Rust welded, rounded, bleeder valve issue... | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Rust welded, rounded, bleeder valve issue...

doonze

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
506
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3
City, State
Fayetteville, Ar
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 X Sport
So, when I replaced my 2 rear brake lines I was of course bleeding the system and when I got to the driver rear I discovered not only is it rust welded, it's also been completely rounded by someone I guess who owned it before me. And I mean COMPLETELY, doesn't look like a nut at all anymore. I attempted to get it loose with a pair of vice grips. No good, too rusted.

Any ideas?
 



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'93 Discs or Drums? Either way, you can try to heat it up and use the vise grips to get it out, then replace with new bleeder. I would recommend taking the Wheel cylinder/Caliper off the car for this. If nothing else, take the new hose off it so the heat doesn't build up pressure. You may end up buying a new Wheel Cylinder/ caliper for that side.
 






The only thing I could suggest is to put new cylinders on the back. Because if you go to all the trouble of taking the cylinders off, putting them in a vise and heating up the zerk fitting and manage to get it out to replace it, without damaging the cylinder, the time to just put new cylinders on would have been less. Or you could go old school an rebuild the cylinders you have. Just my two cents.

Matt
 






X2 - just replace the cylinders
Posted via Mobile Device
 






I hate messing with drum brakes. I'm thinking of dropping by a shop and seeing if they have any tool/ideas that might work. The break itself is fine so I would hate to replace things just becuase of the bleeder valve.
 






Second thought

'93 Discs or Drums? Either way, you can try to heat it up and use the vise grips to get it out, then replace with new bleeder. I would recommend taking the Wheel cylinder/Caliper off the car for this. If nothing else, take the new hose off it so the heat doesn't build up pressure. You may end up buying a new Wheel Cylinder/ caliper for that side.

If it wer a caliper, I would try and save it but, as the others said. Wheel cylinders are cheap enough and heating them is likely to hurt the seals
 






I hate messing with drum brakes. I'm thinking of dropping by a shop and seeing if they have any tool/ideas that might work. The break itself is fine so I would hate to replace things just becuase of the bleeder valve.

Honestly it is a $15 part. You already did the hard work in getting the Brake line loose.

Another two bolts and the Cylinder is out.
 






Honestly it is a $15 part. You already did the hard work in getting the Brake line loose.

Another two bolts and the Cylinder is out.

I've haven't messed with drum breaks since my 68 Mustang (that would have been like 20 years ago), hmmm... I was seeing a all day break job in my head for this issue, I'll have to take a look at it this weekend and see what I think then. I like to do things the cheap way verses the easy way, but I'm sure a shop would charge me at least $15 bucks to get it out so it would be a wash.
 






I've haven't messed with drum breaks since my 68 Mustang (that would have been like 20 years ago), hmmm... I was seeing a all day break job in my head for this issue, I'll have to take a look at it this weekend and see what I think then. I like to do things the cheap way verses the easy way, but I'm sure a shop would charge me at least $15 bucks to get it out so it would be a wash.

You might get lucky and just have to take the two springs off the Top, pull out that Horizontal Arm that is used for the Emergeny brake and leave everything else in place to slide the Cylinder out.
We all have gotten spoiled with the ease of Discs. Well, not totally, I have my share of four wheel or rear wheel Drum cars.
 






Well, 2 of the 3 cars I currently own are rear drum (my X and my 82 Trans Am) however I've NEVER had a problem with them at all. In fact I've never had trouble with any drum brakes I've every owned, just with disk breaks. So it's more a fact I've never had to mess with em then anything else. I need to break down and get a service manual. I don't like messing with brakes, anything else I mess with will cause the Truck not to go. Annoying but not dangerous. Messing up brakes makes the truck not STOP, very dangerous.

Same reason I don't like messing with the steering, wheel bearings, and suspension. I'll do it, in fact every piece of my Trans Am has new parts and bushings, including a new short throw steering gearbox, but then I took it to a shop and had them look it over. I had visions of A-arms coming loose, and wheels falling off and pitman arms letting loose, ball joints failing, guess I dont' trust myself! LOL I once had a drive shaft I had just installed come loose and almost pole vaulted my Mustang... Since then makes me nervious.... ;)

Anyway, I'll dig into the breaks here soon and see what's what. Thanks for all the advice and tips!
 






Your too far away ( I'm in NY) for me to shoot over and swap out the cylinder.
Funny you mention Wheel Bearings. I just got a call yesterday from my wife. "I just got home from work and about a mile from home the Brakes are scratching." I just did te brakes two months ago. I get home and the 'NEW' pad on the one side totally broke off and scored the heck out of my Rotor.
So I had to do some calling around Two new Rotors and Pads.
So as you know, The frontRotors have the Hub included. So I had to swap over teh wheel bearings and luckily got teh rear seal off no sweat. Those rotors were not that old either. ticks me off ( i will be arguing with NAPA of this) BUT it gave me an excuse to repack the bearings.

Good luck
 






I hate messing with drum brakes. I'm thinking of dropping by a shop and seeing if they have any tool/ideas that might work. The break itself is fine so I would hate to replace things just becuase of the bleeder valve.

Doonze,

Your Ex Drums are exactly as easy as your Mustangs. You need the spring tools and I highly recommend a brake calipers (measuring tool). It cuts down the time of adjusting the drums, by a lot. I think you can get them at Harbor Freight. Just do one side at a time so you can see how they go on. You don't need to buy a manual for that. Just remember they are opposite. You only need to change the cylinders, wipe the shoes down with Brake parts cleaner.

Matt
 






brake calipers (measuring tool) ???

What is this Measuring tool? Brake Spoons?
 






brake calipers (measuring tool) ???

What is this Measuring tool? Brake Spoons?

Tony,

Couldn't find it at Harbor Freight, I could have swore that's where I bought it. Anyways it looks like:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KD-3...Z110375306768QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

You don't need them, but they do cut down the time. You can set your shoes exactly the same after you turn your drums. Just a time saver, but I didn't pay what these guys at Ebay want.

Later, Matt
 






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