Just wanted to ask if this repair would work on a 2006 explorer with the transmission leaver in the centre consol. Is the blender located in the same place?
Hey BigRondo, gonna sound like a total noob, but where are the pictures? I can see your how to guide perfectly, but there aren't any pics...
Yet another huge thanks to Big Rondo. Without your help (and pictures) I'm not sure I would have ever found the darned actuator--or all the screws holding console, etc. There were also a couple moments where I might have decided I was on a fools errand if I didn't know that so many had succeeded (jiggling the actuator out, especially; I finally figured out that it needs to be moved up really high to get it out.) If someone with my big hands (I have to order Mechanix gloves in XXL) can do this, you can too. Doing some yoga before getting started might help, too.
If you're worried about cutting the dash, don't worry. Just as the picture shows, you have to really get down and look to see it after you're done. The one thing I wondered is just where to cut it. In my case, I started the cut about 2" from the firewall end of the piece, and the total cut was 4.5". But since it's all hidden so well, I don't think it makes much difference.
This went so well, I was inspired to tackle the clicking rear actuator too. That's an easier job, though it's more nerve racking (and tough on the fingers) pulling away all the trim pieces.
Thanks again!
Pictures are showing up for me. Check the settings on your computer. I know that others have had issues seeing the pictures when using work computers.
I'm having an issue in the front middle vent where only the driver side blows cold and both the middle and side passenger vents blow warm. Will this correct that issue?
thanks.
-Mike
You are correct sir, it was a work computer issue. Just checked on my phone and it loaded with the pics just fine. Should be good with my home laptop. Thanks again for everything!
Thanks so much for this post. So glad I found it. Instructions were spot on, and I somehow got the actuator out without having to cut away that section under the dash. Part cost me $54, so I saved over $700 doing this repair myself. Awesome!
Just wanted to give a big thanks to BigRondo for this writeup. I did the job on a 2005 Mountaineer over the weekend, and your instructions were spot on.
Was able to do it without cutting into the dash. Was able to get at the two lower screws on the actuator with a 5/16 box end wrench (Why standard when everything else is metric?), the upper rear with an 8mm socket/extension. For some reason Ford/Mercury didn't bother with the forward upper screw when they assembled this vehicle which made life a whole lot easier!
Only thing I can add is that it does make the job a bit easier to remove the front driver's seat. Had to pull it anyways to fix another problem with the vehicle blowing fuses. Turns out that the insulation on the wires for the lumbar support switch were chaffing against the seat frame and wore through.
Anyway, thanks again!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. My daughter has a 2003 Explorer and this same problem popped up. The actuator from the Ford dealer here in South Bend was $85.00. Been in the low 30's and 20's here so the problem needed to be fixed. My daughter and I tackled this problem last night and with her doing the work and my scrolling the pictures on the computer she managed to complete this job in 2 hours which included a thorough vacuuming of the carpet aroung the console. Didn't need to cut anything and the upper rear screw was non-existant. She felt great about being able to do the fix and I'm really proud of her. I couldn't help much as I have severe neuropathy in my hands from some chemo I am taking.
Again, thanks for the excellent instructions.
Joe Bogucki