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97 Ranger complete A/C system replacement, how much oil?

Dylwad

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Hey guys,

Had the infamous "black death" compressor failure, decided to replace the entire system, all motocraft except for the evap and condenser, being delco and TYC repectively. Cost of an entire system was in-line with buying aftermarket parts and flushing the evap and 1 hose, $630 shipped to my door.

Question is, how much oil to add before I go have it evacuated and charged?

ACkits (who's doing the charge) says 7 oz, 5 oz in the compressor (fs10) and 2oz in the drier,

Ive seen other references on this board that confirm the 7 oz, but...

The red "MUST ADD OIL" tag on the compressor states to put 5-6 oz in the compressor, 3 oz in the evap 1 oz in the condenser and whatever came out of the drier +1 oz, so 12 oz give or take.

Napa says 7oz http://www.napabeltshose.com/downlo...acityGuide2-8-05.pdf&folder=news&view=napa_hc pg 17

to top it off, heres a TSB saying to add 2 oz http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showpost.php?p=1983179&postcount=10

So, how much oil do I add? 9 oz? or just buy an 8 oz bottle of dec pag46 https://www.ackits.com/pc/OB-6046C/Compressoroils/DEC+PAG+46+(8+ounces)+DYE and call it done?

Or should I use the Motocraft pag oil? From what Ive read the DEC stuff is far superior, any thoughts?

Anyone care to help?

Thanks!

Dylan
 



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Also, for those who might know, is the big threaded connector on the top of the evap-accumulator a true compression fitting or should it have an O-ring? It didnt have one when I took it apart, but I had the Accumulator replaced a few summers ago and had it re-charged, so I have no idea if the joint had an O-ring from the factory or not.

Thanks,

Dylan
 






Also, for those who might know, is the big threaded connector on the top of the evap-accumulator a true compression fitting or should it have an O-ring? It didnt have one when I took it apart, but I had the Accumulator replaced a few summers ago and had it re-charged, so I have no idea if the joint had an O-ring from the factory or not.

Thanks,

Dylan

I believe that fitting has an o-ring...maybe that is why your system failed? Loss of refrigerant and oil is a good way to kill a system. If you want to be 100% sure ask your dealer for an exploded diagram, they can print it out.

Use nylog on fittings.

I used the PAG 46 DEC oil, I saw it in NAPA too and probably most shops use it. It also had leak detector. The 8oz bottle is perfect, you are between the TSB amount and the factory amount. You could add one more Oz. I think the 8oz is fine though. The tsb is there to assure there is sufficient oil for the compressor in the event of small leaks.

Tip:
Make sure your compressor is FULLY oiled before it goes in. Put 3oz in the intake. Spin it a few times till you see oil at the output. Let it sit on the pulley for an hour while you work, this will lubricate the front seal.

When the compressor is installed, spin it by hand a bunch to move the excess oil into the lines.
 






Tip:
Make sure your compressor is FULLY oiled before it goes in. Put 3oz in the intake. Spin it a few times till you see oil at the output. Let it sit on the pulley for an hour while you work, this will lubricate the front seal.

When the compressor is installed, spin it by hand a bunch to move the excess oil into the lines.

Some of the best advice I've seen.

By the way, 8 oz should be fine.
 






Alright!

Thanks guys, exactly the kind of info I needed!

I was planning on using nylog, and ill pick up an O-ring for it when I go pick up the oil and nylog, it really looks to me like it has a space for one.

The system sprung a small leak at the accumulator a few summers ago, $120 for the acc. and recharge, when it failed this summer there was no sign of leaks, and there was plenty of oil/ref. in the system. I think 11 phoenix summers on the stock compressor isnt too bad, considering we blast our A/C here for at least 6 months of the year. The system had never ran without some sort of a charge in it.

I'm getting excited, so glad I decided to replace the evaporator, probably 30% of the fins blocked by crud, and having it professionly flushed wouldnt have cleaned the coils, and would have only saved me $20, Priceless to my lungs.

My orifice tube looked like the ones they show on ackits website under "black death"

Thanks again,

Dylan
 






Alright!

Thanks guys, exactly the kind of info I needed!

I was planning on using nylog, and ill pick up an O-ring for it when I go pick up the oil and nylog, it really looks to me like it has a space for one.

The system sprung a small leak at the accumulator a few summers ago, $120 for the acc. and recharge, when it failed this summer there was no sign of leaks, and there was plenty of oil/ref. in the system. I think 11 phoenix summers on the stock compressor isnt too bad, considering we blast our A/C here for at least 6 months of the year. The system had never ran without some sort of a charge in it.

I'm getting excited, so glad I decided to replace the evaporator, probably 30% of the fins blocked by crud, and having it professionly flushed wouldnt have cleaned the coils, and would have only saved me $20, Priceless to my lungs.

My orifice tube looked like the ones they show on ackits website under "black death"

Thanks again,

Dylan

Do you have any noise or clicking when you adjust temperature?

If you are replacing the evaporator it may be prudent to install a blend door thru the plenum opening as well. I believe the ranger is identical to the ex.

Napa has it for $12 bucks.

You have to pop the control motor off the plenum, drop the glove compartment and slip a screwdriver under the motor. There are posts that release when you pry. To put it back play with the temperature control to get it in the right position after you install the new door.

To get the door out you wedge a screwdriver or prybar under or above the old one and pop it out. Then at the bottom corner close to the firewall you remove about a 1/4" diagnoal off the door. Then try to weasel it it in, you may have to swear a bit.


This is optional but worth considering, search for the blend door issue.
 






Thanks for the tip, Ive never heard any noises or had any problems with it, the temp rarely gets adjusted. Ill definately check it out before I put the Plenum back in.

Went to the Ford dealership today to get the o-rings, the parts diagram didnt list the o-ring part numbers, nor did it show the connection between the top of the evap and the accumulator, pretty useless, He said they can match a new O-ring to the old one, that I didnt have. I needed an O-ring for the pressure switch on the accumulator as well, and he couldnt even figure a part number for that one either; his words were "the old part number is discontinued and replaced by a new part number that doesnt exsist in our system" So much for Bell Ford's parts department.


So I brought the accumulator and Evap. to Arizona Mobile Air (ACkits.com), the salesman there was very friendly and helpful, I bought the DEC PAG46 oil and nylog and he threw in the 2 o-rings for free. Ill be taking the truck there to get it evap'd and charged, even though its across town.

Ive also decided that the 1/16 inch thick plastic plenum 3 inches from the exhaust manifold needs more insulation than ford thought at the time, so the whole box is getting wrapped in aluminum backed 1/8 foam insulation, as well as fords "blanket" Should quiet the whole system a bit as well.

About 7.75 ounces of oil in the system, and the compressor spent some time clutch down with oil in it today, Thanks for the tip!

That Nylog is cool stuff, probably would have saved the space shuttle challenger :)

BTW the pressure switch pre-installed on the motocraft "manifold" assembly had a bone-dry O-ring in it.

Dylan
 






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