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Solved Torsion Bar 101, Everything you Need to look for!

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
if you do a search for replacing the lower control arms there will probably be a write up on it which should include instructions on how to do that if it needs to be done or just search how to disconnect the torsion bar.
 



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Anyone have any how to's on changing lower control Arm which requires removal of torsion bars on 2001 explorer, or is this out of a junior mechanics league.

Joe

I don't know if there is a write up for LCA changing, it is not for the faint of heart.

You have to unload the torsion bars by removing the bolts, then the thick piece of metal the bolt goes through to unload the bar. The bar will come right out then, the key should be marked for orientation, as should the torsion bar in relation to the LCA. If the bar isn't rusted solid in the LCA, it slides out. In my mind its relatively simple, but I became intimately knowledgeable of the 96-01 IFS.

Why do you want to change the LCA?
 






i have a 96 x with 203000 miles on it. It runs mint as ever but Im replacing the passengers CV axle and wanted t do a tt while it was on the lift. im wondering if because of the miles if i should worry about snapping the adjuster bolts. and yes its been in the mud. I dont have much rot underneath for a ri x either. Any replies would be helpful thanks
 






do you crank both bolts or just one?.. so confused cuz so many postings say "torsion bar adjusting BOLt - not "bolts". kind of confused. I want to raise my front just slightly and have the front currently jacked up only
thanks
 






do you crank both bolts or just one?.. so confused cuz so many postings say "torsion bar adjusting BOLt - not "bolts". kind of confused. I want to raise my front just slightly and have the front currently jacked up only
thanks


1 bolt per side, make sure you do your height measurements before & after. :D:D
 






hey man great article. thanx. will give it a try.
 






so how do you know a previous owner hasnt already cranked the adj. bolt a few turns? you can't just start off with a fender measurement then add 2". In my case the adj. bolt bottomed out after only raising the front @ 1.25". So now i am leary of buying a longer bolt to try to gain that last 3/4".
 






Torton Key anyone

Anyone max out the tortion bar and buy a tortion key which is supposed to give it another 1-3 inches? Im a newbie and thats what ive seen and my buddy tells me, is that OK to do or will it cause damages? Thanks
 






How is this thread still going?! And people continue to spell "torsion" wrong.

A torsion (not torton or tortion) key does the same thing as tightening the bolt. So using a torsion 'lift' key and then doing the TT, there is a good chance you will exceed the recommended 2" of lift. So I would do the TT first, and if you don't get as much lift as you'd like, then either get a new key and adjust the bolts accordingly, or get longer bolts.
 






hey guys, i have a 99 b4000 se. i just got a 3in lift BUT its the crappy style with torsion keys for the front and it came with an add a leaf for the rear. i also bought a set of 2in lift shackles to combine with the leaf for around 3in lift. im also going to be doing the manual hub locker conversion from rough country. my question is, since im replacing those vacuum lockers with manual, does anyone think my drive shafts will be alright with the 3in lifting keys up front since the shafts wont be spinning at all anymore unless theyre locked in? i only use 4x4 when i need to like in the snow or if id get stuck somewhere so im not going to be in 4 wheel much besides blizzards in winter. thanks guys. im stoked to get the truck done this weekend. got new cooper discoverer st maxx tires 285/75/16 with new 16in rock crawler rims, trail master ssv +4 shocks, and i also have a custom k&n intake and exhaust.
 






would lifting an explorer with a torsion bar adjustment be the same or better than using a leveling kit?
 






Mechanically define what a "leveling kit" is composed of and then we'll be able to do a comparison.
 






Seems like adding the warrior shackles is a great way to raise the ass on these x's. Mine is lower than the front.
15668272_large.jpg
 






please some advise or help

I have a 1997 explorer and my drivers side bolt is tightened all the way up and the passenger has never been touched and the vehicle sits perfectly level in the front why is that like that ... And. Is there a kit for wedges or different style of key ways to order for these to fix the problem so I would be able to do my version bar lift at all??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you...
 






It's like that because somebody intentionally used the torsion bar adjusters to make it like that. That's what they're for. They compensate for minor variations in complex assemblies that are made from numerous parts, each of which has its own minor variations that make it slightly different.

Ford didn't put the adjusting bolts and keys in because they thought it would be nice if their customers could raise and lower their vehicles at will - they did it so they wouldn't get stuck trying to sell a bunch of crooked looking new trucks, and it was cheaper than boosting quality to the level it would take to use a non-adjustable setup that just bolted together and sat level every time.

if you are very lucky, yours will be level with both sides adjusted the same. You can use the full range up or down without losing any range to compensate for side-to-side differences.

If you are very, very, very unlucky you might have to have one side fully "in" and the other side fully "out" to get it level. If that was the case, then ALL of the adjustment range would be used leveling it, and you'd have no range left to use to raise or lower it. Again,
this is what the factory intended. The adjusters are there so it will sit straight on the dealership floor. They don't care about how far the adjusters are turned.

But yes, there may be a fix for you!!!

I have seen multi-index torsion bar keys on Ebay. This means that the key itself is adjustable. In addition to the range you get from the adjustment screws, the keys have an inner socket that can be turned to different settings, so you can set it like a stock key, or a lift key, or a lowering ke
Of course, they cost more. For the money, you could get a new pair of torsion barsy.
 






Anyway, something like that would let you raise & lower at will, but you have to unload the bars to change keys, and if you're going to do that then new bars might be better, iirc they were $160, about what new bars + lift keys would.cost. If there's a big difference between left & right, then you might have a soft bar. Or not.

After reading 24 pages I have seen dozens of people who have been told that they are limited to 2" torsion twist. In the majority of cases, I found nothing whatsoever to indicate the person asking the question was talking about a four wheel drive. Assumptions lead to misinformation and confusion!

I don't feel TOO sorry for these people because they should read the whole thread like I did, but then again, they may not be too forum-wise either.

Also, I keep seeing people being told to do a search. They don't need to do a search, they're already here. This is the right thread. They've already found it. They don't need to search, they just need to go back to the first page.

For those who want to know how much lift or drop you can get, I measured a 4-1/2" difference between "fully up" and "fully down" on my '01 sport trac 2wd which has the "B" torsion bars.
 






I have a 1997 explorer and my drivers side bolt is tightened all the way up and the passenger has never been touched and the vehicle sits perfectly level in the front why is that like that ... And. Is there a kit for wedges or different style of key ways to order for these to fix the problem so I would be able to do my version bar lift at all??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you...

http://www.zabteck.com/bolts.htm
 












...and it seems pretty much level front/rear when it's in the middle of that range, so that means if "stock" is level, then it can go a couple inches either way. As stated near the beginning, softer bars will give less range, unless they're in a lighter vehicle. If you want to know exactly how much less, look at the ratio of the spring rates.

CV joints are not much affected by gravity, so they don't care how much you raise or lower your vehicle or whether the previous owner did it or how much higher or lower it is in comparison to some arbitrary "stock height". CV joints are affected by angle. If you jack the front wheels off the ground and observe the extreme shaft angles, that's what breaks them offroad. If you look at the shafts sitting at normal ride height, this is the angle where your day-to-day wear will occur. If it is straight, the CV's will last. If it is not straight, they will wear faster. How much faster depends on how much they're not straight. It's not like a 1-3/4" difference will wear as slowly as a straight shaft and then at 2" it just suddenly wears out in 100 miles! The more angle, the more wear. Besides, that height/angle goes all over the place as you drive. At either height, the CV's will be bending to all diffetent angles as you drive, it's just that the more you lift or drop it, the more angle they have to deal with. So... If you're worried about how lift or drop will affect your CV's, forget about fender height. Forget about "stock height". Forget about whether it's been
 



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...raised or lowered previously. Just look at the half shafts, forget the rest. If the inner and outer CV are level, great. If not, measure the difference between the inner and outer CV height.

I realize this has been posted already, but people don't seem to get it, so i'm trying to clarify.

2wd - crank them up as high as they'll go!!! Or drop it to the bumpstops - they're very soft!
4wd - ditto, just be aware the CV's will wear faster the more the angle. If you want to keep it under 2", measure the difference between the inner & outer CVs, because that's the part that actually matters.
 






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