How I changed my 05's Front Wheel Bearing

[johnreeder]

I'd like to purchase one of those OEM Ford bearing and hub assemblies. Please send me the contact info. johnreeder@jalc.edu

 

[thepotroast]

I'd like to purchase one of those OEM Ford bearing and hub assemblies. Please send me the contact info. johnreeder@jalc.edu

Just sent you an email with his contact info.

 

[jrford]

I had a problem too with those $!%$!#% hub bolts. To preface this i live in a great salt state which doesn't help, i also tried to pull it before a snow storm but had to give up when it started snowing. . . anyways i was able to get two of the bolts out with hand tools, which was a socket to a swivel joint 6" extension and then a 36" wrecker bar. I thought i was home free but then that last bolt came out half way and just froze, bolt wouldn't turn either way and then the snow came. . .i packed it in took to a shop.

In thinking, if i had another hour or two. . . .i would also have tried:
1-A small head impact wrench or right angle one, my normal 1/2" was too big and kept hitting the frame or was angle too much to do anything.
2-Also the impact socket was to thick to really get in there, a silver thin wall might have fit better.
3-That offset wrench someone found might have worked better, with a dead blow hammer.
4-soak it with penetrating oil for a week and wire wheel the tips of the bolts sticking through the hub.
5-Die Grinder was a great idea but i would have to run and buy one, i might have one ready next time.
6-Worst case take the knuckle off. . . why not it seem that those ball joints come apart fairly easy, separate it from the drive shaft and put it on a bench. . .

For the record i bought the cheap Chinese ones for $100 but it came with new bolts, no problems yet in 8 months, but I'm lining up my tools. . .

 

[bax4bux]

I'd like to purchase one of those OEM Ford bearing and hub assemblies. Please send me the contact info. johnreeder@jalc.edu

Dido to bax4bux@yahoo.com
Thanks

 

[thepotroast]

Dido to bax4bux@yahoo.com
Thanks

Sent you a PM

 

[High_Order1]

Wow

Well,

I'm honored that something I wrote on here helps others.

I did break down and buy a hefty three jaw puller. That's EXACTLY what the Doctor ordered.

far as the bolts, seems like the last hub, we used something like a long extension, snaked the socket onto the head, then pressed the extension on. I shoulda wrote it down. Sorry!

I never was able to figure out any further on whether or not you could replace those bearings.... well, ok. Sure, you can replace them. But with what, and how hard is it, and how long do they last - that's what I didn't figure out... lol

The last hub we did in under 45 minutes hubcap to hubcap. Rereading this before we did it simplified life.

Thanks again,

-Shawn

 

[thepotroast]

Well,

I'm honored that something I wrote on here helps others.

I did break down and buy a hefty three jaw puller. That's EXACTLY what the Doctor ordered.

far as the bolts, seems like the last hub, we used something like a long extension, snaked the socket onto the head, then pressed the extension on. I shoulda wrote it down. Sorry!

I never was able to figure out any further on whether or not you could replace those bearings.... well, ok. Sure, you can replace them. But with what, and how hard is it, and how long do they last - that's what I didn't figure out... lol

The last hub we did in under 45 minutes hubcap to hubcap. Rereading this before we did it simplified life.

Thanks again,

-Shawn

Your writeup definitely helped me along with this....thank you! Man I don't know how you got anything other than a deep offset wrench in there! When I did the other side after I made that post with my own pics, I again tried a socket set, thin sidewall sockets, all different adapters, still could not get a solid grip on the head! I think the worst part is that there is just no give on those bolts, until the last millimeter of thread....most bolts you know you're getting near the end, as they ease their way out....not those man, I was pounding the mini sledge to the wrench all the way out! The new bolts that came with that Ford kit went in so smoothly.....that yellow thread locker they use on there must be some industrial strength stuff!

I just hope to not have to do those again for some time! My other side really did not need to be done yet, wasn't showing wear or making noise, but I figured if one side goes bad, the other isn't too far behind, and I was still in the "mode" to do it!

Thanks again for the write up

 

[johnreeder]

Replacing the front wheel bearing and hub assembly

I got the OEM bearing and hub assembly. What a nightmare; those 3 bolts were close to being impossible to remove. The top one was the hardest. It came very close to rounding off. I had to use a cheater bar (a 1"X18" black pipe) on my brand new Craftsman off-set boxed end wrench on each and every turn. Of course there was only room to turn it approximately 1/10 of a turn each time. If it hadn't been a hardened bolt it would have broken off. When I got close to the end there wasn't enough room for the wrench. I called a buddy of mine who operates a small repair shop and he suggested I try pushing the axle in a little since it is splined on a slip joint. Sure enough, I was able to push the axle in enough to continue with my off-set wrench. Of course the axle didn't push in easily, I had to use a short stubby sledge to get it to move. More than once I thought I was going to have to use the grinder method or borrow a cutting torch. Once I got the 3 bolts out (approximately 4 hours later) and the bearing loose from the housing and the spines separated it went back together in about 15 minutes. I couldn't believe how easy it was to reassemble. Just another situation where I'd love to get ahold of the engineer who designed the axle that was just slightly large enough to block any type of socket from fitting. I swear they must sometimes try their hardest to create such a mess. But she sure drives nice and smooth now; quiet as a mouse. I also discovered from Michael that the bearing and hub assembly for my Lincoln Aviator was different from the Ford Explorer. I still can't figure that one out. From what I've seen from aftermarket kits they're the same. Anyway, she's done and I hope or should I say pray to heaven I don't have to do the other side. By the way, my Aviator only has 48,000 miles on it. I'm a big Ford fan but, I have to admitt I'm not proud of having to change this wheel bearing out at such low mileage. Thanks for everyone's assistance. These internet forums are great for do it yourselfers. I did cover all mating parts with anti seizing grease.

JR

 

[johnreeder]

The torque spec on the axle nut at 184 foot pounds (ft lbs) from one of the other post seems rather high, can anyone confirm that number?

JR

 

[thepotroast]

The torque spec on the axle nut at 184 foot pounds (ft lbs) from one of the other post seems rather high, can anyone confirm that number?

JR

It's 184ft lbs Here's a breakdown of torque specs on the front. See #1 on the diagram:

 

[jrford]

dude, #7 are the Bearing Bolts 83 ft lbs, #1 is the Axle Nut - 184 ft lbs.

 

[thepotroast]

dude, #7 are the Bearing Bolts 83 ft lbs, #1 is the Axle Nut - 184 ft lbs.

You are correct

 

[rodster]

Thanks to everyone....

for all of the posts. It seems that every vehicle is different. The hub puller (from advanced auto) definitely helped. Was able to get a 15 mm 3/8 socket on the bolts connected to a 1/2 in ratchet with the converter.. Did the trick on 2 of 3. The third on took all I could do to get it out using a breaker bar and 'extended bar'. Broke a craftsman socket in the process. Turning the steering wheel toward the bad hub was also helpful. 3 hours off, 15 min back on.

 

[alexmckinney]

Another recommendation

Prior to removing the three hub bolts I dosed them heavily with WD-40. While that was penetrating, I used my hub puller to push the CV joint out of the bearing. Because the vehicle is lifted and the suspension is dangling, there is plenty of play in the CV joint to be pushed in. This freed up quite a bit of space behind the knuckle to get my socket and rachet in place to remove the hub bolts. The bolts extended through the knuckle were very rusty and they have locktite on the threads from the factory.

My replacement hub/bearing assembly are aftermarkets from WJB. I paid $75 for mine with speed sensor at a local distributor near Cincinnati. Also comes with new mounting bolts already coated with locktite. I am very pleased with them.

Overall time for one wheel was 1.5 hours. 1 hour to disassemble and 30 minutes to clean up the knuckle and reassemble. That included lifting the vehicle and putting my tools away.

 

[MTLotts]

Fixing to do mine.

I'm fixing to do mine.
I'd like to purchase the OEM Ford bearing and hub assemblies PotRoast mentioned.

Would you please PM me the info of the seller. Thanks.

------------
2003 XLS Sport
- Back panel "Butt Crack"
- Transmission Rebuild
- A/C Leak Repair

 

[thepotroast]

I'm fixing to do mine.
I'd like to purchase the OEM Ford bearing and hub assemblies PotRoast mentioned.

Would you please PM me the info of the seller. Thanks.

PM sent

 

[Boxwrench]

Btdt

Sittin here laughing[kinda] about removing the three bolts from haties,because I just did both sides too.. I have a heavy 3/8x15mm socket that I put on a short extention,which went into a drill.I then used a 4-1/2" grinder and the drill to taper the socket to a usable size that took all the bolts out.Two of them about half way out two locked and would not move.I walked away for a few beers and when I got back,they still would not move.I put the floor jack against the end of a 16" rachet to twist a 3/8 extention into two parts. GGrr. With a l-o-n-g breaker bar they finally came out.. Fun,fun.Thanks for the tips

Boxwrench

 

[SHUTUPNDRIVE]

Hey.. PotRoast.. Thanks for the great informative post. I just had one of my rears done for $250 .. a bargain indeed.(I listened to the mechanic curse under his breathe for 5 hours.) While doing my research I found this thread. I was looking at your pics and couldn't help but notice your upper ball joint. Is it me or is there way too much play up there? Boot missing? Maybe just a bad camera angle. Anyway This is a great thread ! I hope my fronts hold out till I get a garage again. The tip about wirewheeling and liquid wrenching the exposed threads of the bearing bolts sounds like a good idea. Can't wait !

 

[thepotroast]

Hey.. PotRoast.. Thanks for the great informative post. I just had one of my rears done for $250 .. a bargain indeed.(I listened to the mechanic curse under his breathe for 5 hours.) While doing my research I found this thread. I was looking at your pics and couldn't help but notice your upper ball joint. Is it me or is there way too much play up there? Boot missing? Maybe just a bad camera angle. Anyway This is a great thread ! I hope my fronts hold out till I get a garage again. The tip about wirewheeling and liquid wrenching the exposed threads of the bearing bolts sounds like a good idea. Can't wait !

Thanks

There was no play, just a completely deteriorated boot (on both sides). That happens at 126k miles

See my post located in my signature, for my complete "How To" on changing upper ball joints....WITHOUT replacing the entire control arm assembly as the Haynes manual, repair shops and even members on uninformed forums may lead you to believe

 

[liltommy]

Bringing this back up.

I replaced one side last year but bought the OE from Ford which came with the sensor attached. Well Ford now wants $50 more than I can get one from an auto parts store but it doesn't come with the sensor attached.
I seemed to re-call last year that the sensor didn't look that bad to switch over.
Can someone confirm or deny this. It looks like everybody's been buying the OE from Ford.

Thanks