Regearing to 4.10's (need advice) | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Regearing to 4.10's (need advice)

Explorin'VA

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 7, 2012
Messages
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City, State
P-twn
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 xlt
I'm currently running 31's on my 4.0 v6 OHV and plan on moving up to 33's max. My stock gears are worn and I need that feeling of more power. I considered doing an SAS but for what I use it for I decided to stick with the d35 and 8.8, for now. I know it wont be cheap, but I'm trying to completely re-gear with everything I may need for as cheaply as possible. Front/rear ring and pinion, master rebuild kit, and front/rear lockers. I know there's plenty of helpful threads on here but I need some specific help with parts and whatnot.

Already have:
front D35 TTB 4.10 ring and pinion
rear 8.8 4.10 ring and pinion from G2

Need:
front/rear rebuild kit
front/rear locker

I'm just looking for advice on which parts to order. I found reverse cut front end gears and rebuild kit here: http://www.jamesoaksenterprises.com/products/d28-d35_gears.htm
I was gonna go with the 4.10's from Nitro, but what install kit would I go with?

Good front locker?
http://www.aussielocker.com/index.php/aussie-locker-xd-13527.html
Good rear locker?
http://www.aussielocker.com/index.php/aussie-locker-xd-48831.html

If there's any other parts I may need besides tools please let me know. Thanks
 



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What is your ratio now? If you plan on going to a 33" tire 4.10 will be fine for highway driving but most that regear go steeper for wheeling purposes.

If you check in the thread in my sig line there is a bit of info there, seems to me you need a spreader for the front, I think Junkie has a thread in there mentioning it. Also a neat trick to have a drain for the front diff.

I have 3.73's and 31" tires. I am going to go with a 33" and regear to 4.88 or 5.13. Won't know until I hit "Buy" ha ha ha...
 






If your target ratio is 4.10 and you're trying to keep it as cheap as possible - it would probably be more cost effective and less time consuming to just swap in an entire rear axle that already has 4.10 gears. You can probably even convert to disc brakes in the rear and get rid of the drums. I'm not sure where you are but in Maryland, there are a few "Crazy Rays" junk yards and I think an entire axle assembly runs around $100. Then all you'd need to worry about is the front.

Site: http://www.crazyraysautoparts.com/
 






Yea go to pick and pull and get a whole rear end from a newer explorer with disc breaks.best improvement you can do.make sure to get an open tho if you plan on running a locker.

BUT my advice would be to go to 4.56 for 33s.you wont be disappointed especially if you cant find a cheap 4.10 in the junk yard
 






I'm currently running 31's on my 4.0 v6 and plan on moving up to 33's max. My stock gears are worn and I need that feeling of more power. I considered doing an SAS but for what I use it for I decided to stick with the d35 and 8.8, for now. I know it wont be cheap, but I'm trying to completely re-gear with everything I may need for as cheaply as possible. Front/rear ring and pinion, master rebuild kit, and front/rear lockers. I know there's plenty of helpful threads on here but I need some specific help with parts and whatnot.

Already have:
rear 8.8 ring and pinion from G2

Need:
front d35 ttb ring and pinion
front/rear rebuild kit
front/rear locker

I'm just looking for advice on which parts to order. I found reverse cut front end gears and rebuild kit here: http://www.jamesoaksenterprises.com/products/d28-d35_gears.htm
I was gonna go with the 4.10's from Nitro, but what install kit would I go with?

Good front locker?
http://www.aussielocker.com/index.php/aussie-locker-xd-13527.html
Good rear locker?
http://www.aussielocker.com/index.php/aussie-locker-xd-48831.html

If there's any other parts I may need besides tools please let me know. Thanks

Ring and pinion from a G2?? Huh:scratch:
 






BUT my advice would be to go to 4.56 for 33s.you wont be disappointed especially if you cant find a cheap 4.10 in the junk yard

I'll second this. It's what I run. Effective ratio is about the same as stock sized tires with 4.10 gears.
 






A lot of good advice is in this thread for you. If your budget does force you to go "as cheaply as possible" then a stock 4.10 axle with disk brakes from the boneyard is by far your best bet for an upgrade. If you can pay more to re-gear and you have the 4.0 OHV, skip the 4.10 and go to 4.56 gears (if this is also your daily driver, IMO 4.88 gearing may be going a little too far; certainly so with 5.13 ratio).

From personal experience I can say that a SOHC seems to handle 33" tires with 4.10 gears fine... but believe an OHV is gonna feel a little anemic with that same setup when you hit the trail.
 






A lot of good advice is in this thread for you. If your budget does force you to go "as cheaply as possible" then a stock 4.10 axle with disk brakes from the boneyard is by far your best bet for an upgrade. If you can pay more to re-gear and you have the 4.0 OHV, skip the 4.10 and go to 4.56 gears (if this is also your daily driver, IMO 4.88 gearing may be going a little too far; certainly so with 5.13 ratio).

From personal experience I can say that a SOHC seems to handle 33" tires with 4.10 gears fine... but believe an OHV is gonna feel a little anemic with that same setup when you hit the trail.

4.56 & 33s are perfect for dd.5.13 would be WAYYYY to much even for wheeling unless its a crawl rig.I run 4.88 & 36x14.50 and its not enough but great dd.I also have a set of 33" street tires I run for city fun with 4.88s and its perfect.but its not ideal for long highway trips, rpms are up over 3000 @65, basically like I dont have OD
 






I should add a little more info. I only have 2 inches of lift right now and wanted to put my money towards gears before buying a new lift kit. So the max tire size I can run would be 32s. I'm gonna add a custom 1 inch body lift soon but that still pretty much limits me to 32s with room to flex. So I'll probably be running those for a while. Should I still go for 4.56s? This is my daily driver and I already have front and rear 4.10s at this point. :confused:

I know everyone here recommends going big the first time around because you're always gonna want to later lol.

Ring and pinion from a G2?? Huh:scratch:
Yeah G2 is just the company who makes them.
 






I should add a little more info. I only have 2 inches of lift right now and wanted to put my money towards gears before buying a new lift kit. So the max tire size I can run would be 32s. I'm gonna add a custom 1 inch body lift soon but that still pretty much limits me to 32s with room to flex. So I'll probably be running those for a while. Should I still go for 4.56s? This is my daily driver and I already have front and rear 4.10s at this point. :confused:

I know everyone here recommends going big the first time around because you're always gonna want to later lol.


Yeah G2 is just the company who makes them.

Your probably going to need more than 3" to clear 33s.I had 5.5" with 33x12.50 and would rub.if you got 4.10 and its your dd then your be fine
 






I should mention that I have a terrible "go big or go home" mentality. I also drive less than 5 minutes to work and if I did need to commute I'd buy a diesel jetta...:D
 






I'd say stick with the 4.10's and 31's for now and save your money for a 5.5" lift with a SOA in the rear and 33's with 4.56 gears.

It'll be twice as much work to go with 32's and new gears, only to redo it all again later for the 5.5" and 33's. It'll also be twice the hassle in buying more new parts and selling the old ones.

Besides, you can usually find someone on here who is doing a SAS and selling off their 5.5" lift or at least parts of it you can put a lift together with.

There is also the 33 x 10.50 tire option if you want the height but don't have the lift to deal with the width.
 






I think my stock gears are 3.27s, I'm not sure but they definitely aren't 3.73s. My original plan was to swap in some 4.10s since my gears were worn when I checked them, get some first hand experience with gearing, overhaul the hubs, and stick with my current lift. Then when I have some money saved up swap in a solid axle up front and do an SOA in the rear and sell all my old parts.

But it would also make sense to stick with my current gears and lift, find a dana30 which i can easily get for $100, an 8.8 with disk brakes for around $100 also, leave them off while I get them geared and built, and then swap them when they're ready. I just don't have experience with fabricating or what it takes to set up a straight axle in place of the ttb. I wonder if I could get around 6" of lift with leaf springs up front?

I'll figure it out! Thanks for all the help so far.
 






I think my stock gears are 3.27s, I'm not sure but they definitely aren't 3.73s. My original plan was to swap in some 4.10s since my gears were worn when I checked them, get some first hand experience with gearing, overhaul the hubs, and stick with my current lift. Then when I have some money saved up swap in a solid axle up front and do an SOA in the rear and sell all my old parts.

But it would also make sense to stick with my current gears and lift, find a dana30 which i can easily get for $100, an 8.8 with disk brakes for around $100 also, leave them off while I get them geared and built, and then swap them when they're ready. I just don't have experience with fabricating or what it takes to set up a straight axle in place of the ttb. I wonder if I could get around 6" of lift with leaf springs up front?

I'll figure it out! Thanks for all the help so far.
Your be down grading if you go to a dana 30
 






Yeah I've heard that but I still see a lot of people running them. What axle swap is most common that's not full-width?
 






Upgrading to 33x12.50's and a Mountaineer 4.10 rear end from my factory LT235/75 tires and 3.73 rear end did NOT change my speedometer at all, the effective ratio stayed very close. I never saw any reason to go 4.56's with 33's, especially if you plan to drive on the highway at all afterwards. Then again... my 4.0 makes a little more torque than the average one :(. I towed a 6000lb trailer from Hagerstown to Richmond with no issues.

Most common non full width axle swap is probably a Jeep Wagoneer's D44.
 






Yeah I've heard that but I still see a lot of people running them. What axle swap is most common that's not full-width?


I would say keep what you have. The D35 TTB is a very good axle that some people refuse to give it the credit it's due. It has the same axle u-joints as a D44 and without having neckdowns on it's stock shafts, is very close in strength as well. The stock locking hubs are known to be weak, but it literally is a 15-second swap for a pair of Warn Jeep hubs if you already have manual hubs (if you have auto hubs, then figure in replacing the wheel bearing locknuts, what 5 minutes a side?). All the common lockers out there are available for it too.
It's capable of spinning 35" tires all day long no problem. You said you wanted 33s, so you're well within it's limits.
 






I like the d35 too. Ill be converting the auto hubs to manual really soon and hoping to find out why it clunks so badly when 4x4 is engaged.
 






I run 36x14.50 aussie locked front d35 with stock manual hubs.im not easy on it by no means and im putting down way more than stock hp/tq.I have only broke one hub, why I run stock ones tho.to me a solid swap is not worth it till I really start breaking stuff, I put the money elsewhere; )
 



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I feel ya there man. How's the aussie on the streets? Locked front and rear would be sweet but it is a daily driver. Regardless I'm gonna put a LS 8.8 in the back before I regear.
 






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