1st Gen 4wd to 95-97 Ranger Brake Swap Info/Parts List

[jd4242]

I'm not sure about '93 EXPLORER. I compared '93 Ranger, to '95 Ranger. According to Rock Auto (and the numerous manufacturers of m/c they offer), they are definitely different part numbers. There are further breakdowns for w/ or w/o ABS and w/ or w/o cruise control (not sure why on that one?)
.

95+ has a abs plug on the mc same with the cruise control.its moved from the brake pedal to mc.you want one without any options

 

[Carguy3J]

95+ has a abs plug on the mc same with the cruise control.its moved from the brake pedal to mc.you want one without any options

Or... what if I don't want the one with NO options? I don't care about cruise control, and would never bother to add it. However, I've started to have this crazy idea about maybe adding 4wheel ABS.

A.) Could I buy the '95 mc w/ ABS, and simply not plug in the ABS "plug" for now? Is the M/C itself the same?

B.) It would seem that this is still a fairly simple, stand-alone ABS system with no connection to the ecm. Is that correct? If so, It should be do-able, between new parts and a donor vehicle, to add 4wheel ABS to my '93 Ranger. I'm not sure its really worth it, but it is an interesting idea....

Oddly enough, my truck does have a sensor in the top of the rear diff, but it does NOT have ABS of any kind. That sensor is plugged into the harness, and it goes somewhere, but I see no ABS components under the hood, or connected to any of the brake lines. Is it possible someone removed all the ABS components in the past?

When I did it I did rear disc at the same time.I have always preached that you need to run a different mc (95)when doing the rear swap.I did it for the same reasons you listed.also I do have some technical info somewhere about it.its not just about volume but something like pre-pressure or stroke length of the mc plunger and how much is sent to where and timing. I forget the hard facts.the dual pistons don't equal much more than the single if I remember but the rear is totally different. May be why some get away with pre95 for just front swap.

All I do know is that if you do the rear swap the 95mc works perfectly and does feel different. The pre-95 will work but its just not right.if you do it with pre 95mc and compare the life and feeling your understand, compared to a 95mc truck.

To me I would use a 95+ ranger mc for the front swap and a explorer 95mc when doing rear or both at same time.

So, the '95 Ranger M/C will bolt right up to my '93 firewall/brake booster, and require no mods to my existing pedal setup/pushrod, correct?

Also, what are your thoughts here:

I was leaning towards the Centric C-TEK drilled and slotted rotors (which are listed as rear ABS only anyway). Any thought on these? I put a lot of weight in the truck, so I thought maybe drilled/slotted would help with heat dissipation. Has the old issue of drilled rotors cracking been resolved? Should I just stick to a good quality "regular" rotor?

 

[jd4242]

Or... what if I don't want the one with NO options? I don't care about cruise control, and would never bother to add it. However, I've started to have this crazy idea about maybe adding 4wheel ABS.

A.) Could I buy the '95 mc w/ ABS, and simply not plug in the ABS "plug" for now? Is the M/C itself the same?

B.) It would seem that this is still a fairly simple, stand-alone ABS system with no connection to the ecm. Is that correct? If so, It should be do-able, between new parts and a donor vehicle, to add 4wheel ABS to my '93 Ranger. I'm not sure its really worth it, but it is an interesting idea....

Oddly enough, my truck does have a sensor in the top of the rear diff, but it does NOT have ABS of any kind. That sensor is plugged into the harness, and it goes somewhere, but I see no ABS components under the hood, or connected to any of the brake lines. Is it possible someone removed all the ABS components in the past?



So, the '95 Ranger M/C will bolt right up to my '93 firewall/brake booster, and require no mods to my existing pedal setup/pushrod, correct?

Also, what are your thoughts here:

Adding 4 wheel would be more involved. You probably have rear abs.the abs and proportioning valve is under the driver seat in the frame rail.you should be able to just plug the hole for abs in the mc.for cruise you don't need it in the mc.the earlier models didn't use it.it plugged in at the brake pedal, so when you hit the brakes it kicks off.

Yes the mc bolts right up, same lines and all for the WITHOUT abs and cruise models. I "belive" the abs 95mc the lines are switched..

All drilled rotors can crack, its what the rotor is made out of that makes it less prone to cracking.just slotted is the best rotor you can buy.with that said I run R1 standard drilled and slotted on my ex and haven't noticed them cracked yet, have had them for years and used pretty hard.my explorer is VERY HEAVY. ..on my ranger I run R1 drilled and slotted but their premium rotors, made out of different materials. Plus I have 12"front and rear and use the CRAP outa them and they seem to have held up so far.when or if they do crack I will be going to ppremium slotted, the drilled and slotted just look so good I decided to risk it.

 

[Carguy3J]

Adding 4 wheel would be more involved. You probably have rear abs.the abs and proportioning valve is under the driver seat in the frame rail.you should be able to just plug the hole for abs in the mc.for cruise you don't need it in the mc.the earlier models didn't use it.it plugged in at the brake pedal, so when you hit the brakes it kicks off.

Oh. Now that you mention it, I think I do recall seeing the proportioning valve under their, behind the fuel filter. I still don't think I have even rear ABS though, or at least it doesn't work, as I can lock up the rear wheels if I want to.

Yes the mc bolts right up, same lines and all for the WITHOUT abs and cruise models. I "belive" the abs 95mc the lines are switched..

Oh. Well never mind then. No need to make more work for a "novelty" idea. I'll stick with the non-abs m/c then

All drilled rotors can crack, its what the rotor is made out of that makes it less prone to cracking.just slotted is the best rotor you can buy.with that said I run R1 standard drilled and slotted on my ex and haven't noticed them cracked yet, have had them for years and used pretty hard.my explorer is VERY HEAVY. ..on my ranger I run R1 drilled and slotted but their premium rotors, made out of different materials. Plus I have 12"front and rear and use the CRAP outa them and they seem to have held up so far.when or if they do crack I will be going to ppremium slotted, the drilled and slotted just look so good I decided to risk it.

I went and looked at the R1 website. Yes, they say their premium rotors are G3500 iron which they claim is better. However, they only offer the e-series for the 4wheel drive '95 Ranger, which is the same G3000 metal as many other quality rotors. (Including the C-Tek drilled/slotted I saw on RockAuto) I guess since you are 2wd, you have some more options. The '95-'97 Ranger 4wd is a sort of oddball orphan, with not much available, outside of stock replacement. Makes sense I guess, since there are very limited applications.

Its weird; performance issues aside, just visually, for some reason ONLY drilled, or ONLY slotted just bothers my eyes/brain. It only looks right if it has both! Its stupid, with no real basis in reality. It just bothers me.... Plus they do perform different functions. While slotted may provide some fade resistance by venting gas out from under the pad, as well as allowing for the escape of water and debris, it doesn't add much to the cooling of the rotor, whereas the cross-drilling does. I do see that the holes are chamfered/countersunk. That should help to prevent cracking. I guess I'm just waffling on whether or not fancy rotors have a place in my not-so-fancy budget!

Are there any brands of drilled/slotted rotors I should stay away from?

 

[Scott B.]

Master Cylinder

To summarize:

On my '93 Ranger (and 1st Gen Explorers), with 95 Ranger front brakes and rear disc brakes, a master cylinder for a '95 Explorer should work just fine - right?

Questions:

What are the "Cruise Control" and "Proportioning Valve" features of some '95 mcs?

The one without the above features looks like the mc in my '93.

 

[jd4242]

To summarize:

On my '93 Ranger (and 1st Gen Explorers), with 95 Ranger front brakes and rear disc brakes, a master cylinder for a '95 Explorer should work just fine - right?

Questions:

What are the "Cruise Control" and "Proportioning Valve" features of some '95 mcs?

The one without the above features looks like the mc in my '93.

Thats what I run.it would be ideal to find one that's setup for dual piston front and rear disc but they do not make one to my knowledge that doesn't come with a proportion valve in it..

95+ the cruise control ""disarm/kick off" switch is in the MC.before 95 the switch is on your brake pedal, you do not need one in the MC.this switch kicks the cruise control OFF when you hit the brakes.

Pre 95 the proportion valve was in the frame for RWABS, on 4wabs I ""belive its built into the 4 wabs unit..either way you don't need it.the proper 95 Mc should look JUST like the one you replace..

Again this is just from mine and a couple other people's experience, there are others that don't switch it out and say its just fine.to me for as cheap as MC are its worth it, also gives you a good reason to flush the system with new fluid.very over looked!!

 

[Carguy3J]

Thats what I run.it would be ideal to find one that's setup for dual piston front and rear disc but they do not make one to my knowledge that doesn't come with a proportion valve in it..

95+ the cruise control ""disarm/kick off" switch is in the MC.before 95 the switch is on your brake pedal, you do not need one in the MC.this switch kicks the cruise control OFF when you hit the brakes.

Pre 95 the proportion valve was in the frame for RWABS, on 4wabs I ""belive its built into the 4 wabs unit..either way you don't need it.the proper 95 Mc should look JUST like the one you replace..

Again this is just from mine and a couple other people's experience, there are others that don't switch it out and say its just fine.to me for as cheap as MC are its worth it, also gives you a good reason to flush the system with new fluid.very over looked!!

I looked a little closer at the part listings on Rock Auto. I see now the extra "port" facing up, for the cruise switch.
Comparing a '95 no cruise, no 4WABS to the '93 MC, the piston is 1/16" larger, as discussed.
The "outlets" for the brake lines are in the same location and same size. I did see two differences that may be an issue.

1.)Something listed as "Pushrod Depth" is slightly different. '93 is 1.45" The '95 is 1.40" Now granted, .05 is probably no big deal, or is it?

2.) Of greater concern, the brake boosters are different, from '93 and '95 and the angle of the reservoir, between '93 and '95 appear to be noticeably different, implying that either the relationship (angle) of the boosters to the firewall are different, and/or the mounting / angle of the M/C to the booster(s) are different? The '93 reservoir appears to be angled much more steeply downward, towards the front of the vehicle, when the m/c is held horizontal VS the "flatter" pitch of the reservoir on the '95 M/C

'95 no cruise M/C:

'93 M/C:

'95 Booster:

'93 Booster:

 

[jd4242]

Explorers don't look like the pic you posted and I didn't remember my ranger looking like that but it did.I just looked back at my old pics.I don't know why its slanted like that at all it doesn't sit level in the truck, go look at yours.you can't fill it up completely without it overflowing. I can tell you a 95 sits perfect on a 93 though. .also don't think a .05 makes much difference and if so you could adjust the push rod if you really wanted to

Bad pic but you can see it doesn't sit level. ..94

95 mc on 94

 

[Carguy3J]

Yeah, you're right. My current m/c in the '93 doesn't sit quite level; although yours appeared to be at a steeper angle (the "old" one). Maybe its just an optical illusion?
Did you keep the older booster, or was that changed too?

What's the solenoid bolted to the booster? A line lock/roll control?

Is the blue on the m/c paint or powder coat? I'm putting a new water pump on soon too, and I hate the idea of my fresh shiny aluminum parts corroding immediately. Same would apply to a new m/c.

It also looks like your truck is the same "green" as my Ranger. "Poly Calypso"

 

[jd4242]

Yeah, you're right. My current m/c in the '93 doesn't sit quite level; although yours appeared to be at a steeper angle (the "old" one). Maybe its just an optical illusion?
Did you keep the older booster, or was that changed too?

What's the solenoid bolted to the booster? A line lock/roll control?

Is the blue on the m/c paint or powder coat? I'm putting a new water pump on soon too, and I hate the idea of my fresh shiny aluminum parts corroding immediately. Same would apply to a new m/c.

It also looks like your truck is the same "green" as my Ranger. "Poly Calypso"

Think its just a bad picture its definitely not level. I kept the stock pre 95 booster on both trucks.

Nailed it, its a line lock

Its paint, old ford blue with color effects top coat (changes color in light)

Yea its green for now
We better get back on topic now, starting to stray..lol

 

[Scott B.]

...

95+ the cruise control ""disarm/kick off" switch is in the MC.before 95 the switch is on your brake pedal, you do not need one in the MC.this switch kicks the cruise control OFF when you hit the brakes.

Pre 95 the proportion valve was in the frame for RWABS, on 4wabs I ""belive its built into the 4 wabs unit..either way you don't need it.the proper 95 Mc should look JUST like the one you replace..

That's what I thought - thanks for the confirmation.

A side note - I am running my original '93 master cylinder. I flush the brake system every 15,000 miles - keeps out the rust.

Flushing the system is very important, especially for those of us that go off road (water crossings, etc.)

I am going to upgrade my mc when I install these '95 brakes - probably about time. This looks like a good project for next month!

 

[Carguy3J]

I just called R1 Concepts. They DO have the premium rotors, for the '95 Ranger 4x4. It just didn't show up on the website. However, they quoted me a price of $270, for the (2) rotors!!!! Are they out of their minds? That's insane. As I explained to the guy on the phone, I could burn through 2 sets of the cheaper e-series (which would take a couple of years at least) at that price. No wonder they aren't listed on the website. They probably never sell them.

I'll definitely be going with something else.

 

[jd4242]

I just called R1 Concepts. They DO have the premium rotors, for the '95 Ranger 4x4. It just didn't show up on the website. However, they quoted me a price of $270, for the (2) rotors!!!! Are they out of their minds? That's insane. As I explained to the guy on the phone, I could burn through 2 sets of the cheaper e-series (which would take a couple of years at least) at that price. No wonder they aren't listed on the website. They probably never sell them.

I'll definitely be going with something else.

Yea the premier line is costly. Think I paid like $350ish for my front onesbut on my application I didn't wanna risk it, wanted the best looking and best rotor I could buy.fyi they will be having a big sale coming up.

 

[Scott B.]

I've thought long and hard about using drilled and slotted rotors - I could use the additional braking power, as my truck is 5000 lbs empty.

That being said, I am very leery about using chinese-made brake parts. I know, most of the name brand products are made overseas too, but they have quality control standards. I do not know what the qc standards are for R1. After reading many negative reviews (yes, they are a few years old) I am a little concerned.

I think I am going to run Raybestos rotors. Not drilled and slotted, but a known quality product.

 

[jd4242]

I've thought long and hard about using drilled and slotted rotors - I could use the additional braking power, as my truck is 5000 lbs empty.

That being said, I am very leery about using chinese-made brake parts. I know, most of the name brand products are made overseas too, but they have quality control standards. I do not know what the qc standards are for R1. After reading many negative reviews (yes, they are a few years old) I am a little concerned.

I think I am going to run Raybestos rotors. Not drilled and slotted, but a known quality product.

I've run R1 on every vehicle I owned and never had a problem. I still run their Eline on my explorer and haven't had a problem. I would imagine that people that do have issues run their Eline when they should have ran the Premium line.they have had great customer service with me and offer a warranty.

Drilled and slotted aren't for everyone or every application.also of course there is some other really good companies out there also but good rotors are gonna cost you period. .

Fyi if you 4x4 a lot its not a good idea to run drilled or slotted rotors, just plain solid. They also will have the most braking power when not HOT..slotted will be second and drilled really is just for looks.yes they will run cooler but you loose surface area so only good idea if the rotors are over sized and or you have wayyy more brakes than you need

All this really should be discussed in another thread though, really trashing up this thread and getting away from main topicjust trying to respect the OP.

 

[Carguy3J]

All this really should be discussed in another thread though, really trashing up this thread and getting away from main topicjust trying to respect the OP.

I disagree. If you want the short version, read the first couple of posts, then stop. The rest of this IS all related to the brake upgrade this thread is about. It puts a bunch of related "details" and additional information in one handy thread, instead of being scattered all over the place, only to be asked/answered 50 times.

 

[Scott B.]

I just ordered a new MC - a Raybestos MC390269.

It is for '95-'97 Rangers and similar year Explorers. I think this one is plumbed properly for both the front brake upgrade (dual piston caliper) and rear disk brakes.

jd - thanks for the opinion on rotors. BTW, I also think this discussion is OK in this thread, as it does pertain to the original topic. Talking about these additional "low level" details listed here should make it easier for people in the future to find this info.

 

[Tbars4]

..A little added extra..

..I'm running the R1 E-line drilled and slotted on my 95 Ranger and it is way more stopping power than my truck needs (and it's usually carrying 600-1000# fulltime) so I never went and upgraded to premium.

..If you shop their ebay listing you can get the front rotors and premium pads for like 150 pl tx..

..I also have the rear disc upgrade in which I also run their rotors and pads on..

..Do yourself a favor and change the races to the Timken races that comes with your bearings as I had a failure of both fronts races at the same time and it ws clear the races are chino junk...

..I also have some raybestos otc pads I'm going to run when the fronts finally wear out..The middle grade pads from R1 were great but when they didn't have the same product for the rears I opted to try their lower grade pads..:thumbdwn:..They didn't last at all = pos pads..

I hope this helps answer some more questions for ya'all..:biggthump

Edit:

From my receipt when bought rotors at their shop using the ebay discount..
________________________________________
jtbrakeparts 1995 Ford Ranger 4wd (4 whl abs) FRONT D/S BRAKE ROTORS

jtbrakeparts Front Posi Quiet Ceramic/Semi-metallic Extended Wear
________________________________________

front rotors are P/N EDS.65050 Drilled Slotted E-Line Brake Rotor

Pads are = Posi-Quiet Extended Wear

 

[jd4242]

I just ordered a new MC - a Raybestos MC390269.

It is for '95-'97 Rangers and similar year Explorers. I think this one is plumbed properly for both the front brake upgrade (dual piston caliper) and rear disk brakes.

jd - thanks for the opinion on rotors. BTW, I also think this discussion is OK in this thread, as it does pertain to the original topic. Talking about these additional "low level" details listed here should make it easier for people in the future to find this info.

The ranger and explorer 95-97 should have different part numbers.rangers didn't come with disc rear brakes those years

..A little added extra..

..I'm running the R1 E-line drilled and slotted on my 95 Ranger and it is way more stopping power than my truck needs (and it's usually carrying 600-1000# fulltime) so I never went and upgraded to premium.

..If you shop their ebay listing you can get the front rotors and premium pads for like 150 pl tx..

..I also have the rear disc upgrade in which I also run their rotors and pads on..

..Do yourself a favor and change the races to the Timken races that comes with your bearings as I had a failure of both fronts races at the same time and it ws clear the races are chino junk...

..I also have some raybestos otc pads I'm going to run when the fronts finally wear out..The middle grade pads from R1 were great but when they didn't have the same product for the rears I opted to try their lower grade pads..:thumbdwn:..They didn't last at all = pos pads..

I hope this helps answer some more questions for ya'all..:biggthump

Should have mentioned I run timenkin bearings and races also.I run their semi metallic posi quite pads and love them.they are not great pads but warm up very fast and don't fad that bad or produce much dust at all.

 

[Scott B.]

The ranger and explorer 95-97 should have different part numbers.rangers didn't come with disc rear brakes those years
...

You're right - I expected to see different part numbers also. But they show the same part number.

What I think this means is the rear disk calipers are designed to utilize the fluid flow/pressure coming from the stock MC. Not hard to do, and this way Ford can one less part number.