there.
Step 2: Next, release the pressure in your fuel system by pressing in the little valve on the passenger side fuel rail and disconnect the 2 fuel lines that run along the drivers side valve cover that way you can move them out of the way.
Step 3: Unbolt and remove your stock valve covers. If they have never been removed you'll most likely need to pry them off using a big screwdriver. Just get it underneath the valve cover and pry away. This is what it should look like once they're removed.
Step 4: Next thing you'll need to do is find top dead center (TDC) for #1 cylinder. If you look down at your crank you should see a little timing marker and on the crank you'll see some numbers. You'll probably have to take a rag like I did to whipe the crank clean in order to see the numbers. You'll see it says something like 30, 20, 10, 0, -10. You basically put a ratchet/socket on the crank and turn the crank from right to left (drivers side to passengers side). You want the number 0 that's on the crank lined up with the timing marker. If it's to hard for you to turn the crank then remove your spark plugs to relieve some compression. You almost need 2 people for this so one guy can turn the crank from underneath and the other guy can tell you when the 0 is lined up with the marker. If you are still unsure on how to do this you can refer to the Haynes manual.
Once you find TDC for #1 cylinder you are now ready to remove the cylinder #1 rocker arms. You should be able to spin both the pushrods in your fingers. If you can't then you're not at TDC #1.
Step 5: Once you unbolt and remove your stock rocker arms/pushrods, grab 2 of your new COMP Cams pushrods and dab the tips on both ends in your oil/ATF that your rocker arms are soaking in and put them in. Now take 2 of your new rocker arms/bolts/mounting hardware and put them on. Finger tighten the rocker arm bolts to 0 lash which means you can spin the pushrods in your fingers but you cannot move the rocker arm up or down. Once you have them both at 0 lash, torque both the rocker arm bolts to 17 ft. lbs. That should take anywhere from 1/4 - 1 full turn. If it takes more than one full turn to reach the correct torque then you'll need to use your shims. If not, well at least you had them just in case. Once you have them both torqued down DO NOT move on until you are able to spin your new pushrods freely in your hand. You might have to wait 5 minutes or so until you are able to spin them. They should loosen up though.
Here's what your first set should look like...
Step 6: Now, all you do is find TDC in firing order from here on and repeat step 5. Simply, turn the crank from right to left just a little at a time and you'll see your next set of rockers(which would be cylinder #3) move downward. You'll know your at TDC on that cylinder when your able to spin the stock pushrods in your hand freely.
Here's what it should look like after your done repeating step 5 and your new rockers/pushrods are on cylinder #3.
Keep doing this in firing order until you're done and they are all on. It'll look like this when complete:
Once all the new rockers/pushrods are on, put your valve covers back on and crank the motor to listen for the rockers making contact with the valve covers. If you hear nothing then your good to go and start putting everything back together. Make sure you clean all the areas where gaskets are used and use your new gaskets. Here are my new valve covers that I scored off Ebay....
Passenger side:
Driver's side:
FMS Rockers installed and completed!
If anyone has any questions then go ahead and PM me. Good Luck!
