ac not cold enough & compressor clicking noise

[salongaopm]

My 98 explorer ac is not cooling enough. The clicking noise seems to be the noise that it produced whenever the compressor turns on and off. I hooked up a recharge hose with gauge then run the ac and fan to max and noticed that the needle on the gauge goes up to 60 psi whenever the compressor is not running and goes down to zero whenever it turns on. I am just wondering if this is due to low charge? Will charging the ac solve this problem? I am attaching the link to the video I took of the gauge and compressor.

http://www.vimeo.com/25937381

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[firepop5]

You almost definitely need a charge. Compressor turns off when pressure drops below a certain PSI. When pressure comes back up, compressor turns on again. There isn't enough refrigerant in your system to allow compressor to run continously. Put 1 can in and see how numbers change.

 

[salongaopm]

what reading should I expect when the compressor is off and running?

thanks!

 

[ucluglee]

When the compressor is off, the gauge should peg at max. This is system pressure. When the compressor is on, the pressure reading will depend on outside air temp. Any can of refrigerant should have a chart printed on it for charging. I believe the 2000-ish year models hold about 22 ounces of refrigerant, and it looks like you will use1 1/2 small cans or one large can.

 

[salongaopm]

Thanks for all the replies!

I put one can of refrigerant with uv dye and found a big leak around the drier/accumulator sides.

 

[fixt]

Thanks for all the replies!

I put one can of refrigerant with uv dye and found a big leak around the drier/accumulator sides.

That is not unknown. It will need replacement of course.
The accumulator drier rusts through from condensation between the insulation and drier body.
O-rings, evacuation, orifice tube, oil, refrigerant... all that stuff. The orifice tube will tell much about system condition if it has crud on it and such.
Check the schrader valves as well for leaks.

Disclaimer: I am not a pro but I have managed to hack my way through recharging and learn quite a bit by reading and searching the AC section.

 

[salongaopm]

That is not unknown. It will need replacement of course.
The accumulator drier rusts through from condensation between the insulation and drier body.
O-rings, evacuation, orifice tube, oil, refrigerant... all that stuff. The orifice tube will tell much about system condition if it has crud on it and such.
Check the schrader valves as well for leaks.

Disclaimer: I am not a pro but I have managed to hack my way through recharging and learn quite by reading and searching the AC section.

I am not familiar with parts name of the car. Where can I find the schrader valves?

Thanks!

 

[fixt]

I am not familiar with parts name of the car. Where can I find the schrader valves?

Thanks!

Sorry, should have been more clear.
The schrader valves are the high and low side system access points where the hose hooks up with the quick couplers. They have caps on them and the low side is on top of the drier/accumulator. The high side is next to the battery. There's another smoke test point for the evaporative purge that has a green cap; ignore that one. It's down low on the fender liner by the battery about midway back.

The schrader valves are similar in appearance to tire valve cores, but they are not the same thing. You can see the valve stem if you look inside the male coupler.

A side note, the new O rings are green in color. I don't remember the lubricant for them

 

[ranger7ltr]

The o-ring lubricant is called Nylog...

Sorry, should have been more clear.
The schrader valves are the high and low side system access points where the hose hooks up with the quick couplers. They have caps on them and the low side is on top of the drier/accumulator. The high side is next to the battery. There's another smoke test point for the evaporative purge that has a green cap; ignore that one. It's down low on the fender liner by the battery about midway back.

The schrader valves are similar in appearance to tire valve cores, but they are not the same thing. You can see the valve stem if you look inside the male coupler.

A side note, the new O rings are green in color. I don't remember the lubricant for them

And it is amazing stuff to use on the automotive ac system o-rings...

Since you have the system apart now would be a great time to rebuild/replace the rubber hoses as well...And checking/replacing the schrader valves also helps to ensure that you have no leaks from them in the future...

One question is how much of the work are you planning to do on this system? You should be able to rent a vacuum pump and maybe even proper low/high side gauges to recharge the system... I don't remember if I have ever seen a scale for rent however...

 

[salongaopm]

I did a lot of laptop repairs but this will be my first try at fixing cars...so I do not know yet what I can or cannot do. A step by step instructions will give me a better idea of how much work I will/can do.

thanks!

 

[fixt]

I did a lot of laptop repairs but this will be my first try at fixing cars...so I do not know yet what I can or cannot do. A step by step instructions will give me a better idea of how much work I will/can do.

thanks!

Assuming no system charge( as in ZERO), otherwise refrigerant will need to be removed by a shop with reclamation capabilities

Buy suitable vacuum pump.
Buy AC manifold gauge set and can adapter
Buy a candy thermometer 0 F - 220 F approximate range
Buy appropriate orifice tube
Buy orifice tube removal tool(you might get by without it)
Buy AC spring lock disconnector tools (may be more than one size?)
Buy O ring kit
Buy O ring lubricant
Buy correct schrader valves
Buy schrader valve tool for removal/installation of the valve cores
Buy R134A refrigerant
Buy appropriate PAG refrigerant oil
Buy replacement accumulator drier
Buy a book about AC theory and service too, it will help

Be prepared to buy a flush kit depending on the orifice tube screen condition

Now you are ready to begin to start unless I left something out.


Step by step? There's a really good sticky at the top of the AC section in Under the Hood as was pointed out previously. You really really need to go read through those before continuing. You must get the principles of the job firmly established in your mind.
Maybe you can find a specific service manual. I'll tell you now that the Haynes are pretty generic and leave much to be desired.

I'm not here to discourage you but to point out some fairly expensive specialty tools required that you may never use again. I believe it will be less expensive for a good shop to do this repair for you but it all depends on what you are willing to invest in tools and in learning how to do it.

 

[salongaopm]

Thanks for the reply. I am trying to learn as much as I can by reading the forum. If I think this will be a more expensive diy job...I will probably just look for a good shop to do this repair for me.

Again, thanks for the reply.

 

[luv2fishnswim]

im trying to charge my ac, mine does the same thing, but when its running do I put in a full can?
I noticed if I do it while running then shut it off the pressure is way to high, am I doing something wrong?

 

[fixt]

Not trying to sound like a dick but,
Yes you are doing something wrong.
Not reading the stickys about charging, ambient temperatures and such.
Its on the AC forum a little further down.
ETA URL
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=123

I can't tell you how much to put in without knowing what the pressures are when running compressor engaged, requiring a gauge set. Running pressure compressor engaged probably about 34-37ish or so.
When shutdown, pressures are dependent on ambient temps and will equalize on both high and low sides of the compressor to read roughly the same.

You might just try for about 34 with the compressor engaged and call it good (if it works). Charge it while running, compressor engaged, set to max AC, windows down.
The gauges on the cans are notoriously inaccurate. And stop leak stuff is a system killer.