Sway Bar Bushing Replacement | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Sway Bar Bushing Replacement

Good aftermarket/off-road performance bushings?

Hi, What a valuable and insightful post. I see it was posted back in '07 yet others still benefit today!

I have a '05 explorer and I am about to change my bushings for the 2nd time in a span of a couple of years. They don't seem to last very long?? Can anyone recommend a high quality, aftermarket/off-road bushing that can stand the punishment of curvy driving that will last longer than a year? How about a good website to get aftermarket parts. Thanks for the help and thanks for this post!!!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





installation tip

I just replaced mine this evening. If you have trouble with getting the length right between the sway bar and the lower control arm just park over a spot that works for you, like an incline or something. You could also use a jack but I didn't have one available. It doesn't take much to get the length too short or too long for installation.
 






Photos are removed? Did anyone save the photos in the original post?
 






Nice write up. Im glad some of you pointed out symptoms of bad sway bar end links and bushings...

But i was wondering why NONE of you considered getting OEM sway bar bushings and end link kits from Ford. From my experience, OEM is always better than aftermarket....especially for a non- performance car.


And a quick question...you have all made it clear to NOT over tighten the endlink bushings....does this also apply to the upper shock absorber bushings?

Thanks!
 






But i was wondering why NONE of you considered getting OEM sway bar bushings and end link kits from Ford. From my experience, OEM is always better than aftermarket....especially for a non- performance car.

And a quick question...you have all made it clear to NOT over tighten the endlink bushings....does this also apply to the upper shock absorber bushings?
Agree, with the exception of replacement OEM suspension and brake parts.
The stock replacements are not greaseable and usually command higher prices.
Factory end links use hard plastic bushings that require higher torque. (18 lbs)
Aftermarket bushings are poly or rubber and require only about half the tightness.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...gZGECw&usg=AFQjCNHXt8MbOPjgzXZQ83ffyQY9FZ0B7Q
 






the original pics would be most appreciated. the old bushings were just gone! bolts are ok, but the sleave on one side is shot. i made my best guess on the sequence but i can't get everything to snug up. Help!
 












- 6 pack of Diet Coke
- 3 Johnsonville Brats

I love it hwo you added thes in there:)
 






Chiming in on this one about 5 years late!

I built up a '76 Lemans a few years ago. I used super stiff springs and sway bars. I used poly bushing for the links and sway bar. It was tight as hell, but the bushing were destroyed in short order. I think the poly bushings are great for race track or high performance car if you don't mind changing them often. But on street use they just can't take the shock from road bumps. There's no damping in them so something has to give. And really, I think that little bit that rubber gives is probably not so noticeable on a truck.

Just my two cents worth...
 






Thanks for the write up as it was very helpful in replacing the end links on my 98 XLT 2WD. I had to use a jack to lift the drivers side A-arm as it has developed a gangster lean and torqued the sway bar a bit. The sound was very annoying and with this vehicle being a "new to me" truck, the clunk didn't inspire confidence in it's road worthiness. The beast has 187K miles but drives pretty good. Thanks again!
 






I'm gonna attempt mine today even though it's raining, just because I need to get down there anyway and see where my suspension squeaks are coming from.
 






My $0.02 worth about poly bushes.
You need to get the right hardness measured as shore A or shore B for your application.
Sometimes you need an elastic bush sometimes you need a bush nearly as hard as steel; and they don't interchange well.

The 2 things that go wrong with poly bushes are they crumble or they will deform and not come back.
Crumbling seems to be the dye used.
The deforming is just bad poly.

If you get the right bushes they will work better than OEM in most cases.

DON'T lubricate pu bushes with moly grease even if it's supplied in the kit, it will gall.
Use teflon grease.
 






I'm gonna attempt mine today even though it's raining, just because I need to get down there anyway and see where my suspension squeaks are coming from.

You can use soapy water in a spray bottle to track down bush squeaks.
Or WD40, it's mostly fish oil so it shouldn't destroy your rubber.
 






I put the new bushings on and sprayed them with WD40. Also or some white lightening and sprayed it on my tie rod, ball joints, shocks, and end links only to be told today it eats away rubber.

My front end sounds horrible when I go over speed bumps. Pretty sure I've damaged most everything :/
 






Sorry it's white lithium grease. Is that known for eating away rubber? There's no warnings on the back but it's primarily focused on metal bearings and tools of the sort
 






why did you remove the pictures?
 






Back
Top