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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Cool! If you call up or email the company they should be able to tell you if it will work. Tell them its an 8.8 IRS 31 Spline and uses Circlips, not C-clips to hold the axles in.
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Are the Grizzly lockers selectable? I thought they were Yukon's version of the Detroit. If they are then that is basically a full-case automatic locker. I expect they would behave similar to the Aussie, in which case I think it would be a bad idea to put one in the front.
Not sure if these would work or not. They would definitely bolt up to the ring gears but not sure on getting the CV axles to lock into the sides. You'd probably have to give them a call and see.
Gonna be tough to re-gear and lock front and rear for 1500 I think. Main reason being the lockers I'd say, you probably have a friend who can setup your gears already. Maybe you can find a good used ARB setup or something like that for the front? I'd leave the front axle open or put a LS in it if you can't find a selectable locker for it.
well after looking at the aussie locker and my neck of the woods, i think ill be going with a Detroit electrac for the 8.8. my only issue is that im not sure if it can be modified to fit the irs pig. the reason im not going with the aussie is because ive heard they can be difficult driving in snow and ice and in michigan theres only two seasons, winter and construction so a selectable will be nice. decided against arb air locker because its pricey and i dont need onboard air
YGLD30-4-27 [28000] Yukon Grizzly locker, Dana 30, 27 spline, 3.73 & up. The Yukon Grizzly locker is a mechanical locking differential. It features a forged case and 8620 internals for maximum strength. It's patented design reduces common locker failures. All units assembled in the USA! Compatible with Differentials: • Dana 30 Front, Crush Sleeve Design, Grand Cherokee • Dana 30 Front, Crush Sleeve Design, TJ Wrangler • Dana 30 Front, JK Non-Rubicon • Dana 30 Front, Reverse Rotation • Dana 30 Front, Standard Rotation • Dana 30 Rear
The way I read it says mechanical locking diff though I don't see what you'd use to lock them... May have to call Yukon http://www.yukongear.com/PartsList....,+'01-'05+Ford+Front&CatID=36&CatName=Lockers
They list this as for the super 30 and also other 30's so yeah Idk this is their zip locker air locker
Mechanical locker means it doesn't use clutches. This is probably similar to the Detroit Locker and is not "un-lockable" externaly. Looking at the case I would say there is no way it would work with axle clips, as there is no way to get into the case when it is mounted.
Yeah 2Trux is right it's basically the same thing as a Detroit locker meaning that it's always locked when you're going straight and on the throttle...same way an Aussie or other lunchbox locker works.
Now the air locker up front would be a good idea if you're going to lock the front at all.
Why not just do an aussie in the rear and an air locker in the front?
BTW I saw your other post about on board air, I am installing a Viair OBA kit inside the cargo floor area....writeup coming soon.
Yeah 2Trux is right it's basically the same thing as a Detroit locker meaning that it's always locked when you're going straight and on the throttle...same way an Aussie or other lunchbox locker works.
Now the air locker up front would be a good idea if you're going to lock the front at all.
Why not just do an aussie in the rear and an air locker in the front?
BTW I saw your other post about on board air, I am installing a Viair OBA kit inside the cargo floor area....writeup coming soon.
do you have third row seats because I don't have much space in the back that wouldn't look clean I was thinking plumb a compressor under the hood to minimize noise
In sum, the first time I installed it, my stock cross-shaft was apparently made from Ford's too soft metal batch. It caused engaging & disengaging in a straight line, which progressively got so bad it was unbearable to drive (if anything, my tolerances were on the tight side). I had to put up a big fight to get a replacement Aussie, which I then installed using Powertrax' "Zytanium" cross-shaft.
This has worked well for a long time now (over 1.5 years), but I feel my new locker is now "wearing out" again and I'm getting clunking in slow speed straight line accelerating.
I'm starting to think this locker isn't made hard enough to handle the weight (33" tires), power (SOHC), and/or direct-connection (manual trans) for these trucks. Has anyone else experience these long term side effects? Or is it expected that these lockers have a limited lifetime?
Still working perfectly here. I used the Zytanium shaft as well. I was also extremely careful with making sure the locker met all the correct clearances when it was installed.
Nothing lasts forever but I expect as long as you are running it with a good quality lube and it was in tolerances when installed then I expect it would last quite a while.
Still working perfectly here. I used the Zytanium shaft as well. I was also extremely careful with making sure the locker met all the correct clearances when it was installed.
Nothing lasts forever but I expect as long as you are running it with a good quality lube and it was in tolerances when installed then I expect it would last quite a while.
My clearances were always very tight. I could not use brand new washers (which according to Ford come in only one thickness and there are no aftermarket ones) because I wouldn't even be able to get the cross-shaft in, but I consulted with Aussie, and they OK'ed my used washers. They were in good condition, I just wonder why they were noticeably thinner. Maybe just from the normal wear.
Anyway, the 2nd time around, my clearances were just at the bare minimum of the scales, but Aussie reassured that too tight is OK, they are much more concerned about too loose.
I used Lucas 75W-140 full synthetic the 2nd time around (I think I used Mobil 1 75W-90 full synth the first time). The 140 is literally twice the price as the 90 ($10 vs $20 per quart and you need 2).
I think I have to open up the pumpkin soon anyway to work on my parking brake (trying to avoid since its going to cost $40 of lube), so I'll see if I can inspect any wear in the locker's teeth.
Most cars come with a standard "open" differential. An Open Diff competently does it's main job of allowing the outside wheel to rotate at a faster speed than the insider wheel during a turn. However, a phenomenon of the Open Diff is that when one wheel loses traction, the engine sends no power to the wheel with traction - this is the opposite of what you want when off-roading.
The 2 fixes is to have a Limited Slip Differential (LSD) or a Locker. LSD is more street friendly; while a Locker is more extreme for hardcore off-roading.
You basically cannot drive on the street with a full-time Locker; it should be reserved for trailered dedicated off-road rigs; therefore part-time Lockers are the way to go if you need to drive on the street too. There are pneumatically/electronically controlled lockers that can be activated by the driver flipping a switch; this is an option in some off-road production cars like the Wrangler Rubicon. Then there are automatic part-time lockers that de-activate when you are turning while applying little to no gas. The advantage of an Auto Locker is that it requires no external routing of air hoses or wires into the driver's cabin.
The Aussie Locker is an Auto Locker. It also falls under the sub-category of a "Lunchbox" locker, which means you do not have to remove the ring gear & carrier to install, which greatly reduces tools, time, know-how & money in installation.
When you put in a locker or LSD, do you have to take out ring and pinion? I wanted to get an Eaton tru trac before I got diff rebuild done but had to buy a new washer over the weekend so that money is gone, starting over. Just woundering if its like rebuilding diff again should I just wait til I have everything
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It seems like the more I read this thread, the more I don't want to take out my differential to do this. When I get around to doing mine, do I have to take the differential out? Or can I just get the truck up high enough to work on it without removing it?
