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Walking Dead - 1999 Explorer 4x4 XLT (174K) - PICS




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shocks wont fix your lean you will need to fix the rear springs. I had similar measurements and new shocks did nothing for the lean but it did drive a lot better.

i have tt and f150 spring swap with stock tires and it looks fine.

jealous of the price
 






shocks wont fix your lean you will need to fix the rear springs. I had similar measurements and new shocks did nothing for the lean but it did drive a lot better.

i have tt and f150 spring swap with stock tires and it looks fine.

jealous of the price

Thanks. I will look into the F-150 spring swap.
 






Review to date:

1. Poor tires (RESOLVED)
2. Oxidized headlamps (RESOLVED)
3. Ineffective windshield wipers (RESOLVED)
4. Weak 9007 bulbs (RESOLVED)
5. CD/Radio randomly turns off or on; CD player does not work
6. Center arm console extremely worn
7. Right front passenger door does not open or close, period (RESOLVED)
8. Front left driver side door handle feels loose (RESOLVED)
9. Rear left driver side door does not open or close, period (RESOLVED)
10. Rear bumper shows signs of rust
11. Step rails extremely corrosive/rusted out (RESOLVED)
12. 18 inch driver side windshield crack (RESOLVED)
13. Oil needs changed (RESOLVED)
14. Explorer "leans" slightly, suspension feels everything in the road, everything (RESOLVED)
15. Needs a new air filter (RESOLVED)
16. Needs new spark plugs
17. Low RPM metal rattle near the rear of the truck, sounds like an exhaust problem, perhaps the catalytic converter (RESOLVED)
18. Antenna is falling apart
19. Light behind the odometer is out
20. New shocks/struts (RESOLVED)
21. Left speaker does not work
22. Overhead Console Broken (RESOLVED)

Garbriel Ultra's feel great! All of the Motorcraft struts were blown!
 






Attempted to pass inspection three days ago; they failed me because a few of the diagnostics from within the computer were "reset" due to the new battery I installed. The check engine light has never been on since I've had the car. IMMEDIATELY afterwards the check engine light came on. Went to Autozone and the guy told me it needed a new MAF sensor. Instead, I took it off and cleaned it up well. The car runs much much better, especially at idle, but the light is still on... Any advice? I have to return it tomorrow, otherwise, I have to pay for a new inspection. They told me I had five days to return it and attempt to pass it after I put on a few miles to reset the computer.
 






you can reset the code by cycling the key back and forth. there is instructions in your manual. I think its 5 or 8 times from between key posion 3&4

I did this with my truck right before its air quality test and it passed and the light came on about 5 minutes after i was done.
 






Don't know about Canadian vehicles and air quality regulations there, but no such thing in the US. You can reset the CEL with a scanner, or simply by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. HOWEVER, that will not help you pass the emissions inspection (if required in your jurisdiction). The reason, as the OP found out, is that the reset turns on a 'monitors not ready' flag in the PCM, and this cannot be changed (at least not legally). Whatever is causing the CEL to illuminate needs to be diagnosed and corrected first. Then it usually takes a couple days of mixed-conditions driving for the monitors to get 'ready'. Sorry for the bad news!
BTW: I would take the Autozone guy's diagnosis with a large grain of salt. Next time you go there ask for the exact numeric trouble codes and post them here, if you still need help.

you can reset the code by cycling the key back and forth. there is instructions in your manual. I think its 5 or 8 times from between key posion 3&4

I did this with my truck right before its air quality test and it passed and the light came on about 5 minutes after i was done.
 






our test is a prong in the tail pipe and they only plug into the computer if the cel is on.

good luck hope you get a pass!
 






Well . . . go figure. The Shrek won't even stay running now - rough idle below 1K. If I hit the gas, she'll stay on for a while, but as soon as I let off it dies. Perhaps the fuel filter is clogged? Would that explain everything?
 






Well . . . go figure. The Shrek won't even stay running now - rough idle below 1K. If I hit the gas, she'll stay on for a while, but as soon as I let off it dies. Perhaps the fuel filter is clogged? Would that explain everything?

usually clogged fuel filter will be noticeable when you make a demand for more fuel, not less. so i don't think that's your problem. MAF, IAC maybe. try cleaning them both with the appropriate cleaners. is the CEL on?
 






usually clogged fuel filter will be noticeable when you make a demand for more fuel, not less. so i don't think that's your problem. MAF, IAC maybe. try cleaning them both with the appropriate cleaners. is the CEL on?

Yes, the CEL is on. I cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF spray. I will clean the IAC soon - confusing.
 






usually clogged fuel filter will be noticeable when you make a demand for more fuel, not less. so i don't think that's your problem. MAF, IAC maybe. try cleaning them both with the appropriate cleaners. is the CEL on?

As to the fuel filter, I thought the increase in demand for fuel created negative fuel pressure, thus enabling the fuel to more easily bypass whatever is clogging it. However, at idle, this isn't the case, whereas it is at "baseline." Thus, when the filter is clogged and you rev the engine up, you're make it more easy for the fuel to overcome the force inhibiting proper flow. . . That was my reasoning for the fuel filter speculation, but I don't work on cars . . .
 






As to your light behind your odo, you mean cluster? It's chicken to replace, you dont even need to solder squat, they just twist in and pull type.
 






If anyone interested how I cleaned up the headlamps, let me know - it took me only 30 minutes.

I use diamond-chrome truck box polish. takes 5 mins and gets every headlight ive ever tried it on looking like factory new. its only like 6 bucks for a bottle. beats payin out the ass for those junk headlight kits that rarely work and are very expensive.
 






Doesnt the gen 2 have struts in the front and leafs in the rear also when i put shocks on my ex it raised the back about 1 inch
 






Doesnt the gen 2 have struts in the front and leafs in the rear also when i put shocks on my ex it raised the back about 1 inch

second gens have shocks on all 4 corners. torsion bars in front and leaf springs in the rear. if you installed a set of rear shocks (w/out helper springs) and they raised the rear an inch something is very wrong as shocks have zero effect on ride height.
 






Just ordered a new Motorcraft MAF sensor, IAC valve and gasket, and a new filter. Guess we'll see. If this doesn't work, then I have a Ford Explorer for sale!
 






Just ordered a new Motorcraft MAF sensor, IAC valve and gasket, and a new filter. Guess we'll see. If this doesn't work, then I have a Ford Explorer for sale!

you had said the CEL was on. what was the code(s)?
 









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P0300 random misfires, p0170 and p01704 are lean codes. Replace the spark plugs. Noted you had that in your list earlier but not yet done. Use standard motorcraft or autolite finewire platinums, or coppers if you are going cheap and plan to replace again. Do not put in any of the splitfire, diamond fire, or other gimmick plugs. Check the wires for any cracks or burns while changing them out. Should resolve the misfire and will likely correct the lean as well. Right now the computer will be cutting the fuel supply to compensate for unburned fuel.
 






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