After browsing around for quite a while in search of answers I finally came across what I needed: someone that has already done the remote job on a 5.0 Explorer... I own a Ranger that we've converted over to the EFI 5.0 from the Explorer, and now I'm in search of more power, and need a few questions answered. This pickup is my daily driver; it needs to be dependable. I don't strip race, but I don't turn down the "Friday night stoplight run" either. Flamers please go somewhere else; I really need educated and solid advice:
Forced Induction definitely seemed like a good step, but after hunting down multiple superchargers, I don't want to spend that much. Running a remote turbo appears far more feasible, as I have more than enough access to build a large part of it (tubing bends and whatnot); what I can't build I can get at dealer cost/super-cheap-nonetheless.
First and foremost: what turbo? The most popular response seems to be the HX or HY35 from the mid/late 90's Cummins; here lately I've seen complaints that this ISN'T the most effective option. I've also toyed with the idea of running twin turbo's, like a pair from a 1.8T Jetta or similar. However, I know certain turbo's have pieces of manifold molded in, and therefore won't work. The way my exhaust is done I have lots of room and the piping would be easy to work in for a twin turbo setup. But, in the interest of efficiency and reliability, the best option is _______?
Most superchargers for the Explorers are pushing about 6-7psi boost; 6.5psi wastegate ok? 6psi max boost seems decent for the crank and bottom end in a 'xplorer 5.0. Also, does the HX/Y35 run an internal wastegate like Jetta's and whatnot, or do I need a seperate wastegate? From the sounds of it I need to run a seperate wastegate to keep from overboosting. At this point I'm leaning towards a seperate wastegate as a reassurance.
Injectors or no injectors? I've read that the 19# stock injectors will work. "Will work" doesn't satisfy me though... am I going to be lean at full throttle or will it be ok? We have some good hills in Idaho and I don't need to be going lean partway up. Will the MAF be ok or does it need changed out as well? The Lightning/Mustang MAF seems a popular option; if I'm changing injectors then this might as well go too. Being my daily driver, I don't want to worry about having a lean meltdown.
Now... the computer: my Ranger is pre-OBD2, where the Explorer is OBD2. As such, we had to bypass things like the Evap test for the gas tank and whatnot; the computer also still thinks the truck is an automatic with an automatic transfer case. (We live in the mud and snow; I prefer manual hubs and a manual t-case. I also prefer pulling with an standard over an AT. Please no flaming here... will it work or no?) More or less, will the computer need reflashed or not? I saw a dyno sheet put up by the owner of the turbo'd AWD Explorer that said the 5.0 on the wheel dyno (not the AWD Explorer, but something similar?) was an Explorer block, turbocharged, but running stock tune without a chip.... at 636hp. Will the stock tune with this computer work with a forced induction app? Will anything we had to bypass go haywire because of the boost? I've kicked it around a while now and have loosely decided on the stock tune being ok as long as I have the right air/fuel mods to keep it happy. Correct or not?
From what I've found the heads will flow enough; the valvetrain and bottom end should be sufficient for ~6psi, correct? Again, its my daily driver and I don't want to have to worry of splitting a block, busting a crank, bending a rod, etc. I'm not shooting for any more than like 450hp ABSOLUTELY MAX. 350 would be great.
Also, (I know this is a total "newbie" question, but nonetheless..) redline on a 'splorer 5.0 is ? I'm hesitant to run above about 4500 because it sounds 'tight', yet dyno sheets are showing 5500+.
I'm sure I've left things out but I don't have time to reread it right now... be back later.
Forced Induction definitely seemed like a good step, but after hunting down multiple superchargers, I don't want to spend that much. Running a remote turbo appears far more feasible, as I have more than enough access to build a large part of it (tubing bends and whatnot); what I can't build I can get at dealer cost/super-cheap-nonetheless.
First and foremost: what turbo? The most popular response seems to be the HX or HY35 from the mid/late 90's Cummins; here lately I've seen complaints that this ISN'T the most effective option. I've also toyed with the idea of running twin turbo's, like a pair from a 1.8T Jetta or similar. However, I know certain turbo's have pieces of manifold molded in, and therefore won't work. The way my exhaust is done I have lots of room and the piping would be easy to work in for a twin turbo setup. But, in the interest of efficiency and reliability, the best option is _______?
Most superchargers for the Explorers are pushing about 6-7psi boost; 6.5psi wastegate ok? 6psi max boost seems decent for the crank and bottom end in a 'xplorer 5.0. Also, does the HX/Y35 run an internal wastegate like Jetta's and whatnot, or do I need a seperate wastegate? From the sounds of it I need to run a seperate wastegate to keep from overboosting. At this point I'm leaning towards a seperate wastegate as a reassurance.
Injectors or no injectors? I've read that the 19# stock injectors will work. "Will work" doesn't satisfy me though... am I going to be lean at full throttle or will it be ok? We have some good hills in Idaho and I don't need to be going lean partway up. Will the MAF be ok or does it need changed out as well? The Lightning/Mustang MAF seems a popular option; if I'm changing injectors then this might as well go too. Being my daily driver, I don't want to worry about having a lean meltdown.
Now... the computer: my Ranger is pre-OBD2, where the Explorer is OBD2. As such, we had to bypass things like the Evap test for the gas tank and whatnot; the computer also still thinks the truck is an automatic with an automatic transfer case. (We live in the mud and snow; I prefer manual hubs and a manual t-case. I also prefer pulling with an standard over an AT. Please no flaming here... will it work or no?) More or less, will the computer need reflashed or not? I saw a dyno sheet put up by the owner of the turbo'd AWD Explorer that said the 5.0 on the wheel dyno (not the AWD Explorer, but something similar?) was an Explorer block, turbocharged, but running stock tune without a chip.... at 636hp. Will the stock tune with this computer work with a forced induction app? Will anything we had to bypass go haywire because of the boost? I've kicked it around a while now and have loosely decided on the stock tune being ok as long as I have the right air/fuel mods to keep it happy. Correct or not?
From what I've found the heads will flow enough; the valvetrain and bottom end should be sufficient for ~6psi, correct? Again, its my daily driver and I don't want to have to worry of splitting a block, busting a crank, bending a rod, etc. I'm not shooting for any more than like 450hp ABSOLUTELY MAX. 350 would be great.
Also, (I know this is a total "newbie" question, but nonetheless..) redline on a 'splorer 5.0 is ? I'm hesitant to run above about 4500 because it sounds 'tight', yet dyno sheets are showing 5500+.
I'm sure I've left things out but I don't have time to reread it right now... be back later.