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Halogen to HID/HIR Headlight Upgrade

I didn't have the same problem, than again my comparison was from the regular Halogen bulbs to the HID. The attached photo is from about 5-6 feet away from the wall.

272554_795689959163_38212165_38903721_4095208_o1.jpg


The basic halogen bulb can be found on the left and the new HID 8k from Krypton Bulbs appears on the right.

On a side note, where did people mount the ballasts? I have that project set for tonight as I actually just installed the headlights this morning. (Somehow I lost one of the ballasts...) Anyways I'd love to see where and how some of you mounted them!
 



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I didn't have the same problem, than again my comparison was from the regular Halogen bulbs to the HID. The attached photo is from about 5-6 feet away from the wall.

The basic halogen bulb can be found on the left and the new HID 8k from Krypton Bulbs appears on the right.

On a side note, where did people mount the ballasts? I have that project set for tonight as I actually just installed the headlights this morning. (Somehow I lost one of the ballasts...) Anyways I'd love to see where and how some of you mounted them!

Thanks for posting this, I guess I'll give my HIDs another shot and try to figure out if they weren't in correctly because your cutoff lines look great. I haven't mounted my ballasts yet but I would recommend mounting them on a horizontal surface. They get quite hot so I wouldn't rely solely on double sided tape to keep them secure, I would think that the heat may cause the adhesive to weaken and release, so keep your eye on them. If I do finally put them in, I'll be looking for a spot that allows me to use zip ties too.
 






cryptiq said:
Finally got some time to snap off some quick and dirty pics. Overall, I'm not too thrilled with the HID bulbs. I'm curious if others that have done the upgrade are seeing the same cutoff lines as I have in these pics? IMO, the cutoff lines after doing the HID mod are not acceptable, it's throwing a lot of light at oncoming cars because the cutoff lines aren't right.

Just a couple thoughts on this:

-Don't forget the EX is a taller vehicle than your BMW. Wouldn't that explain why the lines are higher?

-The cut is not as surgical as you expected because of the projection lenses. They are calibrated for a certain bulb length and the HID's are longer than the regular bulbs, i.e. the source of light is slightly more forward = out of focus. But that's just my guess.
 






Just a couple thoughts on this:

-Don't forget the EX is a taller vehicle than your BMW. Wouldn't that explain why the lines are higher?

I wasn't using my BMW for comparison of the cutoff lines...I was comparing the left headlight (with HID) to the right side - both lights from my Explorer. My issue wasn't just the height of the cutoff, my problem was the cutoff is v-shaped, not horizontal (tried to highlight that in my pics). I haven't ruled out installer error so I'm going to give it another try. I ordered a set of replacement dust/moisture caps so I can modify them and have a unmodified set on hand in case I can't get my HIDs working right.

-The cut is not as surgical as you expected because of the projection lenses. They are calibrated for a certain bulb length and the HID's are longer than the regular bulbs, i.e. the source of light is slightly more forward = out of focus. But that's just my guess.

Yeah, that's what I was expecting to run into but the cutoff lines from Tilley's pics look pretty darn good. Whereas my cutoff lines lead me to believe the source of light in my HIDs is either slightly lower, or perhaps more forward/backwards than the stock bulb. If when I put the bulbs in again I have the same problem, I think I can rig up a single LED bulb to move it around in the lens and see if I can replicate the issue. In any case, I'm happy to see some good cutoff lines, gives me hope.
 






cryptiq said:
I wasn't using my BMW for comparison of the cutoff lines...I was comparing the left headlight (with HID) to the right side - both lights from my Explorer. My issue wasn't just the height of the cutoff, my problem was the cutoff is v-shaped, not horizontal (tried to highlight that in my pics). I haven't ruled out installer error so I'm going to give it another try. I ordered a set of replacement dust/moisture caps so I can modify them and have a unmodified set on hand in case I can't get my HIDs working right.

Oh, the V-mark is because there is a metal strip on the bulb, along the glass. It casts a shadow, that's what you see. I had the same issue (mine was an X-mark, not a V), and one of the reasons I undid the install.
 






Does anyone else have trouble with their auto on/off headlights after installing HIDs? When I initially start the car, the HIDs will flicker and once the car is started, the headlights wont turn on unless I turn the knob to headlight ON.

I'm thinking a relay harness would help?
 






Does anyone else have trouble with their auto on/off headlights after installing HIDs? When I initially start the car, the HIDs will flicker and once the car is started, the headlights wont turn on unless I turn the knob to headlight ON.

I'm thinking a relay harness would help?

I cannot say that I've had that issue. One thing that I did realize is that I had to flip my wire going from the power source to the HID ballast. I believe this is due to Reverse Polarity? I think if this was the issue though that you wouldn't even get the flicker at the start.
 






Here is a quick pic of how the cut off looks after HID install.

44332
 






Out of curiosity - doesn't the LTD come with HID lights? It may be more expensive, but why not buy the factory parts to convert over? I've actually been very satisfied with the halogen output on the wife's XLT.

For reference, I have a 2006 Tacoma that I converted over to HID (headlights & foglights). I hated it. I saw a lot of what the pictures above show - horrible cut off lines, extremely diffused/unfocused patterns, and degraded visibility. A little more research led me to the discussions on beam patterns and the housings. Sure, when you look at them from the perspective of another driver they are "bright", but that shouldn't be the deciding factor. After a year of this along with ballast problems, bulb problems, etc. I ripped the HID kit out, threw it in the trash, and put Silverstars in. Haven't had a problem yet.
 






Out of curiosity - doesn't the LTD come with HID lights? It may be more expensive, but why not buy the factory parts to convert over? I've actually been very satisfied with the halogen output on the wife's XLT.

The Limited does not come standard with HID but it does come with package 302A which in my opinion is required if you are going up to the Limited.

This package has the Navi, 10 way power seats for driver and passenger, power fold 3rd row, power liftgate, active parking assist, adaptive cruise control, rain sensing wipers, BLIS, and finally the HID.

I have a loaded Limited with this package, it is a phenomenal vehicle.
 






The Limited does not come standard with HID but it does come with package 302A which in my opinion is required if you are going up to the Limited.

This package has the Navi, 10 way power seats for driver and passenger, power fold 3rd row, power liftgate, active parking assist, adaptive cruise control, rain sensing wipers, BLIS, and finally the HID.

I have a loaded Limited with this package, it is a phenomenal vehicle.

Thanks for the clarification. I'd still be curious as to the process/price for the factory HID parts and then just going that route. You'd be assured of having a proper housing, bulbs, ballasts, etc.
 






Thanks for the clarification. I'd still be curious as to the process/price for the factory HID parts and then just going that route. You'd be assured of having a proper housing, bulbs, ballasts, etc.

The factory HID's are very nice. It seems that retrofitting HID to housing not designed for it is a bit of a kludge.
 






The factory HID's are very nice. It seems that retrofitting HID to housing not designed for it is a bit of a kludge.

My point exactly. It's different to cut up and piece together equipment on a Honda Civic. I'm not interested in hacking up a $38,000 vehicle.

Although, I guess if $38,000 is a sneeze then it's no big deal. Either way, I'd prefer the "factory" headlamps due to the amount of engineering that is behind them. I have yet to see an aftermarket solution that is worth it. And for the record, most of these systems have a cost of 20$, the vendors/retailers mark them back up to 300$ or whatever the off-the-shelf cost is to the consumer.
 






My point exactly. It's different to cut up and piece together equipment on a Honda Civic. I'm not interested in hacking up a $38,000 vehicle.

Although, I guess if $38,000 is a sneeze then it's no big deal. Either way, I'd prefer the "factory" headlamps due to the amount of engineering that is behind them. I have yet to see an aftermarket solution that is worth it. And for the record, most of these systems have a cost of 20$, the vendors/retailers mark them back up to 300$ or whatever the off-the-shelf cost is to the consumer.

Honestly if the purchase is a sneeze, they should have gotten the Limited with the headlights to begin with. I wandered into the showroom while I waiting for tires for my wife's car and all of sudden I bought myself a new car.

I purchased my first new car in 1992 and it was stripped base model. I always regretted that I didn't get more bells and whistles (not that I could afford it at the time). Every since I always get my vehicles fully loaded so I never have a regret about an option I should have gotten.
 






Oh, the V-mark is because there is a metal strip on the bulb, along the glass. It casts a shadow, that's what you see. I had the same issue (mine was an X-mark, not a V), and one of the reasons I undid the install.

UPDATE: After getting replacement dust/moisture caps that I could hack up with no worries, and trying the install again, my cutoff issue is resolved. For some reason, the bulb gave me some resistance going into the left housing and wasn't seated properly - this was causing the V shaped cutoff, not the metal strip. When you install the HID bulbs, that metal strip should be facing down towards the ground, so you shouldn't see a shadow from that unless you're using your high beams.
 






Couple questions since I have my '12 EX Ltd on order...

I'm researching various kits to put on my Ex when it arrives. Has anyone noticed problems when using the HID kits with the auto on/off function?

Are the stock bulbs 9005L which are high and low beam in one? Knowing that, are the kits installed in this thread bi-xenon?

Thanks for any help.
 






Has anyone done a guide on installing these? I have never swapped out headlights before, and before doing so want to make sure I don't mess anything up too bad since its a Lease. Would like some more power from the lights though.

Also when looking for HID kits, I see some sites mention 9005 as high beam, and have another number for low beam. Do you need two bulb sets, or just one?

For example here: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W
I select the 35W/5000K/ and the 9005/HB3. Some of the other models mention Hi/Lo. If someone can confirm if this is the correct kit and if I would need more it would be appreciated.

Thanks very much!
 






Has anyone done a guide on installing these? I have never swapped out headlights before, and before doing so want to make sure I don't mess anything up too bad since its a Lease. Would like some more power from the lights though.

Also when looking for HID kits, I see some sites mention 9005 as high beam, and have another number for low beam. Do you need two bulb sets, or just one?

For example here: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W
I select the 35W/5000K/ and the 9005/HB3. Some of the other models mention Hi/Lo. If someone can confirm if this is the correct kit and if I would need more it would be appreciated.

Thanks very much!

I'm going to order these... http://www.retrosolutionsllc.com/servlet/the-148/DIGITAL-HID-XENON-CONVERSION/Detail

I'm also going to order the time delay relay so I don't have to stop using the auto on/off functions in addition to load resistors to prevent flickering.

I know its a little pricer but I've E-mailed them several times and have gotten a response within 1 day. They seem very knowledgable.

I'll be interested to see how these kits look once installed... We shall know no later than October when my Ex arrives.

I too want to insure I don't mess anything up since this is a company car lease.

In regards to the high/low beam question I posted right above your post.... here's the response I got from Retro Solutions...

"Hello Eric,
The 9005L bulb, is the standard 9005 bulb size. The way it is producing the High/Low from the same bulb is all in the projector housing. When the high beam is engaged, a shield in the housing drops out of sight, and allows more light to pass through. The "L" at the end of the 9005 just stands for " long lasting". So our 9005 kit will work fine with your Explorer. However, you will need a relay harness with a capacitor link on it. If you want to go the route of the Time Delay Relay, that would work fine with your vehicle as well. "

Hope this helps.. I've been doing a lot of homework on this.
 






Has anyone done a guide on installing these? I have never swapped out headlights before, and before doing so want to make sure I don't mess anything up too bad since its a Lease. Would like some more power from the lights though.

Also when looking for HID kits, I see some sites mention 9005 as high beam, and have another number for low beam. Do you need two bulb sets, or just one?

For example here: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W
I select the 35W/5000K/ and the 9005/HB3. Some of the other models mention Hi/Lo. If someone can confirm if this is the correct kit and if I would need more it would be appreciated.

Thanks very much!

Hey, sorry I haven't been able to finish the write-up...we just had our first baby so there's not much free time for me at the moment. You only need to buy a single beam 9005/HB3 kit. The high/low beams on the Explorer use the same bulb. When you activate your high beams there is just a shield in your headlight housing that folds down. You DON'T need a hi/lo kit. The kit you mentioned is the kit I ordered. The 5000K will give you a slight blue tint. I have the 5000K as well, personally it's not that blue, but it's too blue for my taste. When the lights reflect back from street signs the bluish tint is somewhat annoying to me. If I had to do it all again, I would order a 4500K or 4700K kit. The only permanent modification required would be to the rubber moisture/dust cap that's on the back of the headlight housing. You need to cut a hole in this (GregV8 already put pictures of this in thread). I suggest taking the cap off and ordering 2 new ones. That way if you ever needed to go back to the OEM headlights for any reason, you can put a stock cap back on and keep dust/moisture out.
 



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I'm going to order these... http://www.retrosolutionsllc.com/servlet/the-148/DIGITAL-HID-XENON-CONVERSION/Detail

I'm also going to order the time delay relay so I don't have to stop using the auto on/off functions in addition to load resistors to prevent flickering.

I know its a little pricer but I've E-mailed them several times and have gotten a response within 1 day. They seem very knowledgable.

I'll be interested to see how these kits look once installed... We shall know no later than October when my Ex arrives.

I too want to insure I don't mess anything up since this is a company car lease.

In regards to the high/low beam question I posted right above your post.... here's the response I got from Retro Solutions...

"Hello Eric,
The 9005L bulb, is the standard 9005 bulb size. The way it is producing the High/Low from the same bulb is all in the projector housing. When the high beam is engaged, a shield in the housing drops out of sight, and allows more light to pass through. The "L" at the end of the 9005 just stands for " long lasting". So our 9005 kit will work fine with your Explorer. However, you will need a relay harness with a capacitor link on it. If you want to go the route of the Time Delay Relay, that would work fine with your vehicle as well. "

Hope this helps.. I've been doing a lot of homework on this.

That helps a lot, thank you very much for that information. I hope I get to get a set soon, we are going on a trip in September, and it would be nice to have these.
 






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