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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
plan on putting new lower ball joints on the X thursday. tmrw im going to get penetrating oil and let everything soak. I already read the writeup on changing them - but other than freezing the balljoints before hand is there any advice you guys could give? such as what caused problems for you guys or what NOT to do? (shes a 2wd if that makes a difference)
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Make sure you have a socket that fits the NEW ball joint castle nut. That cost me a trip to the store today. The Moog ball joint comes with a castle nut that's larger than anything I had. So I took the nut to the store and found a socket (of course I forgot what it was- it just fits).
Also, I didn't freeze the new ball joint (although that's not a horrible idea) and the floor jack trick didn't work. But you can configure the ball joint press to press in the new joint.
Make sure you have a socket that fits the NEW ball joint castle nut. That cost me a trip to the store today. The Moog ball joint comes with a castle nut that's larger than anything I had. So I took the nut to the store and found a socket (of course I forgot what it was- it just fits).
Also, I didn't freeze the new ball joint (although that's not a horrible idea) and the floor jack trick didn't work. But you can configure the ball joint press to press in the new joint.
thanx! im using Moog's too so ill make sure i have the right sockets before i take my truck apart. did you buy your press or rent it from the parts store?
Rented it. $100. I was the first one to rent this one- it was clean and zip-tied shut (and the store just opened). I'll return it tomorrow for my refund. I don't see how it's possible to do it without one with the lower control arm still on the truck.
Is a 95 the same as a 97? I've replace my lower ball joints twice and didn't need to freeze them or use a press. First I went with MOOG and the boots deteriorated in about three years. Then next time I went with NAPA and added aftermarket boots over the originals to protect them. They are still fine afer 70k.
Yeah. I'd give the press a few turns and it would be really difficult to turn anymore and the joint wasn't moving. Then I hit the control arm with my BFH and it made a loud pop sound and then the press was easier to turn. Had to do that a few times on the right side.
Placing a floor jack under the control arm (without obstructing anything), remove the retaining ring, remove the bleeder (if it has one), and smack the ball joint downwards until it comes out. All the ones I've done, have released and were removed with 3-4 good smacks with a 5 lb mini sledge.
The castle nut on the OEM ball joint and the replacement Moog were different- that's all I know. I bought an SAE sized socket for the Moog- 1-1/16" and it fits perfectly. I don't remember what I used on the OEM. I do know it wasn't 28mm.
just PB'd everything to let it sit overnight... hopefully tmrw all goes well and i dont break anything. will let you guys know how all works out - thanks for the info/advice!
So if I'm reading you post right Gman, a little bit of brute force will get the ball joint out? And getting it back in in similar fashion? Looking to replace my ball joints and front wheel hubs in one go.
So if I'm reading you post right Gman, a little bit of brute force will get the ball joint out? And getting it back in in similar fashion? Looking to replace my ball joints and front wheel hubs in one go.
You can use a floor jack and a properly placed deep well socket to put them back in. Jack up the control arm using the socket to press the new one in. Tap the control arm down, and it should pop in place.
You can use a floor jack and a properly placed deep well socket to put them back in. Jack up the control arm using the socket to press the new one in. Tap the control arm down, and it should pop in place.
The floor jack method didn't work for me. I could lift the Explorer off the jack stand with the floor jack, smack the control arm and nothing. Works for some, not for others.
well just did mine this morning and it was a piece of cake! didnt even use a press. BFH to get the old ones out then jack the new one in and BFH the control arm. only problem i had was the knuckle didnt want to come off the old lower BJ. had to hammer out the old one with it still on the knuckle then smack it out once off the truck but other than that went smoothly. thanks to the PB didnt have a single stuck bolt! all in all took maybe 3 hours including a break for food. when i took it for a drive i almost thought something was wrong cuz this truck has never steered this easy! used to have to give the steering wheel a little to turn but now even with 31's she turns effortlessly
I forgot to mention that heating the old ball joint stud with a propane torch for a minute will release the hold on the knuckle. Wish I would have mentioned it, sorry bout that.
Glad you got it repaired yourself, how much $$ do you think you saved doing this on your own?
well i spent 80 on the ball joints and thats all i had to buy. the shop would probly charge maybe 100 in parts. plus labor? low ball estimate would be saved roughly 200. not to mention it took me less time to change them at home than it would have taken me to go to the shop, drop off the truck, go back and pick it up, etc. and time = money.
Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,. Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.
plan on putting new lower ball joints on the X thursday. tmrw im going to get penetrating oil and let everything soak. I already read the writeup on changing them - but other than freezing the balljoints before hand is there any advice you guys could give? such as what caused problems for you guys or what NOT to do? (shes a 2wd if that makes a difference)
