CV Axle Replacement How To (Pictures)

[RccMountaineer97]

Thanks so much I learned allot from this. Double thanks for "pointing" to exactly what you were talking about. It makes it much easier for those of us who are new to the DIY scene!

 

[walekhale]

Nice write-up! got to do that same project too when i get the GSP North America axle assembly which was ordered by my bro.

 

[omar2001]

great jod here! awesome write-up! thanks for sharing man

 

[cbrock]

Excellent write-up MountaineerGreen!

I'm about to undertake this project on my '02 AWD Mountaineer next weekend and I've never done anything this intricate so your steps/tips will definitely put me on the right track.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

cbrock- This write up may help with the general idea, but your 2002 will be different than the pictures and instructions I posted. This applies to 1995-2001 Explorers and Mountaineers

 

[C420sailor]

Does anyone know the part number or proper name for the seals that press into the steering knuckle and seem to seal the CV to the knuckle? (Kinda behind the hub assembly)

I went to change out my hubs tonight and saw that the original oil seal was mangled. I'd like to replace it but no one seems to stock it (or even know what it's called). Thanks!

 

[CDW6212R]

It sounds like you mean the dust seals, which go onto the CV axles. The spindles have a metal pocket/race in them where those dust seals ride inside of. The aftermarket CV axles should come with those dust seals, they press on them very easily. The rubber lips of the dust seals must not ride against the spindle back side, or the friction will melt them. They just need to be close with a minimal gap. You could do without them, but the spindle bearings will not last as long.

From Ford those are not cheap and have to be ordered, about $15 each IIRC.

 

[pdx]

Need some help, I can't get the driver side cv shaft into the diff. Its a new shaft, but the snap ring will not seem to seat, the shaft itself fits fine but I can't get enough force on the shaft to seat it with the darn ring. I have the whole side torn down for rebuild so access isn't a problem but I am at a loss as to why this one is so difficult to get in. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!:frustrate

 

[corkey]

I just got a CV from Carquest, and had the following problem with it:

It refused to go into the Differential.

So, after getting extremely angry and demonsstrating my extensive 4-letter vocabulary, I pulled it out and compared it to the other. (I replaced this one about a month ago, but managed to tear the boot while doing some other repairs (Ball Joint).) it went in painlessly before. Well, turns out the little C-clip thingy on there was a different size, just big enough to keep it from going in. I swapped it with the one from the other axle, and the thing popped in like it's supposed to.

Just thought I'd mention that in case anyone was having that same problem, and so you know to look out for it.

this came from a post on this thread, maybe look at the ring see if it different, ,

 

[pdx]

Good call on that, the other side went in fine no prob, this one was ridiculous. I finally (after reshaping the snap ring to fit better) was able to line up the CV shaft, hold it level and take a dead blow hammer to the free end. This was exactly what was needed, took all of about 10 sec worth of time after literally days and thousands of those 4 letter words later.

 

[stiffy44]

how to change rear bearing 02 Explorer

can you guy tell me how to change rear bearing it has coil springs on the rear

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Be very gentle with those seals. There is a spring in it to apply some pressure on the seal to the axle. That spring will come out if the seal is pinched or pried on much. Install the seal without touching the rubber portion where the spring is.

When installing a new outer oil seal in the diff casing, why not take the new seal and apply a bead of RTV over the inner spring, making sure to cover the spring to join it to the rubber of the seal, and let it dry overnight. That'd keep the inner spring from popping of into the diff case upon installing your CV's. Seems to me it'd work.

Just a thought...


GB

 

[my pos mounty]

Why not use the vaseline in the medicine cabinet to fill that void, or good old grease like Don (CDW6212R) said earlier in the thread??
You wouldn't be re-engineering the seal that way, and it works great.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, that tip came from a wise Ford technician I trust(which is few).

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Honestly, I see either method working. Myself, I'd try the RTV first. Grease or vaseline would just make the seal more slippery, allowing the spring to work itself off during installation even easier. It wouldn't be re-engineering the seal, as it would still be able to do it's job as intended. The spring would still contract as it was designed to do. The RTV wouldn't keep it from contracting onto the axle shaft one bit. I'm not saying anyone should fill the entire backside of the seal full of RTV. Just stick the spring to the seal to keep it from rolling out of its groove.

I've used similar techniques on motorcycles for over 15 years. Especially output shaft and kickstart seals. Never a problem and never a leak.


Just sayin...



GB

 

[Joe Dirt]

Great writeup Evan- This is the second set I've done, and I'm down to about 2 hours for both sides now. Thought I'd toss in a few thoughts/experiences



Dirt tips:

If you find you need to do the same, have a helper hold the brakes.

My 'helper' jammed into the slots of the rotor. Do this before removing the rotor, obviously, or you're screwed.

The last thing holding the knuckle is the tie rod end. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the ball joint. The nut is 21mm, but a crescent wrench or pliers can work. After you remove the nut, a swift whack upwards should break it free. Please ignore the crappy boot on my tie rod end.

EDIT: Do not hit the end of the TRE stud if you intend to re-use the TRE!! Put the castle nut on backwards (so the "castle" part is up on the threads, not at the bottom) or hit the part of the TRE next to the knuckle, not the stud.With the CV in place, put the tie rod back on, tighten it and replace the cotter pin.

It does give you more room, but I only remove the pinch bolt and then the upper control arm and leave the ball joint connected. I'm able to pass both CV's through with that method and saves you from having to remove the ball joint and thus put it back on. I've found that when the wheels are turned 'straight' and the upper control arm popped off, it has enough room when pulled traight down to pass the CV's out of there.

Also- crack the bolts for the hub/bearing loose before removing the upper control arm. If they're original, you'r going to need the upper control arm held as the leverage needed to pop them loose is really too difficult to get with the control arm off as the whole thing moves around too much. Once cracked loose, you can pop the upper control arm off and have more room to get the bolts out.

Some of them, especially the front bolts are a b***h. If you need leverage and your 3/8 breaker bar doesn't give you enough leverage, you've pounded on the 3/8" bar with a sledge and it's gone nowhere either, and you can't fit your big-headed 1/2" breaker bar on there like I couldn't and don't have a piece of pipe laying around... Try the homemade redneck breaker bar, i.e. your jack. I ended up using the breaker bar in place of the wrench for even more leverage before it cracked loose, but only have a pic of the wrench.

Note for above: BE CAREFUL. You're going to be lifting the truck before it cracks loose most likely. But, when it pops loose, it won't drop, it may move the bolt 1/16", so you can lower it back down. Then lower it, and finish loosening. If you don't have a breaker bar that fits and you use the double-wrench, (the box end of another combination wrench hooked to the open-end of the first to double the leverage) BE MORE CAREFUL as if those wrenches spin, they could go anywhere. I would NOT advise using double wrenching with the jack...

Push the knuckle back to the upper ball joint. It may be necessary to jack the lower control arm up to get it back together.

Like this (I've already pounded the upper control arm back on):

Last thing, I know there has been discussion about re-using axle bolts. I've always reused them if I didn't have reason to put on new (replacing just a hub/bearing), but if you're iffy this is why they say not to- the new bolts are "formed" to retain tightness.

Again- awesome write-up. Helped me do my first set, so I figured I'd add some thoughts from my experiences in case they might help someone else.

 

[buddy72]

Thanks for this writeup! It gave me the confidence to do this for the first time. In hindsight, it was almost easy. I didn't have to undo the tie rod end, just the upper pinch bolt and the lower ball joint.

Dirt, I have the exact same jack stands, the AC Delco ones. Very sturdy. I like that the legs have the little plates on the bottom.

 

[mheaster]

THANKS!!!!

I just successfully changed my Driver's Side CV Axle following this guide! Was relatively easy!

My only snag was I only LOOSENED the pinch bolt instead of REMOVING the pinch bolt in upper ball joint! Guess what! It really doesn't matter how much you pound on it! It doesn't separate until you REMOVE the pinch bolt! Glad I figured it out after a short time and resisted the urge to go get the Pickle Fork!

I was successful with ONLY removing the upper ball joint (NOT the Tie Rod End).

 

[Joe Dirt]

Yup- I didn't remove either of my tie rods either... Glad everyone is getting them changed- Mounty did a killer writeup!

 

[domeshot14]

I have a question.. I'm going to be replacing my passenger side cv axle on my 99 XLT very soon (man, those things smell horrible when they go bad!!) and I know the upper pinch bolt is a PITA to remove, especially since I live in NW Ohio and snow/salt season is about 3-4 months long. When I was replacing the lower ball joints I just couldn't get the damn thing to budge even the slightest bit (tried PB blaster, a BFH and a torch....no dice ). Is it possible to remove/replace the cv WITHOUT removing the pinch bolt/UBJ or the TRE? I was thinking about removing the hub assembly, pulling the cv from the differential, then wiggling the outer end inwards thru the knuckle and reassembling in reverse order....would that work?? Only reason I ask is I'm forced to do my repairs outside and the air temp right now is about 15F with a nice cold breeze, not trying to waste too much time out there f-ing around with stuck bolts. Need someone's advice ASAP..trying to get this done over the weekend.