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M5od-r1hd?

The only reason I asked about the OSS is because I have the 97 explorer EVTM, and it clearly shows an output sensor, labeled as "Vehicle Speed Sensor", so I thought it odd that you wouldn't hook it up. :rolleyes:

I'm still deciding what to do with the PRND21 spot, I'm half tempted to make a driver info screen that will fit the hole and hook up to the 4wd controller I want to build.
 



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i have a 94 explorer with an auto trans and a push button trans case. i was wondering you thought a manual trans and trans case would cost if i found it at a salvage yard without shipping
 






i have a 94 explorer with an auto trans and a push button trans case. i was wondering you thought a manual trans and trans case would cost if i found it at a salvage yard without shipping
 






Bones the speed sensor is in the transfer case I believe.

Tennis it depends on what salvage yards charge in your area for that stuff, your better off trying to buy a donor vehicle of the sameish year. Then you have pedals, trans, comp...everything needed to do the swap.

I wanna do this swap so bad but also don't have a spare vehicle to drive while I'm doing it.
 






The only reason I asked about the OSS is because I have the 97 explorer EVTM, and it clearly shows an output sensor, labeled as "Vehicle Speed Sensor", so I thought it odd that you wouldn't hook it up.

Where does it show the VSS? On the transmission?

If you have a 4x4, it would be impossible for the VSS to be on the transmission because it wouldn't know if the t-case was in low or high. So it would either have to be in the t-case or the diffs or the wheels.

I thought it was odd that my M5OD-R1HD (orig designed for the 2000+ SportTrac w/ 4.0 SOHC) had an OSS port, especially considering the transmission was rigged with an 4x4 extension housing for a t-case. Now that Nocturnall says the VSS is in the t-case for 4x4s, this would mean a 2wd would use a VSS in the transmission. So maybe all R1HD's were fitted with the hole, 2wds using a real VSS sensor, and 4wds using some dummy plug, maybe. Whatever.
 






It's on the transmission. I would assume it's for 2wd vehicles, since they don't have the transfer case to tell em the speed. :D I didn't think of that at first. But yes, in the manual it shows the Output Speed Sensor on the transmission and labels it as VSS. They probably all have the sensor hole, but there might be a plug or something in the 4wd ones. I was just laughing because my first reaction to hearing you didn't plug in the sensor was :eek: :cool:
 






Bones,

Does your cruise control work with the swap...? I'm hoping that the cruise is completely independent of the transmission, that it just operates along with the speed sensor applying the gas when it needs too and all...

Anyone know if I get the stock computer out of a 4.0 SOHC Ranger 4x4 (Would also hopefully be the donor truck) would it simply plug in behind the dash?

Also, does anyone have a pic of the park/neutral wires that have to be jumped?

Is there a write-up of this type of swap anywhere.. other than the report from andy or arnie?
 






My cruise control works. The cc is completely independent of the transmission swap, except for the clutch pedal position switch, which if you want to wire it up properly, will cancel your cc when the clutch is pushed, just like the brake pedal does.

The engine computer does not plug in behind the dash, it is in the engine bay. The computer behind the dash controls the trivial stuff like your power windows and windshield wiper delay.
 






Is there some sort of a break between 88/89 and 91/92 on these transmissions? If so, would the difference prevent the older generation m5 from bolting up to a SOHC?

Oh and I guess somewhat related is: does the transmission have to be from a 4.0L? Can't be from the smaller blocks like the 3.0 or the 2.3?
 






So this isn't what I need from a donor truck:
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Yea, what you have pictured is the engine comp.

Whether you need it or not, I'm not sure. A Ford parts dept guy scared me and said if you don't get an exact comp for your VIN #, then you run the risk of pins being different, which would fry the comp.

My truck is running A+, if not better, with the stock comp and no chip. I jumped the auto trans gear selector switch so it reads "Neutral" and I ripped out all the auto's solinoids and what not and left them connected to the wiring harness and zip-ties them to the outside of the trans. Ghetto, but def worked.

I would be wary about swapping in a computer that is anything other than a donor from an exact year Explorer, or a brand new comp from the dealership with some tech support help from your parts guy.

My recommendation would be to keep your engine comp you have now, then get a Bama chip customized to disable the auto trans junk. Then all you have to do is jump the single wire on the trans harness that allows you to start your engine. This will save you money, risk, and you will get the performance of the chip too!
 






I've been told by a chip tuner guy that the 96 and 97 model year computers are identical, so that can ease a few folk's search for an exact compy. As curiousity, what is the limiter set at in neutral in relation to let's say 1:1 on the auto?
 






Alright, so judgement day has come and I think I'm going to have a donor tomorrow, depending on whether or not I can have someone definitively tell me that a 2wd M5OD + an extension housing for a 4wd will work for my 4wd AUTO explorer. I have the blinking light of doom.
 






Alright, so judgement day has come and I think I'm going to have a donor tomorrow, depending on whether or not I can have someone definitively tell me that a 2wd M5OD + an extension housing for a 4wd will work for my 4wd AUTO explorer. I have the blinking light of doom.
You will need the output shaft as well as the extension housing, just find a 4x4 M5OD.
 






Okay, I think Bones convinced me to do this.

I'm going to drive about 300 miles (round trip) tomorrow to pick up my M5OD from a '92 4x4. (plus clutch, flywheel, starter, pedal cluster, shift linkage, clutch hydraulics).

I'm putting it in my 4r55e Explorer (1996, OHV 4.0, 4x4, 183k on the 4r55e {I remember first and second, they were nice}).

Any huge problems forseen? I've read this thread, and I think I can outsmart my computer. I'm not sure I've seen the question answered directly:

Will my stock transfer-case and driveaxles all match up with the 4x4 M5OD that I'm getting?

I don't mind if they don't, but I'd like to know now, before I'm trying to bolt it all together :)

I'll take photos, and post up results as I go, I'm rather looking forwards to not having a $2600 transmission replacement (plus labor). Wish me luck!

//Bones, I hope you're still reading this thread!
 






Your front and rear driveshafts connect to your transfer case, so the transmission makes no difference there.

The M5OD will bolt right up to your 4.0 OHV engine (albeight will need different lengthed bolts, grab those too). The 4x4 M5OD will also bolt right up to your transfer case.

Of course there's Murphy's Law, so I would just do some measurements before you start wrenching. Crawl under your Ex, confirm the length of your 4r55e is the same length as the M5OD (bring the measurements when you go pick it up). Take a good look at the trans-to-t-case mount, make sure it looks the same as the M5OD (i.e. same number of bolt holes). Take pictures and bring them with you.

Don't forget to grap the steering column cowl (w/o the hole for the auto shifter). If you want to get **** like me, there is a black block in the instrument panel that replaces the "P N D ..." crap. Get all the boots and plates around the shifter. There is a plate (think of it as a sheet metal gasket) that's between the trans and the engine. Take this, it's different. Grap as much of the wiring harness that connects to the crap on the M5OD (there is at least the back-up light switch, maybe a speed sensor). Grab the wiring harness for the clutch pedal position switch (your auto should have a jumper wire in it's place).
 






Durr... right, I was thinking more the spacing between transmission output and input to the t-case. I'm englishing bad today :)

They call the bit of sheet metal the "dust shield" on my Mustang... I don't know if the guy I'm buying all of this off of will bring it, hopefully, but I can fabricate one up easily enough. Sheet metal with holes is easy, it's the three-dimensional stuff I don't attempt much yet. Good call though, I'll ask and try to get him to toss it in with the rest.

Downside, I won't have time to drop my Auto before I've got the Manual. So, worst case, I'll just need a new t-case... and a trip to the axle shop, and if it takes that long, I'll probably go ahead and lift my Ex while I'm at it... and this'll snow-ball nicely :p

I think, since I'm having him pull the parts, I'll probably be without the wiring. I'm also not planning on replacing my 96's computer. I can live with constant OBD-II errors if I can get her driving again.

Awesome advice though, good number of things I hadn't thought of!

I hope this works out close to a bolt-on.

Did you have to cut a larger hole in the floor for the shifter linkage to pass through? I know I'll be ripping out part of my interior to fit the shifter.
 






Did you have to cut a larger hole in the floor for the shifter linkage to pass through? I know I'll be ripping out part of my interior to fit the shifter.

The hole should already be there.
 






How can you identify the HD version? Is the model number stamped on the housing? :dunno:
 



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So, just to be clear, the M5OD-R1HD from a 2002 Ranger shoud bolt up to my 1994 OHV Explorer? I just have to finagle the wiring to trick the computer in some spots?
Also, does anyone know where I can find a rebuild kit for this transmission?
 






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