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How to restore door pillars

Guys, be careful of those HF buffers. I went through 3 of them on one car. The switch/speed control units like to burn up fast and then they lose speed control. If you're going to run a wool pad, one burn-through of paint due to a fast and out of control buffer is all you need to seriously ruin your week.

Also- there is a huge difference between a rotary buffer and a DA like the PC that the OP is using. One is beginner friendly, one is not. You can do just about anything you want with a DA, and it is a LOT safer in your hands. I've been detailing for... wow- a few decades- I'm freakin old... :( And now that Meg's is selling the Microfiber DA kit, the stuff is so amazing, I don't even use a rotary anymore.

Just be careful if you're going to use a rotary... And practice on a junkyard hood. :)
 



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i did most of the work today all i need to do it sand with 2000 grit tomorrow and buff / polish them and im done with the side ones :)

Post pics!



@Joe, I've been detailing for 11 years now (since I was 16). Amazing how the detailing world has changed. I have a PC7424 (w/6" backing plate), PC7424XP(w/5" backing plate) and a PC7428 rotary. Literally used the rotary 3 times in the last 100+ details. With the new compounds, there is really a minimal need for one.
 






will do ill set up a photo bucket account and post em tonight or tomorrow :) and ty joe ill be mad as hell if this buffer breaks AZ will get it shuved up somewhere real quick. i heard alot of bad things about rotary if u dont know what ur doing and i dont so i went out and bought that DA one. ty for the heads up. ive been detailing myself for 3 years but like i said have NEVER buffed before. unless u consider that powerball thing a buffer i have used those alot.
 












PillerTrim.jpg


Wonder if this will work lol
 






woot lol altho this want the best pic i apologize this is pre buff. buffing happens tomorrow at 4 pm lol
 






@Joe, I've been detailing for 11 years now (since I was 16). Amazing how the detailing world has changed. I have a PC7424 (w/6" backing plate), PC7424XP(w/5" backing plate) and a PC7428 rotary. Literally used the rotary 3 times in the last 100+ details. With the new compounds, there is really a minimal need for one.


It's true- with the tools available now both in machine and compound, the risk of a rotary is something you can love without 95%+ of the time... :thumbsup:

@2002- good choice on the DA- waaaay safer.

my '99 SHO after some bodywork and a DA:

IMG_1845-2.jpg




to

IMG_1958.jpg





It's totally possible... :)
 






wow real nice looking work joe :)
 






Not bad for a spray can fix... :D
 






Unreal stuff here guys!

And on the yoga pants... On a good day, they only look good on about 2% of the female population. Sadly, far more than 2% wear them...

Mike
 






Agreed Mike-

Yoga pants are like spandex- they're a privilege, not a right. :)
 






Great write up. Thanks for the pics. Going to see if I can find Oracal 751 here in greenville,nc.
 






Find any decent sign supply shop like SignSmith and they will carry Oracal, 3M, or another type of weather-rated vinyl...
 






Unreal stuff here guys!

And on the yoga pants... On a good day, they only look good on about 2% of the female population. Sadly, far more than 2% wear them...

Mike

Sorry to hear. I live in a pretty nice area filled with trophy wives who all fall under the 'privileged' category :D


Great write up. Thanks for the pics. Going to see if I can find Oracal 751 here in greenville,nc.


You can get it on ebay, but unfortunately from a quick search it looks like it's all 10yrd rolls or larger. You could probably get away with 1yrd if you watch your sizing and trust yourself not to mess up but otherwise pick up 2 yrds to be safe.

Also, I edited the vinyl post, You only need the 24" x (x) yards as the rear pillars (the largest) are only 22" long. You don't need to waste money on the 30" sheets like I did.


But like Joe said, Any local sign manufacturing/supply shop should have vinyl that you can purchase by the yard, Doesn't need to be Oracal, Just make sure it's rated for outdoor use.
 






mikeinri said:
Unreal stuff here guys!

And on the yoga pants... On a good day, they only look good on about 2% of the female population. Sadly, far more than 2% wear them...

Mike

Idk about you, but I live on the beach... Yoga is done in bikinis here..... :D
 






A co-worker of mine was really jealous of my pillars and demanded I do the ones on her XLS so I gave it a go with the vinyl today.

Here are the results
DSC_1768.jpg

DSC_1772.jpg

DSC_1776.jpg

DSC_1779.jpg

DSC_1781.jpg

DSC_1782.jpg


Took 3 hours to do all 6 pillars. That includes removal and reinstall of side pillars and sanding prior to laying the vinyl. Laying the vinyl and heat shrinking the edges only took about 40 minutes for all the them :D

I love this stuff!
 






Looks great I want to do mine soon. All I need is the time. Planning to do my 92 and 2000.
 






I found a small sheet of Oracal 751 in gloss black on eBay for $5.39 (free shipping). It was only enough to do the two rear liftgate panels. It's also available in other sizes and colors, and even carbon fiber look.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gloss-Black...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f0c7b03fd

I didn't have much luck installing it on my truck. As described in previous posts above, I used 2000 grit sand paper to wet sand off the loose and flaking clear coat prior to application of the vinyl cover. The rear panels' curvature makes applying the vinyl somewhat difficult. I first made a paper template to allow cutting the sheet vinyl more precisely to match the panel.

Since the rear panels are curved in two directions, making paper templates directly is rather difficult; so I used a piece of Saran wrap and cutout the outline using a rasor blade. The Saran wrap could then be placed on paper flatly, permitting making a paper template. I then used the paper template to cut the vinyl, however I allowed an additional 1/4" overlap all the way around.

The instructions sheet that came with the product was for covering headlights and stated to spray water on it with the application. It also said to use a credit card if a squeege wasn't available. I didn't use a hot air gun which may have been my problem. After applying the vinyl, I used a rasor blade to cut the edges.

Looks good from 10 feet. Anyway its done. I have some small wrinkles on one side and another small defect on the other. Most won't notice. I also waxed and polished away the credit card scratches.
 






quick questions for everyone, this process would in turn work on anything plastic right?

The reason im asking is im tired of painting my ATV twice a year and im pretty sure this would make my fenders look brand new.

The only problem i would see is all of the lines and curves might have to be compounded by hand.
 



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so i had a question. i decided to go the vinyl root, did all the side pillers and rear funny thing is the front 2 ( pass and driver) have a ton of bubble now. they didnt before i had them all smooth and nice but now it looks like a bumpy gravel road. any idea what i did wrong? or a way to avoid it next time cus i need to redo them they look like crap, thanks. can also post pic if wanted.
 






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