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- 2012 F150 4x4
Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures) Now with Video!
I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to change my passenger side lower ball joint today, so I took some pictures as I went for the benefit of others.
Start by going to Auto Zone and getting their loan a tool ball joint press. I was charged $99 + Tax for the one I had, but all that is returned when you return the tool. A pretty good deal.
I highly recommend Moog suspension parts, they appear to be far superior to others.
As always, begin by parking the truck on a flat level surface and set the parking brake.
Pop the center cap, loosen the lug nuts, remove the CV axle nut. A 32mm socket is needed. Jack up the front end, support it with a jack stand.
Remove the brake caliper, it is held on by 2 15mm bolts, they should be very tight. Hang the caliper from a piece of wire or zip tie, never let it hang from the brake hose.
Remove the dust shield, it is held on by 3 8mm bolts.
Then remove the ABS sensor bolt, then remove the bolt in the clip that holds the wire to the knuckle.
Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end, then remove the castle nut.
Knock the ball joint loose from the knuckle and tie it up out of the way.
Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint and remove the castle nut.
Remove the pinch bolt at the top of the knuckle, it takes two 15mm wrenches. A punch may be needed to knock the bolt out. A swift whack upwards with a hammer on the upper control arm will help break it free.
With that, the knuckle should come free, if not a few blows with a hammer should free it. Remove the knuckle, leaving the hub assembly on it.
Tie the CV axle out of the way, or remove it. I chose to leave mine in place so that I didn't loose any gear oil out of the front diff.
With that out of the way, remove the snap ring. Needle nose pliers work, but special pliers are made especially for snap rings.
Remove the grease Zerk and set the press in place. The lower collar should go around the outside of the ball joint, the end or tip of the ball joint should go through the hole in the bottom plate. Penetrating oil may help if your parts are rusty or corroded.
A 22mm wrench fit the hex top of the press perfectly, I had to use a cheater wrench to pull the bolt around to press the joint down.
You can see in this picture the joint is moved down slightly.
After it got going, it went pretty easily-
Thats it! The old ball joint is out.
To install the new one, leave the Zerk off for now. Find the collar that fits just on the outside edge of the ball joint. Put the round plate with the larger hole at the bottom of the collar. Under that plate put the largest collar. It seems strange, but when you see what it does, it will make sense.
Start the ball joint into the arm, put the collar assembly against the bottom, then raise a jack up, pushing up on the ball joint. Raise the jack enough to load the suspension, then with a hammer, tap the arm, my ball joint went right into place. Make sure the snap ring groove is fully visible.
Notice the use of a jackstand to support the truck.
I also try to put the tire I remove under the truck in a place where if the truck falls for some reason, it won't fall flat on the ground.
Snap ring and grease Zerk installed.
Slip the CV axle splines in the hub, then put the lower ball joint through the knuckle, start the castle nut.
Put the upper ball joint in the knuckle, slip the pinch bolt through, tighten the upper bolt up, then the lower nut and install the cotter pin.
Put the tie rod end back through the knuckle, tighten the nut and install the cotter pin.
Put the ABS sensor back in the hub, tighten the bolt that holds it in. Put the clip on the back of the knuckle that holds the ABS wire as well. Install the dust shield.
Put the rotor back on the hub, reinstall the caliper. Make certain to tighten the bolts very tight. Some blue locktite is a good idea as well.
Put the wheel back on the studs, tighten the lug nuts as tight as possible with the wheel off the ground. Start the CV axle nut.
Raise the truck to take the weight off of the jackstand, remove the jackstand, lower the jack.
Tighten the CV axle nut, it should be very tight, use a breaker bar to torque it.
Tighten the lug nuts and replace the center cap.
Thats it!
The tools I used:
I have received several PM's and e-mails thanking me for this write up, I appreciate them all. Please feel free to continue to do so but also remember this:
The best thing you can do to show your appreciation is spend $20 and be an elite member. All these pictures and pages have to be hosted somewhere, web hosting and site software all cost money. None of this would be possible without Rick's time, efforts and money.......
http://www.explorer4x4.com/elite.html
I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to change my passenger side lower ball joint today, so I took some pictures as I went for the benefit of others.
Start by going to Auto Zone and getting their loan a tool ball joint press. I was charged $99 + Tax for the one I had, but all that is returned when you return the tool. A pretty good deal.
I highly recommend Moog suspension parts, they appear to be far superior to others.
As always, begin by parking the truck on a flat level surface and set the parking brake.
Pop the center cap, loosen the lug nuts, remove the CV axle nut. A 32mm socket is needed. Jack up the front end, support it with a jack stand.
Remove the brake caliper, it is held on by 2 15mm bolts, they should be very tight. Hang the caliper from a piece of wire or zip tie, never let it hang from the brake hose.
Remove the dust shield, it is held on by 3 8mm bolts.
Then remove the ABS sensor bolt, then remove the bolt in the clip that holds the wire to the knuckle.
Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end, then remove the castle nut.
Knock the ball joint loose from the knuckle and tie it up out of the way.
Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint and remove the castle nut.
Remove the pinch bolt at the top of the knuckle, it takes two 15mm wrenches. A punch may be needed to knock the bolt out. A swift whack upwards with a hammer on the upper control arm will help break it free.
With that, the knuckle should come free, if not a few blows with a hammer should free it. Remove the knuckle, leaving the hub assembly on it.
Tie the CV axle out of the way, or remove it. I chose to leave mine in place so that I didn't loose any gear oil out of the front diff.
With that out of the way, remove the snap ring. Needle nose pliers work, but special pliers are made especially for snap rings.
Remove the grease Zerk and set the press in place. The lower collar should go around the outside of the ball joint, the end or tip of the ball joint should go through the hole in the bottom plate. Penetrating oil may help if your parts are rusty or corroded.
A 22mm wrench fit the hex top of the press perfectly, I had to use a cheater wrench to pull the bolt around to press the joint down.
You can see in this picture the joint is moved down slightly.
After it got going, it went pretty easily-
Thats it! The old ball joint is out.
To install the new one, leave the Zerk off for now. Find the collar that fits just on the outside edge of the ball joint. Put the round plate with the larger hole at the bottom of the collar. Under that plate put the largest collar. It seems strange, but when you see what it does, it will make sense.
Start the ball joint into the arm, put the collar assembly against the bottom, then raise a jack up, pushing up on the ball joint. Raise the jack enough to load the suspension, then with a hammer, tap the arm, my ball joint went right into place. Make sure the snap ring groove is fully visible.
Notice the use of a jackstand to support the truck.
I also try to put the tire I remove under the truck in a place where if the truck falls for some reason, it won't fall flat on the ground.
Snap ring and grease Zerk installed.
Slip the CV axle splines in the hub, then put the lower ball joint through the knuckle, start the castle nut.
Put the upper ball joint in the knuckle, slip the pinch bolt through, tighten the upper bolt up, then the lower nut and install the cotter pin.
Put the tie rod end back through the knuckle, tighten the nut and install the cotter pin.
Put the ABS sensor back in the hub, tighten the bolt that holds it in. Put the clip on the back of the knuckle that holds the ABS wire as well. Install the dust shield.
Put the rotor back on the hub, reinstall the caliper. Make certain to tighten the bolts very tight. Some blue locktite is a good idea as well.
Put the wheel back on the studs, tighten the lug nuts as tight as possible with the wheel off the ground. Start the CV axle nut.
Raise the truck to take the weight off of the jackstand, remove the jackstand, lower the jack.
Tighten the CV axle nut, it should be very tight, use a breaker bar to torque it.
Tighten the lug nuts and replace the center cap.
Thats it!
The tools I used:
I have received several PM's and e-mails thanking me for this write up, I appreciate them all. Please feel free to continue to do so but also remember this:
The best thing you can do to show your appreciation is spend $20 and be an elite member. All these pictures and pages have to be hosted somewhere, web hosting and site software all cost money. None of this would be possible without Rick's time, efforts and money.......
http://www.explorer4x4.com/elite.html